Rear brake drum removal issue

So I'm aware you have to put the 2 bolts n tighten to release drum. one side is so worne down that the pad is catching on the drum, making it unable to remove. Plz help! Any1

 

I usually beat and smash as the drums are no good anyway. Get some pry bars inbehind the back lip of the drum. They'll eventually come off.

 

Remove the rubber plug on inside side of drum. Wind the little scroll wheel to react the pads. You might have to push a tab away from the ratchet to move it, I can't remember which direction it will go without moving that piece.

 

If you've never taken off drum brakes before it's going to suck. Like said above, there is a star adjuster behind the rubber plug on the back side of the drum. Remove the plug and try to look inside, I forget which side it is driver/passenger but you can see what's in there but the other side there's interference(shock) in the way. You will have to use 2 screwdrivers, 1 to push back the tab and the other to spin the star inboard towards the center of the truck. It's a pain in the ass learning how to do it the first time but if you try to force it off with jacking bolts you will damage the pad spring retainers. (Ask me how I know)

 

$10 gets you all new springs (kit) pull the bastards off and save your knuckles buy new spring kit.

 

Agree with "loosening" the adjuster.

 

Depends where op lives. In SoCal yes loosen adjusters. In north east Canada, don't waste your time as they're likely seized.

 

If there's too big of a wear ridge built up on the drum and you don't back off the adjuster, no amount of prying is going to get the drum off. As has already been said, back off the star wheel adjuster before trying to pull the drum off.

 

I have lots of experience with this and trust me they'll come off. Like I said if you live in a harsh climate and the adjusters are seized how do you think I'd get my drums off?
I've owned vehicles in the past that don't even have a window on the backing plate to adjust the brake shoes with the drums on.

I agree however it makes it easier if you have a large lip on your drum and your adjusters back off easily. By all means back them off.

 

If the adjuster is seized then make sure you have a spring kit on hand to replace the broken parts. Depending on the springs, a Ford Ranger kit will have some that are useful. Spent a bunch of time at Pep Boys one evening looking for replacement springs that woudl work since they didn't have any kits for Tacomas.

 

Sub'd

 

To the OP, speaking of spring kits make SURE to put the same length "spring pin" back in place (i.e. the "shoe hold-down spring")!!! Those are the ones where you "twist" the spring cap/cups to unlock/lock them into place. My spring kit came with 2x different lengths.

Plus, regarding brake shoes, I believe there are two sizes so you will have to make sure you get the same size brake shoes before scratching your knuckles!!!

Here are some pics of my drum brake job.


I recommend that you clean/brush any surface rust around the wheel hub (concentric) and brush with anti-seize!!! It may help for future drum removal, at least with regards to surface rust?!

If you get some anti-seize compound on your wheel studs, just wipe it OFF. It's okay to have a VERY, VERY SMALL amount of anti-seize on your wheel studs, just don't "go to town" with too much of it on the wheel studs because when retightening your lugs, your "torque specs" are/will be different!!! If you are uneasy about having any anti-seize compound on your wheel studs, just wipe it completely OFF!!!

Finally, that GREEN spring you see in the pic, whatever color it is, THAT particular spring is VERY "EASY" to deal with, and, btw, that is meant to be an EXTREMELY SARCASTIC remark!!! LOL!!! I used needle nose pliers and very harsh language that made the devil himself cringe up into a fetal position, LMAO!!! They make a tool for it, I believe, but, overall, it just wasn't worth it... for me that is. Even then, I've seen vids where it can still be a PITA, even with the tool, just NOT as bad, LOL!!!

DO NOT get any anti-seize on the brake shoe surface that contacts the drums!!! Make sure to spray brake cleaner as well and try not to breathe in the dust!!!

Hope this helps a little?

 

You have released the e-brake, right?

 

Cut the heads off of the nails holding the shoes on. They are the back side of backing plates. Shoes will come with the drums then. You get new parts with a brake hardware kit. If you are replacing drums also you can cut them off with a cut off wheel on grinder.

 

The reason there are two different size shoes is that one goes on the forward facing side of the backing plate and one faces rearward.

 

LOL!!! Never thought about that question???!!! LOL!!!

VERY NICE!!! Talk about going for the jugular!!! LOL!!!

I know about the forward/back facing shoes, I was talking about a video that I saw and the guy bought it for a Tacoma, but apparently, depending on the size of the truck, I'm guessing, there are 2x different diameter sizes? I could be wrong, but it would make sense if it was a 5lugger vs a 6lugger for brake drum size, which in turn will correlate to the brake shoe size??? Again, I'm talking about the overall diameter of both shoes.

Other than that, it was a pretty good YT vid that the guy did!!!

My first and last brake drum job involved my old car that I worked on over 15yrs now, may be??? It was a Dodge Shadow and VERY reliable car/engine with the only exception of a constant slow valve cover gasket oil leak that I was constantly trying to figure out???!!! LOL!!! Other than that, I LOVED that car!!!

Anyways, it was a long time ago when I did my first brake drum job and just didn't really want to do it again, but hey, it can be pretty fun as well... accepting the fact that you will most likely get "war wounds" during the process of working on your own vehicle?! LOL!!! In the end, it is a rewarding feeling.

LOL, a few weeks later, I went on an overnight wheeling trip with a friend of mine and had to use my brakes BADLY!!! I then realized, as I'm basically FACING DOWNWARDS, LOL, I'm thinking to myself, "well, I know my brake job was done right!" LMAO!!! Here is one pick that my other friend that was behind me had his GF take. I was facing soooo far forward, LOL, my friend eventually got out and pulled my back end down a bit so I could eventually "crawl forward", LOL!!! BUT, the douche bags first priority was to take the picture, LMFAO!!! I probably would have done the same?! LOL!!!

The pic doesn't do it any justice on how far forward my truck was facing downward, LOL!!! Both of my friends were laughing and at the same time, "HOLY SHI*!!!" LOL!!!

Good times, good times!!!

 

Buy new drum and cut old off which has lip. Or the lip will get you again in the future. Like it did me. 140k and it had grown attached.

 

plain and simple make sure adjuster wheel is backed all the way if not its going to bind and fight you all the way ....

 

Let's just say it's out of the 'lessons learned' folder.

I had about 15 vehicles before I owned one that had disc brakes on it.

My first car was '64 GTO #104 with 4 wheel drums.

Dear old Dad got to teach me how to repair/service a lot of things on that car. Brakes being one, 'cause I had to use them a lot.