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Replace or Rebuild my R150F?

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by AKsavanaman, Dec 16, 2017.

?

Replace or Rebuild?

  1. Have the shop rebuild

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
  2. Do this thing myself

    33.3%
  3. Buy a rebuilt from Marlin

    66.7%
  1. Dec 16, 2017 at 6:12 PM
    #1
    AKsavanaman

    AKsavanaman [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Lower 48 :( U.P MI
    Vehicle:
    01' Xtra Cab TRD, Kings, JBAs, Dakars and 295's on F5
    Kings, JBA's, Dakars, Prinsu Rack, ARB, Trail gear sliders... and rust
    So tax returns are around the corner... (If you're like me with a bunch of Gremlins running around that you can milk the Gov't for) and one of the major maintenance items is my R150F...

    I've replaced my shifter bushing with one from marlin, switched to MT90... But I'm thinking it's just been neglected before I owned it... Rode hard and put away wet if you know what I mean!

    I've got the typical whine, hard shifts into 1st and 2nd and pretty sure my rear main seal is leaking a tad... She hasn't given me too much trouble, but I want a fresh start @ almost 180k.

    Question is... Do I....
    A) pay someone to rebuild her with OEM parts... I'll pull the tranny myself
    B) Buy a shop press... Learn something new and DIY this bitch
    C) Buy once cry once and pick up a whole new tranny from marlin crawler.

    This project is a few months out, but wanted to get my research outa he way. Thanks TW!
     
  2. Dec 16, 2017 at 6:25 PM
    #2
    onakat

    onakat Well-Known Member

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    well, it's always fun to do things yourself and learn new stuff, but of course, you must have the tools, equipments and skills to do it (and the time too)

    Try to source the parts you will need and write down how much it will cost you in the end. If significantly cheaper to DIY and you're confident you can do it, then DIY :)
     
  3. Dec 16, 2017 at 6:57 PM
    #3
    AKsavanaman

    AKsavanaman [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Lower 48 :( U.P MI
    Vehicle:
    01' Xtra Cab TRD, Kings, JBAs, Dakars and 295's on F5
    Kings, JBA's, Dakars, Prinsu Rack, ARB, Trail gear sliders... and rust
    I haven't researched the process very much... But other than a press and some pullers... Any other special tools needed? Mind you I'm a competent at home mechanic... But this would be the most intricate job I've done... And I don't have a press or pullers
     
  4. Dec 16, 2017 at 7:13 PM
    #4
    eon_blue

    eon_blue Okayest Member

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    Are you sure it's the transmission causing your hard shifts? Could be dry or bad u-joints, or an issue with the drive shaft. These manual transmissions are stout, they may have their quirks but they don't typically need to be replaced or rebuilt unless tragically neglected/abused.
     
  5. Dec 16, 2017 at 8:57 PM
    #5
    AKsavanaman

    AKsavanaman [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Lower 48 :( U.P MI
    Vehicle:
    01' Xtra Cab TRD, Kings, JBAs, Dakars and 295's on F5
    Kings, JBA's, Dakars, Prinsu Rack, ARB, Trail gear sliders... and rust
    99% sure it's a combo of throw out bearing, shift fork and syncros... I've only put 20k on the truck and have no clue about the service history...which is why I've slowly been replacing things.

    All u- joints except the cardan have been replaced by yours truly, as well as the center support bearing.
     
  6. Dec 16, 2017 at 9:27 PM
    #6
    arctic04trd

    arctic04trd VA7XTE

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    I voted the marlin unit, but you are handy AF apperntly haha. If it isn't your daily, I would do it yourself.

    Kinda like with my regear, I would have done it myself for the experience, but no time with work right now.
     
  7. Dec 16, 2017 at 9:48 PM
    #7
    eon_blue

    eon_blue Okayest Member

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    Sounds like it has more to do with the clutch/clutch pedal assembly...replace the trans and you'd still have those issues (excluding syncros). I have the dreaded throwout bearing issue too, chirps like crazy but I've just learned to ignore it lol. My clutch pedal creaks and pops sometimes but it usually gets better when I hit it with some TriFlow lube.

    The syncros could be an issue but I think those get misdiagnosed a lot...it would take quite a bit of abuse or really high mileage to damage them. Not saying it wouldn't be nice to have the peace of mind of a newly rebuilt trans; I hear Marlin Crawler does a good job with their rebuilds if you go that route
     
  8. Dec 16, 2017 at 10:00 PM
    #8
    AKsavanaman

    AKsavanaman [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Lower 48 :( U.P MI
    Vehicle:
    01' Xtra Cab TRD, Kings, JBAs, Dakars and 295's on F5
    Kings, JBA's, Dakars, Prinsu Rack, ARB, Trail gear sliders... and rust
    Didn't think about the clutch, but she hasn't given me any problems... engages with just a feather of a touch at the top end of travel. The pedal itself.. well she likes to squeek and creek every so often... but i just throw white lithium grease down there every so often to quiet things down.

    You know, I just thought about this... if I could source a good used R150F (or a whole parts truck for that matter!) I could take my time building it instead of rushing to get the DD TuRD back up and running. That's why i was contemplating the Marlin one, i could have the tranny out and back in in one day.

    What complicates the matter is that I'm up here in AK... where plentiful parts and cheap shipping are dreams and wishes! I probably wouldn't recoup much of the core return due to shipping costs.
     
