Question on Yakima Rack system on ARE shell

Guys and gals...I purchased this complete set up....It has the tracks/rails, bars, Towers, etc....separate from he shell. My shell is used, rack is new.

Looking at the instructions, drilling into the shell. The supplied bolts don't look long enough to go through the shell. Are my eyes deceiving me?? Should I go out and just buy longer bolts?

Lemme know!!!! Thanks.


Here's what I bought.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261811676516?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

Hard to really respond w/out actually knowing the thickness of your shell & length of the supplied bolts . May need to just pick a sunny day and lay it all out & drill. If those bolts are too short, run to the hardware store for the appropriate length.

That link indicates it's a kit for a jeep, so the supplied bolts may be specific to that application.

 

It says jeep, but it's the only one Yakima makes for a shell or soft top. I asked this dealer if it works on camper shells, they said it is exactly what it was for. Seeing if anyone here has installed this system on their specific ARE shell.

 

Regardless, they'll either work or not. You could go buy bolts of varying lengths and return if not needed.

 

Yes, I know. They'll either work or not. Carrying babies on a time crunched schedule and between 2 jobs, I'm trying to limit unnecessary trips. I'm looking for someone who has installed this same rack, on an ARE. It would be nice if someone with this exact set up could chime in. But I appreciate your input.

 

and yes, I've searched. I found a post in 2011 and have sent a PM to that particular individual for his input.

 

ok...i'm just responding to the actual question you asked and proposing a solution.

Hope you get an answer soon.

 

Yeah..I have about an hour tonight between 6 and 7 where I can go...if I don't get the answer that I want I'll have that time to go do it. Hoping that my eyes are just playing tricks on me. thanks

 

Got my answer via PM. If anyone finds this thread while wondering my same question...here is his answer below. Stay on the outsides, there is a link to the construction of their shells on their website.

"Hey, hope I got back to you in time- I’m in the Philippines right now so twelve hours ahead of the US east coast. Anyways, my cap is a CX series but I’d assume they’re similar construction. I had the same question so I called ARE before mounting the tracks. Looking inside you’ll see that the fiberglass looks thicker in the middle/center of the flat section of the roof. If you look at ARE’s website, towards the bottom under “Product Info” then click on “construction” there is a drawing that shows reinforcing (labeled as F). This is a fiber type honeycomb that they use for strength but you should not drill through it as it is not designed to be compressed i.e. not through-bolting. The tracks should be mounted outside of this area on either side. http://www.4are.com/product/cx/

I’m not sure which hardware kit you got but Yakima makes a set of hardware specifically for mounting on truck shells. They call them Capnuts and the nuts are encased in a rounded plastic housing that won’t gouge your head open when you hit them. Ex. This is the 60" kit https://www.yakima.com/60-track-capnut-harware They are long enough to mount the tracks without excess bolt sticking out past the nut part. According to Yakima you do not need a bolt in every hole and the kit doesn't come with enough to put one in each track hole. Just space the out.

I taped off the areas where I wanted the tracks, measured, then measured some more, then using new drill bits, I drilled pilot holes then the correct sized holes. Remove the tape, put the tracks in place and use enough, but not excessive, silicon or even better 3M marine adhesive sealant, and start bolting it down. It is much simpler and better to have two people but can be done by yourself if you have to, just figure a way to hold the bolt still while you tighten the nuts from inside. Don’t over tighten the end bolts that also hold the plastic ramp ends or you will crush the plastic. Mine have been on since 2006 and still work great with no leaking despite my probably overloading it on occasion. The only thing I added was some large picture hanger D-rings under the end and middle bolts so that I could add a cargo net for lightweight items. Something like this: http://www.lowes.com/pd/The-Hillman-Group-4-Pack-D-Ring-Large-Picture-Hangers/3029190

 

You could also ask Bryan at A.R.E. He follows this forum from time to time and ask him what they receive and use from Yakima.

@areaccessories is his user...send him a direct message and maybe he can help with some details.

