Radiator Petcock Question

Just getting around to doing a cooling system drain.
The petcock is plastic, what's the chance it breaks off the little wings you use to unscrew it?

And how tight does it need to be when tightening it back up?
Is it sealed by an o-ring or just direct contact seal?

I don't want to mess it up, old plastic scares me. I can just see it breaking. Yikes.

 

Finger tight, it seals before its even tight,

to loosen try by hand, otherwise a small pair of plyers, or an old secret, a 22mm wrench fits on the wings.

 

22 mm socket works great. Just don't over tighten it.

 

Lol, petcock

 

Thanks man.
I was hoping you’d respond.
I figured if anyone would know you’d probably know best.
I’d say you’ve done more than a few by now.

 

Never had a problem in 17 years

 

Hey Bill, it’s that a 1/4 to 1/2 adapter you’re using to loosen the drain wing?

 

That 22 mm socket is a 1/2" and the ratchet is 3/8".....so a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter

 

This ^ go easy and you will be fine,the valve wings are nylon ,not plastic so they wont break so easy.

 

Any tips on bleeding the system of air?
Going to try to get this done this weekend.
Thanks man.

 

Get one of these. One of the best tools I've used.

$34 Lisle 24680 Spill-Free Funnel, Standard Adapters, 11 x 7 x 7"es

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-...eywords=no+spill+funnel&qid=1571907192&sr=8-6

 

Does the skid plate need to come off in order to loosen the drain screw?

 

No but it makes it much easier. I have always used a 13/16” socket on mine and the fill kit above is worth it.

 

Funnel is best, but you just leave the cap off, keep adding until you have consistant cabin heat.

The heat in the cabin means good flow and no air in the heater core, which is the hardest place to remove the air.

Usually I let it idle for 5 minutes, then start to rev 2000-3000, until heat. If no heat in cabin, I'll shut it off and try to let it settle and burp for a minute. Repeat.

On REALLY bad bleeds, I'll jack the front of the truck up.

 

Leave the cap OFF with the engine running until warm air is felt in the cabin?
The FSM, says to replace the cap, and warm engine with heat to Warm and fan ON, then let it cool and add more coolant if needed.


That seems like it would take awhile, as waiting for it cool would make the job take a good while.

Thanks Bishop.


The way you stated above is the way I’ve typically done it in the past.
But, I did have a headache with a Nissan Altima once. Almost never got the air out of the system.
I never want to deal with one of those again.....EVER.
You are absolutely right about jacking the front up to get the air out.
On the Altima, I had to find a steep drive way (really steep) to get it working.
Thank goodness the Tech @ Nissan felt sorry for me. He told me what to do.

That’s really the reason I asked the question.

 

Picked one up this morning.
Never used one before.
Hopefully this makes the job a little easier.

Thanks man

 

I never used one of those funnels either, I always just kept the radiator full, let it idle with the cap off, heater on, and top off as needed. How does the funnel make it any easier? I’m just replacing a gallon’s worth in the radiator by the way.

 

If you don't have time to wait for a Lisle Funnel delivery, see post #23 in this thread.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/tacoma-overheating.622732/page-2#post-21249357

 

80% less mess! Don't fill the funnel to the top, 1/4 or halfway is enough.

 

Would this work? Fill radiator to top, screw on radiator cap to first click, put heater on and go for a drive for 15 min. Come back and top off radiator. By putting cap on first click, won’t that let the air escape the system?