Radiator Leak..Hose or Radiator

Its like 2.5" away.

 

I have cut many hoses with my every day carry knife fjust be sure to touch up the edge when your done.

IF You Can Change The Hose you can change the radiator why do you want to add a few hundred dollar bill for something simple.

To me removing the hoses and draining the coolant is the hard part of the job.

 

Replace both upper and lower hoses, radiator cap and coolant. Might as well do thermostat while you're at it - right there. While those factory clamps hold a lot of tension, they lose it over the years. After performing a maintenance flush of the coolant, I noticed a leak at the lower clamp similar to yours. Replaced the clamp with a new factory one and cleaned up the pink crusties. No issues since.

Heed this advice --->

 

Why is that?

 

over tighten and crack the fitting

 

Ah ok that makes sense

 

radiator! ~ 140k mine was shot. changed radiator, T-stat, all hoses, cap and water pump + transmission cooler.

 

Alright dumb question. When and how does fluid from the overflow reservoir get back into the radiator?

 

The radiator sucks from the reservoir through the tube as engine cools.
Unless your cap sucks too.

Get the Toyota radiator cap.
I think Stant is OEM.
You may have found why you had a leak ( BAD CAP )

 

Thanks haha. That makes sense.

I think the radiator is leaking very very slowly in some other places. Still trying to dig but I'm leaning more and more towards a new radiator. Should I go oem or there some other quality alternatives?

 

I am pretty sure the company that made the Radiator for Toyota in 2000 is no longer in business

Unless your into hard core off roading days from a real road Go with your favorite Autoparts store sells.

Radiators have a habit of getting damaged in shipping always inspect things at the store .

With the amount of damage claims no way would I order one on line unless It was a long term project and I had months .

 

Engine exhaust smell sweet ?
Water vapor from exhaust after normal warm up ?

 

Parts store radiators work fine for normal use. I ran one for quite a while. Recently put a bigger champion radiator and that has been a god send when the going gets tough. My coolant temps didn’t break 215 in Moab with ambient temps over 100 with the truck working pretty damn hard.

 

Yes actually, water in the exhaust tip and dripping on muffler . How'd you know and whats that mean? I hadn't noticed it before until the days where I left the truck idling for a bit to warm it up.

I've noticed a little bit of red sheen and wetness on the top of the radiator where there are little metal parts. Truthfully I spilled a few tablespoons of coolant there when working on it, and wasnt able to wipe it all up before it rolled down into the front facing part of the radiator so it may be that, but not sure. Haven't noticed and more dripping to the ground, and the hoses are clear, but a couple glossy paths on the inside of the skidplate looks like its dripped somewhere, but its hard to tell where

 

Sweet smelling exhaust and water vapor from tailpipe are symptoms of a blown head gasket. Keep a very close eye on coolant level.

 

Interesting. Just for clarification, what do you mean by vapor? And are we talking the same thing as the dripping from the tip and from the muffler?

I was already planning on having all the gaskets replaced this year thankfully.

And side question, what is usually replaced with a radiator. Radiator itself, upper hose, lower hose.. what else?

Thanks again for the help

 

Clouds are water vapor. A bad head gasket leak can blow sweet smelling clouds, produce bubbles at open radiator and engine oil like chocolate milk. Repairs require head removal, surfacing head, lapping valves at minimum.

 

Blown head gasket is ugly expensive business, even if caught early. Quick n dirty check for a blown head gasket (in addition to the above) is to drive for a fair bit-- 30 minutes minimum-- and then pull the oil fill cap. If there's milky goop on there, you probably have The Problem. In a cold engine, it's not uncommon to see a little gunk in there. Multiple short drives and cold weather can result in condensation inside the engine, including the oil cap. So it'll bake itself out under normal conditions, but continue to accumulate if there's an ongoing leak.

 

Yeah I'm prepared to spend some money. All new gaskets, valve adjustment while they're in there. Gonna do a drive tomorrow and take a look at that but in other news the radiator is definitely leaking haha. Will this radiator suffice?https://www.autozone.com/cooling-he...l/radiator/duralast-radiator-b1755/237369_0_0

It looks like there's a chemical test you can do you verify a blown head gasket as well?

 

Will it work? Yes. But if you have the ability to, ordering a DENSO radiator off rock auto or the such, I’ve been much happier with their products


There is a blown gasket tester. Napa usually stocks them, there are videos how to do it