  9. Dec 16, 2017 at 10:18 PM
    #9
    slander

    slander Honorary Crawl Boi

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    I voted Marlin, since leave it alone wasn't an option. I contemplated rebuilding mine when it blew up on me, but opted not to and bought a rebuilt Marlin unit since it was only 200 more than a junkyard trans runs around here. The rebuild process doesn't look hard, but it looks like there are a ton of tricks to it not explained in the FSM and decided fuck that.

    Get an FSM first and review the process and look at the trouble shooting guide in the trans section.
     
  10. Dec 17, 2017 at 7:36 AM
    #10
    Kiloyard

    Kiloyard Road Warrior

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    Toytec Boss/Eibach Coils & Deaver J59's
    I had my transmission rebuilt by the dealership at 150k and it was an expensive, stupid mistake.

    Dealership said it was a bad 2nd-3rd gear synchro. I let them do the transmission and clutch and they had it for a week. In less than 1000 miles (and during an out of state road trip) the gears started grinding. I took it back to get it fixed and they charged me for the ruined reverse gear, as the 1st-Rev. synchro had died. Come to find out the tech they assigned the job had never worked on a transmission before, it was his first one. Great - that's what I get for my $110 /hr.

    Second rebuild worked out a lot better as they put an experienced guy on the job this time, but it has never shifted as smooth as it did prior to having work done on it. It cost me $3000 and two weeks in a rental car, and a lot of hassle. I still regret it to this day. I could have just bought a new transmission instead!

    Side note: when I went to pick up the truck from the dealership they rolled it out to the pick-up line and handed me the keys. I took a look under the truck and found the cross member that holds in the transmission hanging loose/unbolted on one side. I was furious. The service manager offered me some free oil change coupons. I never went back to that shop to redeem them.

    @AKsavanaman - FYI the website says they require a 3 month lead-time to build your transmission.
     
    Last edited: Dec 17, 2017
  11. Dec 17, 2017 at 9:35 AM
    #11
    AKsavanaman

    AKsavanaman [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Lower 48 :( U.P MI
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    01' Xtra Cab TRD, Kings, JBAs, Dakars and 295's on F5
    Kings, JBA's, Dakars, Prinsu Rack, ARB, Trail gear sliders... and rust
    Yup just saw that, since mine is still functional without too much fuss I'm not worried about time... price even with core charge is very good considering you get rebuilt internals and can add their short throw shifter on it ($2100, which includes the 500 core). I wonder if you bought their 1200lbs clutch at the same time if they would install it for ya?

    Screenshot_20171217-082655.jpg
     
  12. Dec 17, 2017 at 11:15 AM
    #12
    Kiloyard

    Kiloyard Road Warrior

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    Well if you order it during the holiday season you get 10% off, not bad! By the time they build it and put it on a boat to Alaska you'll be ready to cash that govt check. Although I think Marlin charged me immediately then took a month to get me merchandise.

    I just installed the short throw shift seat/lever on my truck yesterday and it has changed the feel quite a bit! I haven't driven a lot of vehicles to make comparisons, but this feels more industrial. Original felt smoother, but I really like the way the lever pops into place now and you know it's engaged.
     
  13. Dec 17, 2017 at 12:12 PM
    #13
    AKsavanaman

    AKsavanaman [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Kings, JBA's, Dakars, Prinsu Rack, ARB, Trail gear sliders... and rust
    Shipping isn't terrible, for small things I usually pay $50 to put it on the barge in Seattle.
     
  14. Dec 17, 2017 at 12:28 PM
    #14
    slander

    slander Honorary Crawl Boi

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    That statement right there confirms you would be 10,000% over your head rebuilding the trans, and probibly swapping it for that matter.
     
    Wulf likes this.
  15. Dec 17, 2017 at 12:54 PM
    #15
    AKsavanaman

    AKsavanaman [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Kings, JBA's, Dakars, Prinsu Rack, ARB, Trail gear sliders... and rust
    So... Wait... You're saying lug nuts aren't on my engine and the fly wheel isn't a part on a plane???

    Well, seeing haven't done this before... Nor have I done the research... You're right I am. But I also never replaced my brakes, or timing belt, or u joints, or valve cover gaskets... Or removed everything on my rear end.... Until I did! So I'll counter your 10,000% with just a tad over 50% ;)
     
    Last edited: Dec 17, 2017
    osterhagen and Kiloyard like this.
  16. Dec 17, 2017 at 1:08 PM
    #16
    slander

    slander Honorary Crawl Boi

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    How can Marlin pre install your clutch?
     
  17. Dec 17, 2017 at 1:16 PM
    #17
    AKsavanaman

    AKsavanaman [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Lower 48 :( U.P MI
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    01' Xtra Cab TRD, Kings, JBAs, Dakars and 295's on F5
    Kings, JBA's, Dakars, Prinsu Rack, ARB, Trail gear sliders... and rust
    I didn't claim to know the process is all I'm saying (if this is grade school knowledge, I'm sorry) but don't assume I'm an incompitent idiot and can't figure it out:thumbsup:
     
  18. Dec 17, 2017 at 1:21 PM
    #18
    slander

    slander Honorary Crawl Boi

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    Well for one the clutch isn't physically attached to the trans.
     
  19. Dec 17, 2017 at 2:41 PM
    #19
    AKsavanaman

    AKsavanaman [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Lower 48 :( U.P MI
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    01' Xtra Cab TRD, Kings, JBAs, Dakars and 295's on F5
    Kings, JBA's, Dakars, Prinsu Rack, ARB, Trail gear sliders... and rust
    Alrighty, clutch disk is sandwiched between flywheel and pressure plate... Pressure plate is engaged via throwout bearing.... I thought pressure plate and clutch were attached to trans.... My bad... But I learned something eh?
     
    osterhagen likes this.

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