Rear differential replacement

I hope it's ok that I am starting a new post since my initial post referenced a transmission or clutch problem and I'm hoping for some more help. As noted below it turned out to be the rear/ 3rd differential.

Shop just called and said that the rear differential is shot and a used part and installation is about $3,200 with a 12,000 miles or 1 year warranty. It's a 373 gear with a electric diff lock. Any thoughts or suggestions as I just put $1,400 in it for a clutch.

In my previous post another member provided a link for a rebuilt 3rd differential for about $800 and noted that the replacement is not that difficult.

I'm thinking about doing the repair myself but not sure if I need to be concerned about there being damage to the axel shafts or the electric diff lock parts. I'm not sure how these parts interact with the 3rd diff.... thanks

 

You’re way Overpaying for everything. Get a used 3rd member from a wrecker (most common V6 ratio is 3.73) and slam it in yourself for $300

 

You can get a rebuilt 3rd member for less.
You can even opt out of not sending yours back for a core, and it’s still cheaper.
Nahh, no way. No way I’m paying that price for used components.

https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-131078-8-tacoma-fj-cruiser-4runner-e-locker-3rd.html

 

I regeared with new Gleason torsen diffs front and rear for not a lot more than that. All new parts. Mechanic charged me $500 for front and rear install

 

To rebuild the rear diff the parts are not cheap as you need a new gear set (ring and pinion) and master rebuild kit (bearings/shims/crush sleeve) and the knowledge to set it all up. Assumes the spider gears are OK and the housing. You need to get all the metal bits out of the housing. Several posts on how to do pulling axles back or out etc. You can go to many sites and price these parts. Ballpark for complete parts and clean/setup/install at a shop is about $2000 range of course many will post other figures. ECGS is the best option if you have the time or you can ask a shop to cost using ECGS 3rd member. Look at their site and see what is in there. As others said a complete rear is always an option and easy to spot an e-locker unit. I destroyed my ring and pinion in the mountains so had to use a local drivetrain shop as no place to work or jacks/stands/etc. This did not include rear axle bearings as they were done before and OK. Realize that cost/time/effort/ability are also factors as other add their comments.

 

I ordered a 3rd diff from ECGS and had the truck towed back to my house. So thanks for the suggestions. I'd appreciate any guidance around the removal and replacement process, especially if I need to definitely replace any other parts or if there are parts I should consider replacing. Also appreciate any links to threads or videos on this same topic. I've found a couple but always like to see what others did.... thanks

 

Like this?

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...d-installation-of-e-locker-3rd-member.193828/

 

Here is some info on gear failure that I found interesting.
https://www.differentials.com/technical-help-2/failure-analysis/

As the diff gets older and clearances loosen up and the crush sleeve gets abused parts can shift around/contact surfaces change in there.
Note that ECGS can set the pinion with fixed shims and no crush sleeve as most drag race vehicles do if you order it for higher abuse use.
If you have an e-locker and the ring/pinion do break on the trail way out there and you must have 4WD leave it in the locked mode as that will probably save the spider gears as they will not be turning getting chewed up.
If 4WD is not required to get out you can pull the driveshaft(s) out so no power to the rear may help some but wheels will still be turning the ring/pinion. But could save other drivetrain components.
But I figure once broke what's a few more teeth and on the trail it's a pain to pull that driveshaft(s) out.

As for removing the 3rd member you may want to disconnect the rear brake lines and parking brake and pull the axles all the way out to put in new axle seals and flush the axle tubes of all metal bits/chips before reassembly. That also helps so no gear oil will be still dripping out as you reinstall that 3rd.

 

I had some follow up questions that came up after I pulled the 3rd member, so I started a new thread, but haven't gotten any replies. not sure if i did something wrong with the new post, but here is the link below to it as i'm hoping some of you will be able to provide your thoughts...thanks

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/rear-differential-replacement-follow-up-questions.786191/

 

Destroyed eh? What were the symptoms like?

 

I too am interested in seeing your questions answered in that thread … I may end up going a similar route.

 

I had metal to metal grinding noise coming from the rear. I ended up replacing it with a rebuild from east coast gears. Looking back it really wasn't that difficult especially with the detailed write ups that you will find in this forum

 

Clunking or banging coming from the drivetrain.

 

Exactly as Naveronski said. I have a 1-piece Tom Woods shaft so it rang thru that too. Did the U-joints later as slight play (I wonder why ha ha).
Look at the link in post #8 and you can expand the Broken Ring and Pinion pic - that was what mine looked like after high power/wheel speed coming off some rocks then I drove it 10 miles or so out of the mountains.

For older rears (not with broken teeth) you often start getting a whine from all the gears and bearings as a rebuild becomes necessary. Heavy towing will basically eat the rear end bearings (3rd member and wheel) at some point. Noise builds over time so you may not notice at first but driving near a wall (like a driveup window) may amplify the noise so becomes obvious. But many other rotating parts can also cause similar noises.

 

How would you “flush” so that metal chips all get washed out?

Just soapy water perhaps? And then fresh water? And then long dry time? Or maybe a hairdryer to dry it out?

Getting moisture in there seems dubious to me, but if you use heated air to dry it quickly, maybe that’s plausible.

 

A shop broom handle and a rag.
Kind of like cleaning a gun barrel.

 

Not water or soap.
Use solvent or a spray brake cleaner so you leave no residue that with contaminate the gear oil.
Use shop rags or other not full of lint.