Removing Crankshaft position sensor 2012 2.7

Hello, I have been having a problem with fuel economy, acceleration, and now I have a bad sound between 1 and 2 rpm. I ran it through a shop’s scanner, and the only code was for the crankshaft position sensor ( which would make sense.) I saw one other thread talk about this, and the conclusion was the ac compressor needed to be removed. Is that true? Or is there and easier way to replace it?

Toyota Tacoma 2.7

 

AFAIK, it’s true. It does have to be unbolted and moved out of the way.
The other guys that asked this question never updated us.
If you do replace it, let us know if you find a better way.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/crankshaft-position-sensor-location-and-fixing.714589/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2-7-crank-shaft-position-sensor.431519/

 

Okay, that is what I didn't want to hear. So you just have to shift it a bit? you dont have to fully disconnect it and replace the refrigerant correct?

 

That I don’t know, but that is what I’d try first.
If I were to bet, I’d bet just unbolting it’s and moving it would do the trick.
I have a 4.0 engine, I can’t really tell you 100% for sure.

 

What the manual says:
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSORREMOVAL
1.DISCONNECT CABLE FROM NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL
2.REMOVE ENGINE UNDER COVER SUB-ASSEMBLY NO.1 (for 4WD and Pre-Runner)
3.REMOVE FAN AND GENERATOR V BELT (W/ AIR CONDITIONING)
4.SEPARATE COMPRESSOR AND MAGNETIC CLUTCH (W/ AIR CONDITIONING)
5.REMOVE IDLE PULLEY ASSEMBLY WITH BRACKET (W/ AIR CONDITIONING)
(a) Remove the 5 bolts, then remove the idle pulley with bracket.

Steps 4 and 5 are the pain in the @ss ones.

Step 4 says to unbolt the compressor assembly and you can probably tie it back out of the way enough ( maybe ). Edit: I was looking at the compressor removal instructions and the suction hose has a long hard pipe and a bracket that may be troublesome to moving the compressor enough to get at the idler and bracket.



Step 5 says to remove the idler pulley assembly and bracket held on by 5 bolts.

 

Wow, you are a gem. Thank you! I get the sensor tomorrow, so I will let you know how it goes ( and if the issues are fixed.) This is really helpful.

 

All the luck! Let us know how this comes out.

 

Be gentle when pulling the sensor from the engine it is plastic and it will break if stressed too hard.

Use a twisting back and forwards motion while pulling it out. You need to twist it to get the o-ring to unseal from the hole. Remember slow and steady wins the race.

Do not put a side load on it as it will break off in the hole.

 

Update: Parts store ordered a cam sensor not a crankshaft drive sensor. Should get the correct part on Monday.

 

Well damn. looking forward to your success.

 

Thanks for your help! And me too. I have been having serious issues with power and acceleration. 21 second 0-60. Going from a v8 tundra and trying to drive this one is a struggle. Hopefully this will alleviate the problem!

 

did the shop tell you the code number?
I know you said it was the Crank sensor, but I recently chased down some of my own codes and found it to be the Oil Control Valve ( one of the things to check from the FSM was crank sensor )