Removing your headliner and insulating/sound deadening

Good to know that the Noico has held up so far in the roof. I have a box of it left over and been wanting to do this for a while now. I've also used

$95 Vehicle Van Car Truck SUV RV Insulation Kit (100 Sq. Ft Insulation, 25' Foil Tape) Heat and Sound Automotive Insulation for Restoration Projects

EZ Cool insulation in the past with good results when used on top of a deadner like Noico.

 

I know this thread is dominantly in regards to 2nd gens, I did use some of the 3rd Gen information posted in it for my headliner removal / sound deadening project.

Some of the 3rd gen people mentioned they had issues removing some of the "headliner clips / caps" and in some cases damaged them. I took mine off (2018 Access Cab) with out too much problem. I have attached some photos below to give you a better idea what I found. The clip removal tool in the image was immensely helpful.

 

Looks like you broke a tab. (Pic#5) Knowing where those are is half the battle.

 

Hmmmm, maybe and I didn't even realize it. It snapped back into place okay and has held up since (i.e. has not popped off). When I look Ican't tell the difference but the interior is so dark in that truck it's like a big black hole...

 

Has anybody had any issues with the deadening material falling off from gravity? Is the adhesive provided strong?

 

I have not had any issued since the original writing of this thread using the materials listed. I've done 2 separate installs using the same materials and neither has failed. The key to proper adhesion, regardless of the material you use will always be prep. I cleaned the bare sheetmetal with acetone and followed with alcohol to make sure there were no contaminates. I also used the roller to install and apply even pressure in a criss-cross pattern to the deadener instead of my bare hands.

 

I second what @GHOST SHIP said. Prep is key. I used rubbing alcohol on the sheet metal and have had no issues in three years

 

Plus rolling out the bubbles so that they don’t grow.

 

I just did mod using the detailed instructions found on page 11 of this thread. By far, my favorite mod I've done to my 3rd gen. I have solar panels and maxtraxs secured to a Baja Rack flat rack. Before this, when reaching 65mph, it would sound like a dang wind tunnel inside the cab. After installing the Noico, it's easily cut down the noise by half, if not more. Highly recommend if you're going to install or have roof racks.

 

I am in the middle of this, too. I simply disconnected all the wires instead of pulling them off the head liner. It's pretty easy; but, you have to remove the rear passenger trim as there is one connector behind it).

I took the liner out of the truck out through the passenger door; but, I did crease/crack it in the narrow section at the back of the sunroof opening... even after having removed all the seats, center console, and flipping the gear shifting mechanism (auto) mostly out of the way. (If you move the shifter further out of the way and move the parking brake lever, you won't have to flex it as much as I did.)

Next step for me is to fit some mass loaded vinyl. You have to make cut outs for several of the protruding standoffs for it to lay flat-ish. I hope it's not too heavy... you may want to use 1/2 lb MLV. It may not be worth the trouble; but, I'm all in on this.

FYI: I visited the factory. Wonder how they get the headliner in? Three people easily put it in through the windshield opening.

 

Weekend #1 I took my '14 down to nothing. Headliner, door panels, back panel, floor mat. Sound deadened everything ... also insulated the roof. Five years later I swear it is quieter than my wife's '18 Camry.

She won't let me touch her car ....

 

Just finished installing Noico sound deadening on the doors, back panel, and roof. Blocks out a good deal of road noise (maybe 50-60%?). Still getting some noise in through the door cracks around the weather seal...especially at highway speeds. Any ideas on how to minimize this?

Note: was pleasantly surprised to see that the truck's whole floor came sound deadened from factory..maybe as part of the JBL sound upgrade?

 

Air is the most direct path for noise so try some porous foam blocks in the rear wall cab vent then add a layer of lower density insulation over the noico to absorb more sound energy. The glass still transmits a good deal of noise though.

 

Where are the actual rear wall cab vents located? I just noico'd as much of the rear wall as I could but didn't see the vents. Are they beneath that middle bar?

Also going to slap some noico on under the hood...

 

I don’t know what the heat rating is for the butyl from Noico, but I’d strongly recommend a test patch before you go all out. I’d actually recommend against it entirely but if you’re set on doing it at least test it before hand. You’ll be fighting heat and gravity and the chance for the sound deafening to peel is high under the hood. Best case scenario it holds and you’re good. Worst case scenario, that shit falls off completely and onto your exhaust manifold and you burn the truck down. Middle ground is a gooey mess all tangled in your serpentine belt and pulleys.

 

I saw this thread title and my first thought was wow really why would you bother? who the hell needs to do this? then I clicked and started reading and while I personally have no reason to do this, I gotta say, @GHOST SHIP deserves props for a well informed and well written post

 

Good point, heat + rubber is probably a bad combination

 

Agree but others have done it on write ups on this forum so the idea is not totally uninformed/untested

 

I would either put the factory vapor barrier back on or buy more sound deadening material to seal access holes in the door to keep moisture out