Rear brake line replacement?

2011 SR5, 4 cyl, MT, 110k miles
Story time:
Bought my truck on a Wednesday, gave the old guy the plates, and a neighbor got it towed that Friday for being "abandoned." (It was parked on my street at the time) C'est la vie. I registered the truck the following Monday.

I go to the tow yard, pay the impound fee, and find out the parking brake is stuck. The tow guy hooks it under the rear axle and gives it a gentle pull from a winch to try to free the brake, no success. It's after 5 pm, so no use trying anything else stupid until the next day.

Next day, I get a local mechanic to take a look at the stuck brake. Guy calls me, says the brake isn't stuck anymore. Great, I go pick up the truck after work. Parking brake light is still on, but now the truck moves. Soft brake pedal, and I can feel the rear shudder every time I press the brakes. Get the truck home, and see a spray of brake fluid along my driveway. Take a look underneath, and the brake line from the axle mount to the wheel is sheared off at the mount. Under the hood, brake fluid is at "min" in the reservoir. I understand I'm luck I got it home at all.

Tow guys aren't denying they damaged the truck, even offered to fix it for me, but they're taking their time. I don't really feel like fighting about this with them but I need the truck for work.

Question:
I'm handy, but new to brake work. It looks like I can just replace the line, bleed the system, and be back on the road. I'm also certain I'll have to rebuild the rear brakes to release the parking brake. I've trawled around online for a tutorial on replacing the lines and found some info for extended lines in Gen 1 and Gen 3 trucks, which seems straightforward enough. Not really sure what parts I need to order. Am I biting off more than I can chew here?

 

That hard line is toasted. The extended brake stuff you're seeing is for the soft lines (the rubber dude in your pics). Given that it broke at the connection, I would also replace the soft line.

Also, if that connection looks that bad, I would also be ready to replace the brake cylinder, which is on the other end of that hard line you need to replace.

The lines are not difficult, especially if you order drop in replacements which will already be bent and have the correct flares and nuts on them.

The cylinder itself is not expensive but does require taking the drum all the way apart to replace. Not necessarily difficult, but if you've never done it before make sure you study up first and budget twice as much time as you think you will need.

This video will show you everything you need to know about digging into the drums:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ru8E9iw7nM

You will also want to make sure you have a 10mm flare wrench to work with the brake lines. Pick one up for a couple bucks at any local auto store.

I do not know what your budget is like, but to me this is one of those jobs that is a prime candidate for "while I'm in there" - consider getting a drum rebuild kit since you have to tear it all apart and put it all back together anyway.

Drum brake rebuild kit, Rockauto.com p/n H17432 (does both sides)

Wheel cylinder (need 1 each side) WC370183

Rear hose - left side 2204095 / right side 2204096

I didn't find premade hard lines, your local auto store may be able to make them for you if you bring the old ones, or order from the dealership - I like Olathe Toyota, out of Kansas.

 

Good god, go through the entire truck with the amount of rust im seeing there!

 

Haha, welcome to New England! I have plans for stripping and refinishing/replacing basically the entire underside of the truck, but I just need it running right now. Frame is in great shape (good ol recall replacement) but I agree the running gear looks awful

 

Thanks man, I appreciate the guidance. I'll get the parts together and probably start taking things apart later this week. I'll give an update on how things go

 

I once went to replace a single brake line and by the time I was finished, the truck I had, had all-new lines. Good luck.

 

Just did a section on my wife's Prius using NiCopp. VERY easy to bend/shape/flare. I was debating about just replacing the full section, but would require dropping part of the subframe because of how it routes, so just replaced about 2 feet leading up to the rusted out end. Toyota uses coated lines (the coating is about 1/16ish thick) so the only rusted part was what was exposed at the very end for the fittings.

I went 2 feet because that's what it took to get to a section that was easily cut, manipulated, stripped of coating, and flared.

NiCopp (or Cunifer) lines make life so much easier. If you go the self-assembly route, make sure you get a GOOD flaring tool like the

$67 Lisle 33260 Flaring Tool

Lisle 33260. Cheap ones just makes things more difficult at best, and make poor leaky flares at worst.

I got the 33260 because I needed to do it under the car/inline where I cut the original. Compared to the old days of steel replacement lines, it was ALMOST fun.

In your particular case, it looks like a short section that's easily changed (and cheap from the dealer). I would definitely change the hose too though.

 

I just got off the phone with the parts dept at Olathe, they have a direct replacement for the hardline I need. I did some digging on the general Toyota parts center site and found this diagram for the 2nd Gen brake system. I am replacing 47328-04020

 

Yeah, for that piece I would just replace than fab. As stated, I would also replace the hose. Make sure you also get a new clip (the 90648-a0007). Don't get an aftermarket clip - I first got one for the Prius, and it was too thick to work. Of course, you want to check the main line leading up to the hose at minimum.

Depending on how things are, if you're planning to re-do everything at some point as you stated, it might be ok to just replace that line and keep the hose (it might be seized/rusted to the line on the other side). The issue is even if you wanted to keep the hose for now, that fitting on the broken line side might be so rusted/seized to the hose you might HAVE to replace the hose.

 

I'm going to start with replacing the driver's side assembly, from the soft line all the way to the cylinder. Rebuild both drum brakes, and keep my fingers crossed I don't break anything else in the process. (and probably end up with a truck with all-new brake lines )
Ordered the parts today (plus a bleeder kit)

 

Once it's all together, no leaks, ready to roll, hit the connection between the hard line and the hose with Amsoil HDMP, Cosmoline, or similar tenacious anti-corrosion product.

I live in Salt Hell and have had great luck with the HDMP - I bought a sixpack of it several years ago and hit any exposed fasteners, hardware, line connections, etcetera with it and between that and Nev-R-Seize on anything I take apart and put back together, it has made a huge difference over time.

 

HEADS UP...
Your parking brake was probably STUCK engaged because the crappy aluminum grommets that bolt the cable to the back of the rear hub snap...and then the cable can't release...the only way to disengage this is to release the brake, back up and slam on the brakes...
I have to replace mine presently it's just a big PITA....but if you're opening up the rear drums replace the parking brake cables with OEM...


https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-replace-rear-parking-brake-cables.799982/#post-29013279
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4JuVrd5pUbA

 

Here's an update on that "simple" job turned into a headache and back into a simple job: I fixed it.
After trying with penetrating oil, muscle power, and literal fire, I finally broke free that snapped off fitting, replaced the line, and bled the brakes. Interestingly, once the brakes were fully bled, the parking brake fully released and now the truck moves with no issues. I guess keep an eye out for a thread on how to perform an exorcism on a truck.
The true wisdom I gained from this process was that if you're 5'3 and below, you can sit nearly fully upright under the back end of a stock 6-lug with the spare tire removed
Bonus image: The cursed fitting, rusted almost the entire way down the threads