Rear Window Replacement

Hi,

I broke out the passenger side of the rear window a couple of months ago and have had plastic taped over it since then. I don't remember the exact numbers but the glass shop wanted over $800 so I've been putting it off. From this forum, even for 2nd gen, I got the idea that I could do it myself, and removal of a rear window is basically 2 bolts on the inside and then pry the H shaped gasket off of a flange on the truck. Installation is basically the reverse.

So I got a window from a junkyard, $200. When I picked it up, he said he had to cut the whole thing off with piano wire to get it out, and Tacomas don't have the type that are just a gasket. He said it was put in with sealant and that's how a new window will go in also.

I have a 2012 reg cab, although all rear windows are the same. Has anybody actually removed or installed a new window on their trucks? Did they maybe switch out to a sealant installation in later 2nd generation models and the gasket was only on the earlier 2nd gens?

I'm pretty lost. Thanks for the help

 

Don't know anything about the Tacoma rear window, but when I had the rear window replaced in my Dodge Ram, was told by glass shop window was sealed in and was integral part of cab safety like in a roll over. Unlike yours from the junkyard they could not save my window they removed. I would think serious about seeing if a glass shop could even install the window you got from the junkyard. Good luck!

 

Its held in by 4 or 6 10mm bolts plus adhesive. You can get the sealant from pep boys. It's a black urethane. I do this for a living. Don't cheap out on the urethane. Regular caulk for house windows won't work will end up leaking. Hopefully this helps you out a bit. Good luck

Should take 2 tubes doesn't need to be a very thick bead. Your looking at 28$ a tube though

 

2nd gen Tacos have a plastic clip in each upper corner and a 10mm bolt in each lower corner but that's ONLY to secure the window in place at the factory until the urethane cures. Good luck cutting the adhesive to remove your old glass. Without tools specific to auto glass removal, you're gonna get your butt kicked. And if someone piano wired the junk yard glass, you'd wanna make sure they left a universally flat surface because if it gets installed and there's any excessive gaps between the glass and the adhesive, you're gonna get wet inside. I have 15 years in auto glass replacement (I've removed and installed DOZENS of tacomas back windows) and would **HIGHLY** recommend taking it to a reputable glass shop and paying them to do the work. Keep in mind they may not warranty the installation since you didn't buy the part from them. If you have a $500 comprehensive deductible or lower, I'd suggest filing a claim and getting a new glass as I've seen some butchered removals of junkyard parts and you could end up having serious and costly water damage. Glass claims won't affect your premium so seriously look into this as an option. And as previously stated, you're also risking the structural integrity of the vehicle so don't go a cheap and easy route on this.

 

Dang. I wouldn’t have gotten into it if I knew that was the removal and install. I can maybe find someone to install this window that I got at the junkyard, or just have a glass shop put in a new one.

Here’s the window that I bought. Pretty rough, would you put it in?

 

I would put it in - worst case, you still go somewhere to have someone else do it.

I've thought about this too, the owner I bought my truck from had broke and replaced the rear window with a non-slider. It's not the worst thing, but there are times I wish I had a slider.

 

Had my replaced with a PGW rear slider, installed by a professional $500 and lifetime guarantee since they installed for leaks or defects.

 

So if I were to do it, I assume I would cut my window out, scrape all the urethane off my truck, cut the gasket in the junkyard window smooth, apply new urethane to the truck, stick it in and bolt?

 

A man I work with does glass on the side. He did my windsheild for me. He was able to use an oscillating tool with a good blade to cut the old adhesive out. It’s tough to get through but not ridiculously hard. Clean the surfaces down just like replacing any gasketed surface and glue back in. This guy had a battery powered caulking gun. Said using a manual one could really give you a workout due to the thickness of the sealant. I’d attempt it myself.

Edit. That’s a good point that was made to me as well about how the glass was actually a structural piece of the vehicle. I never would have guessed but that being said, it should be done right.

 

If you are a DIYer and already have the glass and the sealant suggestions from TW experts here, I would take my time and do it myself. Most important step is to clean off the sealant completely and reapply generously to prevent gaps/leaks. With sealant, gasket, and being bolted in, it's not like it's going to pop out cruising down the highway.

 

Alright, I think I might give it a shot when I have a free day. Thanks for all the advice.

 

Grab a bottle of this also. If you gouge the body during removal of the urethane, you need to seal the nicks to prevent rust. This will also help the urethane stick (as long as you don't have a primer-less urethane).

$29 3M Single Step Primer, 08682, Black Color, One-Part Urethane, UV Resistant, 30 mL/1.01 fl oz

https://www.amazon.com/3M-08682-Single-Step-Primer/dp/B00473W5V8

 

Here is a video of a replacement that may help. https://youtu.be/Xwcty7OQLRg

I've done a hand full of these and IMO one of the tougher ones to do. I use a wire cutout to make it easier. If you can get someone to help cut it out. You can buy a set of WRD fiber line hand pullers and starter kit here.

WRD-H1B Fiber Line Hand Puller Set Two Fiber line Hand pullers

https://www.amazon.com/WRD-H1B-Fiber-Line-Puller-pullers/dp/B07MK82BQG If you live close to me I'd be more then happy to lend a hand.

 

Being a "DIY'er" doesn't qualify someone to perform a skilled trade. Sorry to hop on my high horse here, but I've spent the last 14yrs of my life as an auto glass tech at a Toyota certified collision center and there's some VITAL steps and SERIOUS risks involved trying to perform structural repairs on your own vehicle. Poor installation can lead to water damage and rust, plus there's risks of damaging your vehicle AND YOURSELF. Just because I can buy 220v romex, a pair of pliers, and watched a YouTube video doesn't mean I should be performing major electrical work on my home. Some things are better left to professionals.

 

Yea, a "buddy" of mine did that one time for me when I wanted to install a 220V receptacle and a GFCI outlet in the garage for a heater fan and a beer fridge. The "buddy" watch a few videos and read online regarding codes etc.. and installed it for me. Ended up working and looking great. If I was in the OP's situation, I would not hesistate to have it installed by my "buddy".

 

I gave it a go today. I went with the idea that worst case I have to pay a glass shop to put a new one in anyways so I’d only be out $60 in urethane.

Got my window out by doing pretty much what the guy in the video did, cut away the rubber trim piece on the outside, then cut the seal (I just used a utility knife) and yank the frame. Definitely a destructive removal method. I scraped off most of the d urethane leaving only a thin layer, primed a few scratches, cleaned up the salvaged window, went thick with the 3M window weld on the truck, stuck it in and bolted it right. It looks good from the outside and I can see the urethane squeezed out on the inside. 24 hours to fully cure now.

I will keep the trim off for now and check for leaks with a hose or rain but it looks good to me.

 

Nice work OP

 

Damn, I paid 375 with glass and install. It isn’t OEM glass, but still great quality and clarity. They even came to my house to install

 

Impressive man. Good on you for trying it yourself. Let us know how it holds up!