 

Maybe this info will help...my cap is an ARE X series for a shortbed. I had the rails installed at the factory.

Centerline of rails are 42" apart parallel

Here are the cap nuts underneath

Bolt used in the Yakima rail on my truck

Rail is sloped on bottom to match roof curve and provide level top for landing pad #1

Rails are 48" long

 

Excellent. thanks much

 

Done. The supplied bolts worked perfect.

 

I'm a mechanical engineer, and I just don't get this "reinforced roof" design on the ARE shells. Sure the honeycomb core makes the center of the roof much stiffer. As such, it probably helps a little to reduce overall deflection and stress when the roof rack is loaded. But with the rack loads fed vertically through the towers, into the thin part of the roof outboard of the stiffened section, is it really doing much? I realize the roof isn't a simply supported beam, so the ends do support a bending moment, but it still feels like like having a thick beam that's still thin at the ends, and that thickness just can't help much with overall bending stiffness or strength when the loading is two point loads over the thin parts. Any ME's out there who can set me straight? FYI, I have the same setup, with two Yakima round crossbars on my DCSB and a 130# rooftop tent, with no issues yet. But only a few hours and miles and one long washboard section, so far.

 

Thanks for posting. I'm getting a DCLB, and I'm considering a similar rack setup. I was leaning towards the ARE MX cap, but it looks like this setup provides for 4 bars at about the same height. To confirm what I see in the photos:

1. Is the cap an ARE CX?
2 Are the Yakima towers in the front Railgrab?
3. Do the bars all end up at the same height?

Thanks for the help.

 

1. Not sure..think it's a CX
2. Not sure what you're asking here. I have rail grabs on the factory rack. It's on top of the cab.
3. Bars on the shell are just slightly higher than the rail grabs on the cab. Can't tell much difference.

 

You answered your own question- the reinforced area is to strengthen the middle of the roof and stop it from vibrating or flexing/sagging (I'm not an engineer) while going down the road. Next time you're in a junk yard see if you can find any old, cheap fiberglass shells or even any sort of truck with a large flat fiberglass section that is not reinforced and take a look at the middle. The road vibration cracks the gel-coating and the choppergun fiberglass which can lead to leaking and rotting.

There are some shells made that are reinforced throughout to carry a load but when you think about it, even on a regular modern shell the tracks are mounted where the curve is just starting so you have a little extra strength plus the tracks help to distribute the load. It used to be common when folks first started mounting Yakima's and Thule's to fiberglass shells using the artificial rain gutters that they would put backing plates on to help distribute the load but they would still crack around the bolt holes.

Icepuck that came out looking really nice. The only suggestion I would make would be to swap out your bar end caps for some Yakima strap caps. They stay on better and also work nicely when strapping boats on:

Yakima - Strap Caps Spare Part for StrapThang Roof Rack Tie Down

https://www.amazon.com/Yakima-80050...d=1469893764&sr=8-1&keywords=yakima+strap+cap
I have my Viper mounted outboard of the towers to give myself more room for my canoe/multiple kayaks/whatever else I have up there but also because it's easier for me to get the bike up there. With a core lock in place it can't be removed so no worries.

Despite Yakima supposedly galvanizing the crossbars I've found that they will condensate and rust inside. When I had mine off at one point I pulled the end caps and dumped some leftover paint inside, rolled them around to coat the inside then let them dry. Mine have spent most of their lives on the truck parked outdoors and last time I saw them (over a year and half ago) the vinyl, plastic or whatever it is that covers the bars was cracking so they'll need to be repalced whenever I get back to the States. I always wiped them down with 303 when I’d wash the truck but obviously they just don’t like the UV and hot weather.

 

old post but this is golden
Have been looking for days for this info

Thanks you!

 

Which model of the "Yakima Landing Pads" are those?

 

It’s been a while since I had that setup, changed to a Prinsu rack because it sits lower, closer to the cap, but I think it is Landing Pad #1