Removing automatic transmission pan

Getting ready to remove the automatic transmission pan on my 2006 Tacoma 4X4. I understand this pan has RTV or some kind of sealant. Rubber mallet or scraper?
Anyone have any tricks that would come in handy?
Thanks...

 

Do not pry hard on the edge of the pan. It could deform it enough to cause a leak. Toyota uses FIPG or Form In Place Gasket, black or orange depending on the application.

I use a couple ( 2 or 3 ) plastic scrapers from the hardware store and insert them in diametrically opposing positions and wedge the pan loose slowly. The plastic will not scratch and is less likely to deform the pan edges.

Clean the mating surfaces well and make sure they are free of oil and debris before you reapply the new FIPG and install the pan. Use a torque wrench to reinstall the bolts into the pan and tighten them down in a cross pattern in increments until you reach full torque. Then go around the pan ( not in a cross pattern ) and torque to the final value again. Remember aluminum is soft, do not over torque the bolts.

The 65 inch pounds is for the A340E Transmission.

The 750E transmission pan torque is 39 inch pounds.

Sorry for the confusion.

 

Thanks for the great info Jimmyh.
I planned to use a Fel-Pro gasket with RTV. Sounds like that would not be needed.
I was wondering if a rubber mallet might be needed to break loose. Guess I'll figure it out.
Where I'm staying I will have a 2 hour window to use a covered space and no backup vehicle to run to the parts store if I forget something. Got to get it right the first time.

 

I just checked and the tranny pan has a gasket and no visible sealant. Maybe worried about nothing. I'll have a couple plastic scrapers just in case. Thanks again!

 

my 2013 is just a gasket

 

I always use a sealer even with a gasket.

I just ran through the FSM again and I misread the torque value it should be 39 inch pounds and NOT what I said above.

The 65 inch pounds is for the A340E Transmission.

The 750E transmission pan torque is 39 inch pounds.

Sorry for the confusion.

 

I use a little sealant at the corners of the gasket to align the pan and gasket holes so I can start some screws without the gasket falling off and starting over.

 

From Fel Pro Q&A:
"No RTV or any other sealers, ATF, or anything else should be applied to the (TOS 18736) gasket. Make sure the transmission and the pan are clean and dry. And yes, the bolt holes in the gasket are just slightly undersized, so the pan bolts will hold the gasket in place.
We hope this helps!"

I think I will try it this way.

Update: Pan came off easy, cleaned the pan, magnets and filter. Pan went back on easy. Thanks all for the help with specs.

 

I'll be changing my transmission oil pan tomorrow. How was it taking off the 20 surrounding pan bolts?

Also... I plan on swapping the magnets from the old pan to the new pan. how are the magnets seated in the old pan?

 

The bolts on mine came out very easily. The three magnets each have a spot on the pan. Just look at the old pan and place them in the same spot after cleaning.
I did spray the bolts the day before with PB Blaster.

 

I didn't get to change my transmission oil pan today. I plan on getting to it tomorrow.

I'm changing the pan due to the drain plug being cross threaded and stripped out by the previous owner attempting an oil change. I'm choosing to replace the whole pan and gasket with original Toyota parts as opposed to drilling the plug out and retapping.

With the drain plug cross threaded I cannot drain the pan before I remove it, i believe the next logical step is to drain as much as I can through the check valve under "room temperature conditions."

 

Yeah don't use sealant together with Fel Pro gaskets - it will just cause the gasket to get stuck on the transmission case, creating a mess the next time you remove the pan... if there is a next time.

 

Since you are replacing the pan, use an awl and a hammer near one of the corners to drain the fluid. Do make sure your new pan is correct before punching the hole, since it somewhat irreversible.

 

^JB Weld isn't THAT hard to use.

 

A MIG welder is easier.

 

So is FPIG a gasket replacement or do you put it on both sides of the rubber gasket?

 

Do not use FIPG with a gasket. Use FIPG by itself.
Just using the gasket alone for this application makes a good tight seal and takes much less time than FIPG.

 

FIPG

Form
In
Place
Gasket

It is used in the place of a pre-cut / formed gasket.

 

When I purchased my new transmission filter it came with a new gasket for the pan. I Just used the gasket only. Had zero issues.

 

the same thing happened with me with the drain plug being cross threaded. I was wondering if you remember how it went when you removed the pan? Did it all spill out? And how much ATF fluid did you have to put back in? And how did you verify the level? Sorry for all the questions, would really appreciate your input though!