Replaced Carb on Pressure washer, Now its running away! What do?

Got a free, barely used pressure washer (excell? 3100). Carb sat and was fucked up beyound belief. Cleaned most of it but the actual float mechanism was beyond saving.

Bought a replacement carb. Same set up and roughly the same dimensions.

The machine seems to be running very rich. The original plug didnt look too bad so I left it in. After starting, running, and seeing it run I pulled the plug again. Tons of soot/carbon. Fucker is trying to run away or hastily beat itself to death unchoked.

Feel pretty sure I put all the gaskets on correctly and in the right place (seemed pretty obvious, but I am an idiot so..).

I just dont know enough. If the float was set too high could that be it? Gas isnt running out the air filter or anything like that.

Any help/suggestions is appreciated.

 

If you still have the old carb, turn each adjustment screw in. Count how many turns until it bottoms out.
Then on the new carb, Turn the adjustment screws all the way in. Then back them out the same amount as the old screws turned in.

 

Will do next. probably need to just try things out and see what it does. Biggest issue is lack of free time.
Also, while the carbs are similar, I dont expect my replacement to be a perfect 1:1 part also. Honestly the original carb is already a cheap chinesium part lol.

 

What engine is on it? Honda, Briggs, clone of something?

 

Man, I honestly dont know. Im pretty sure its a clone. Ive read its a Briggs, but the lack of any kind of real info makes me believe its a clone. MAT (midwest Air Technologies) makes them. Im sure youve heard of them! lol.

Its not some well built/great machine. Dont plan on it lasting forever, but its still pretty new, and whatever is going on with the carb is almost certainly the problem.

 

All I could find said "OEM Branded" engine.
But they look like they are a Powerhouse. Which is based on a Honda.

https://assets.northerntool.com/products/750/documents/manuals/750120.pdf

 

a picture/link to the carb you're working with could be helpful as well.

i've done a few snow blowers, about one a year, my SOP is to swap the carb for a picture-perfect chinese copy(cheaper than the gasket rebuild kits), change the plug, then check for magneto output/spark, and send it. every chinese carb so far has needed low and high idle adjustment to run correctly. i really just run the screws in/out till i get it running the way i want. most times, they're at least 5-6 turns away from ideal.