QQ. What should be pressure of fuel RETURN line?

2.4L
My FP gauge shows 12-16lbs
Connected after FPR, before hard return line
Thanks for input

 

Unless the return is blocked or restricted (which you would see on the pressure side reading) it is irrelevant. Why are you measuring it?

 

The only place I could install (rubber fuel line)
Then as I became more familiar with truck, realized gauge on return line
Ugh

so return pressure irrelevant…understood
What would return line pressure be?

 

That side of FP reg is irrelevant.....
...that side would vary to all kinds of conditions....

To get an accurate FB press...you'd have to get on other side of the reg...
that is right on the rail...

Lc engineering sells a niffy gauge addon for the 2rz/3rz....but for $70....ouch..

https://www.lceperformance.com/Fuel-Pressure-Gauge-Kit-2RZ-3RZ-p/2019121.htm



You can buy all the stuff to tap in the banjo bolt at other end of the fuel rail...
still about $40 in parts...pia to install with new crush washers needed...

and you risk damaging the fuel line between the filter and the rail...
that old crunchy fuel hose cost about $200....and they only sell in about 3 places on the earth........non have cheap shipping...

Yota1 is the only one that had one of those in stock in the US...
other was Japan and Dubui....


wonder how I know all this......historical scars....
dont touch those hoses....except right at the filter.....and then tread lightly...
damn sure dont break that connector from the hardline coming from the tank/FB to the flex hose.....that double flare connection is problematic.

 

Other than on common rail diesels, I’ve never seen a spec for return fuel pressure. It either flows or it doesn’t.

 

Hmmm

just debating FP or injector(4) installs
(Which first…..hot no start condition)
I have all parts for both

except fuel rail crush washers

 

And testing fuel pressure only tells part of the story.....

a failing FR reg or pump might show good pressure.....and then choke at extended higher flow above idle..

 

Toyota Tacoma 2.4 2RZ, 2.7 3RZ, 4-Runner (CA Only) OE Replacement Fuel Injectors (fiveomotorsport.com)


Ive found 3 common causes for hot no restart....

In reverse order....

the charcoal canister system is pouring to much vapor into the intake...very rare...

then there's the leaky injectors....still pretty rare....unless they're aftermarket...

 

Wonder if one can purchase that aluminum part only

 

And the absolute worst one....

head gasket failing......
.....and worst worst X2 .....is cracks between the intake and exhaust valves in your head(s)

 

When it wont restart......pull a plug....
and keep pulling until you find the wet one(s)
it will have water or gas....

usually its cylinder 3 or 4....if its water...

and all it takes is one or two plugs wet for no start...


clean those plugs or keep a spare like I had to do once...
stick back in....and it'll start right up...
without all that coughing and choking.....

 

You'd be surprised how often this motivates someone to get rid of it...

This is actually the No1 reason we get new members here....

'I just bought my dream truck.....tacoma' ....but now I have a problem....

 

Yeah in the not so distant past....I had to keep these on speed dial....
on floorboard....right behind pass seat...




unless you like calling for ride......or dont mind buying starters...

 

It only cost me $5000 to fix it......

 

If you use the 'Barr's' original with plain water only.....you might be able to milk it another year...

but then you'll need a need radiator....and heat core if you dont block it off....

 

A firm OS

this will be the kid’s 1st vehicle
Going to ‘get taco mechanically sound’

^^^
Very possible that this is why I/son was gifted this 1996

Going to get it right.
So far, approx $750 for parts let’s say 7 weekends of labor
Not one oil leak after the work done

Now the injectors/FP next project

sooo
Let me ask you this
If after a 30min drive….i get home….truck cranks, no start…..I pull plugs and they smell like fuel/wet

Issue points to leaking injector(s)….correct?

 

Well the problem is .....if you start off with water....wet plugs....

you crank.....gas goes has nowhere to go.....so now you a have a very flooded cylinder(s)...


I'm kinda bias.... very rarely is it the injectors....


In my case I installed new injectors......which wasn't a bust....new injectors never killed anyone...
but for the $200 it did not fix my situation....

Have to pay attention to all the signs....

This was a progressive situation for me......at first I used to crank the crap out of it and managed coughing and choking to burn off the cylinder's and get it going..........of course I was cooking the starter, and almost draining the battery....

After having to leave the truck over nite at a family member...cranking until the battery was dead.....
.that's when I had to change my strategy....

Thats when I figured out to pull those back two plugs and dry them out sooner instead of later...
before the other cylinders were soaked....

And my biggest sign is it would not loose coolant out of the radiator, not much......then all of a sudden I'd loose a bunch of water in just one day.....

Bypassed the heater core and tried the 'Barr's stop leak.....carefully following the instructions....
and it would seal it for maybe 3 or 4 months....

Then it would start leaking again.....I repeated this cycle 3 or 4 times......I was buying time until I had a better strategy.

In the end I started getting the milkshake ......so I knew the radiator and engine bearings where compromised....

What I found out later....it probably wasn't the head gasket at all.....at least not total reason...

When you loose coolant at irregular amounts at different times......
Mostly likely thats a crack in the head(s)....cause it only leaks profusely at weird times....

At this point I had to make a choice.......either take what it takes to make this one right....

or cut losses.... sell....and then risk inheriting someone else's problem when I buy another truck....

My mom said......stand your ground and make it right.....she was right....

Fortunately, the stars realigned....at least for me.....

My boss had these crack mexican mechanics that did all the repairs for the note lot car dealers on south side of the city...

So I went shopping for block and head.......and didnt want to put a bunch old stuff back on........didnt want to risk the head crack thing again....
So I bought a new thicker aftermarket head....with a 3 yr warranty...

SO here we are.....trail by fire....

These trucks.....DO NOT EVER EVER EVER LET THEM OVER HEAT...the heads and/or gaskets cant take much.................................................

This was all about half a decade ago....since, I've systematically gone thru and replaced most everything on the truck ...tip to tip...
bushings alone was a 2yr effort...to get em all.......6mo alone studying videos and acquiring the right tools to do the rear wheel bearings/seals...timmy the toolman 'Mr coffee mod'.....

Youd be surprise all the deficiencies I found on it along the way...rusty, turn to dust needle bearings on two of three UJ's on the drive shaft...crimped brake line on a caliper from a passenger LBj failure sometime in the past...and on and on....

If these weren't so popular....so many parts available for.....so many taco howto vids.....and of course these guys here...
I would of been royally screwed.......driving some other piece of crap by now....
this is the reason I know the 2rz/3rz's.......couldn't care less about the 5vz's...would not buy those at all...not even in a Tundra....

Unfortunately most buy these, in the past anyways, and then just drive em into the ground.........they let em rot....

and so here we are...............only place I really screwed up...is I didnt replace the front seal on the tranny while the motor was out....

All that shifting around has given me a very slow drip....during the summer months when the atf fluid gets very hot on extended drives...
so now I go thru about a gal of aft over the summer months...Walmart techtron long life atf....


If you like working on trucks......well then....you got a good one........

Mine, It now drives and feels just a brand-new truck....like it just came off the lot...after about a 9K investment....plus 2K for the original truck....

I'm just shy of 17K on the new motor.......I change the oil every 2500mi or less....filter every 3rd change....