Price of a Used 1GR-FE Engine, Rebuildable?

What is a used 2006 200k mile running 1GR-FE with rod knock worth? I picked one up for free thinking I could rebuild it when/if mine ever bites the dust, or just sell it and buy some new tires. I’m reading the blocks can’t be bored or resleeved but don’t usually need to be anyway. Does this sound right?

 

@rheath08 just rebuilt his, idk what the total cost was but I believe he had it bored 0.5 mm over.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/1gr-fe-rebuild.743548/

 

I had no idea! Thanks for posting that. And to think I almost didn’t go get the engine because I read they aren’t rebuildable.

 

With a good machine shop they can put sleeves in. It will be on the pricey side. I think a rough quote was $1200ish. They have to bore out the old liner and machine in a recess for the flange on the liner.
If you need to go over on the bore max is .040" put that is cutting it close.
The crank l, if it needs to be machined under that is a common practice and there are bearing out there for it, just not factory. The crank is forged too.
Price wise on the rebuild, I did add mine up. Still scared to know.
I did splurge on a lot of upgrades though.

 

If it’s got rod knock you might get away with being able to just replace the bearings

There should be specifications on how to check clearance with new parts to make sure it’s good. Using tools like plastigauge. Dial indicator. Etc

you won’t know what’s messed up inside until you tear it apart and look.
You can buy a cheap engine stand from harbor freight and get started.

to keep track of which part goes where if you disassemble it and then walk away for a while forgetting, you can do things like paint mark. Label. Bag or boxes. Cardboard. Stuff on shelves.
Which shouldn’t be much because this simple old engine with no power stock probably has 3 moving parts

 

I had a blow head gasket 4.0 engine. Post it on Craigslist for $500.

 

I replaced the head gaskets on my 4.0 about 5 years ago and man, there’s a lot more than 3 parts in this SOB . I’ve rebuilt more old cast iron Jeep engines than I can shake a stick at but if I open a 1GR-FE I’m setting aside a full week followed by a therapy session. I’m either doing a full rebuild so I never have to touch it again or nothing at all.

 

Lol that bad? What was the worst thing for you? Just curious.

 

Doing it outside in December after work in the dark in a snowstorm was the worst part lol. It was like 10F outside. It’s a fairly complicated motor though, especially compared to a pushrod motor. 4 camshafts, one big timing chain, oil pressure driven valve timing, and lots of small parts. I don’t usually use manuals but I followed the FSM step by step for that.

 

OP, I'm curious why you think it has "rod knock" - which is such excessive rod bearing clearance that you can hear the rod journals banging at TDC and BDC. It's a very unusual condition, even more so on modern engines like ours.

If you don't know, then just mic the crank journals and rod big ends and let us know what you find.

 

It was a free engine on Craigslist. The guy said it had rod knock and instead of rebuilding it he replaced it.

I was kinda wondering if something else was wrong too tbh. On one hand I don’t want to mess with it right now, but on the other I want to tear it open to see its condition. The only likely reasons I could think of for it to get rod knock at 200k is if he didn’t change the oil or it spun a bearing…but I think he swapped the engine himself so he’s probably changing the oil regularly? I don’t know, I’m just excited to have a spare engine to go with my spare axles and transfer case. Now all I need is a spare 6spd transmission!

 

No knock against you - so you don't know anything about the engine or whether it has "rod knock." Get a set of inside and outside mics, do some due diligence, and let us know what you find. Otherwise this is all all an exercise in "what if."

 

A suggestion. If you decide to not tear into it, donate it to your local high schools auto shop class.

 

Do they still have auto shop class?? One local school shut down their industrial arts programs 20+ years ago.
(too dangerous for modern children probably )


OP: Get a Harbor Freight engine stand, don't disassemble the engine -- instead do some easy low cost assessment, pull the base pan and Plastigauge the bearings, inspect the crank, if they pass pull the rocker covers and have a look there.

 

Any updates OP

 

I graduated in 2011. We had auto mechanics, welding, carpentry, all kinds of stuff. There was an entire separate facility dedicated for it.

 

Dude a used FREE motor from Craigslist is going to have more problems than what he told you.

 

I’ve sold a couple engines with rod knock over the years—last 1GRFE I let go with a knock went for $300. As long as it’s not cracked or hydrolocked, someone always wants a rebuild project. A 1GRFE Engine For Sale that’s rebuildable is gold to the right buyer.