Rear leaf pack install help

Rear leaf pack install using Skyjacker part

$236 TCR515S 1.5-2" Softride Leaf Spring - Pair

TCR515S. I have one side bolted up to the front and rear through bolts. But now the centering pin is about 1 inch out on the axle. Need help on how to align it and get the u bolts on axle.

I jacked the truck up and then dropped the suspension and doing one side at a time to keep it tight.

But the pin has to be out and ill need to re drill. Or I'm thinking to center it first, put u bolts on and then try to align through bolts but that's gonna be alot harder I'm thinking.

I believe orientairon of pack is correct. I'm matching the stock set up where it's double layer in front bolt and single layer in back bolt.

I contacted munfacturer but no response from them yet.
Any suggestions!??

The funny thing is the measurement for the pin placement is closer to what is should be if i flip the springs so double layer in rear. And single in front....

 

First make sure the military double wrap side of the leaf spring is mounted toward the front of the truck. Make sure all 3 leaf spring mounting bolts are loose: front eye, rear eye, and shackle.

The pin not centering is normal during installation as the axle sometimes walks and you’re introducing new geometry. Take a ratchet strap and loop it around the outer portion of the axle right behind the brake drum. Hook the other end to your frame under the passenger door. Then ratchet the axle forward into position until the pin drops in the spring perch. Install the U-bolts, tighten them then release the strap.

You can torque the u-bolts to spec at this stage but do not torque the leaf spring bolts until the truck is on the ground. The spring shackles need the full weight of the truck to find their new home before torquing them down.

 

Flotaco has it nailed. Ratchet strap is the way.

 

Thank you.
Ratchet strap worked. I was avoiding it cuz I have would think it screws up the drive line but it's my only choice at this point. Guess we ll see lol.

I have work and towing to do on Monday.

I ended up pulling the axle back an inch or so towards back of truck. I hooked on to rear hitch and lower shock mount. Slid back easily. Hopefully back an inch or forward an inch is same same.

 

The ratchet strap should work, but I was able to line the axle by hand with the help of my buddy.

 

As long as your rear differential was supported with a jack there’s really no risk of driveline damage.

 

Shit, why didn’t I think of a ratchet strap when doing mine????‍♂️

 

Next time leave the U-bolts loose on both sides until you get the centering pins in. That'll let you move the axle around by hand without needing a ratchet strap in most cases.

 

Side one done . Moving onto to drive side.
Coffee break first lol. Cold coffee!

 

This job is another perfect example of "simple" 2 or three hour job. Turns into 12 hour day . I had one inch block and oem leafs in before. The new u bolts and nuts I used last time were shit i guess. Had to chop them out. FML. My grinder has saved me so many times. Best tool in my garage lol.

Grinding near gas tank. Always fun. Wet blanket helped not to kill myself. Bonus.

 

Very common in a shop to just use a cutting torch on the U-bolts. Impact wrenches don't work well on U-bolts because of their length.

 

Oh man. Feel so much better lol. Thought I was the only one. Cursing up a storm until I cut them. I had left over OEM bolts and used those saved the day.

 

Not all was bad. Had a chance to Fluid Film all the hot spots on the frame and chassis with a cheap hand roller from dollar store I had lying around.
Control arms, frame welds, axle etc. Maybe 45 mins .
Picked up a whole bucket from the P. Auto here for 20 bux clearance.

 

How'd you get a hand roller inside the box section under the engine?

 

The boxed portion was waxed with some goop from dealship as part of some recall about 2 years ago. I went for the easy spots and visible rust spots. The roller worked well for a quick job. Didn't spray it every where either.

 

Update now to this thread for anyone considering these for 3rd Gen. Put about 500 km on these.

Ride is more controlled and a bit smoother than OEM leafs and 1 inch Toyetec block. Happy with ride quality. Using same Bislteins 5100s at all 4 corners.

Unfortunately lost about 1/4 to 1/2 inch on each side. I was hoping it would at least be the same "lift" as provided by the blocks, or a tad more considering they are advertised as 1.5" inch increase.
Net gain over stock height for 3 rd gen I would estimate is 1/2".

Going to look at getting icon leaf packs next and do it right for the rear lift. Once these 5100s are miled out.