Preparing to install new brake lines and flush

Alright guys, the extended front and rear lines from HeadStrong are here, am I'm ordering Motul DOT 5.1 to flush the system.

I called a few shops to get an idea and most of them wanted $500-$600, which seems insane to me... So now I'm contemplating doing it myself

My main worries are:

1. Blowing up the master cylinder
2. Flushing the system
3. Bleeding the system since it has ABS.
4. Blowing up the master cylinder
5. Dying from hitting a tree when my brakes implode due to me messing up.

How does one flush and bleed the system without making the MC/ABS explode?

 

Best way I found on an SR5 is to use a vacuum hand pump.

 

Is this a tool I buy or a tool I rent?

 

Installing brake lines is easy, I did front and rear on my 04 in a few hours and only because the clips holding the line in place are such a pain to get off on the 1st gens. But if I can do it, anyone can...I don't have a whole lot of wrenching experience.

Bleeding the system is easy if you have a helper...have one person sit in the truck and pump the brakes a few times, then you loosen the bleeder valve and let the fuid spray out (into a container). Do this several times on each of the 4 corners of the vehicle and make sure you don't let the brake fluid reservoir get too low during the process.

Also there are kits available at auto parts stores to DIY brake bleed but I've never used one of those.

 

Okay, is this the same process if I want to flush the system?

 

Uh... maybe I’m dumb, but I thought our trucks spec dot3/4? Will 5 cause issues?

 

I could be wrong but I would say that it is...if you intend to flush then you want to be more thorough with it and make sure you get all of the old fluid out, so keep topping off the reservoir as you go until there is nothing but new brake fluid in it and clear brake fluid coming out the bleeder valves when you're bleeding them.

 

Might be a good idea to have a Haynes Manual on hand for this.

https://haynes.com/en-us/

 

It’s very simple to flush out the lines by yourself and by just using 3/16 id clear tubing and a clear plastic bottle. You don’t need to invest in any device that hooks up to the master cylinder.

YouTube has a dozen videos on “ one man brake flush”.

 

I've used the Harbor Freight bleeder vacuum 5 times (connected to a medium 120 psi compressor) and never had an issue with air staying stuck in the line. That said, its a very very slow bleeder for those rear brake line runs, and its cumbersome having to route the air-line around each corner. I'd suggest considering using a miti-vac manual bleeder as well since its easier to set up.

I had speed bleeder screws on another vehicle - that was a flawless, one-man bleeding method.

The truck also has a method of using its ABS pump to automatically cycle the fluid, but I've never felt comfortable out of concern of letting the master cylinder reservoir out too quickly without knowing. Maybe with two guys (one watching the fluid level) its not too bad.

 

Make sure you push the caliper pistons in as all the shit/ contaminants are resting behind the caliper pistons...

 

MOTUL is great stuff but maybe over kill, there are some over the counter brake fluids DOT 3 or 4 that are good and cheaper in price , LUCAS DOT 3 has a very good wet boil rating 339 is available at AUTOZONE. you want a high wet boiling point number https://www.lelandwest.com/brake-fluid-comparison-chart.cfm

 

+1 on performing more involved caliper service. I simply pushed mine back in using the 'screwdriver' method, and ended up with partially seizing pistons after a few months. Sometimes the braking is buttery smooth, other times I get terrible wheel shake. Rotors are flat, but the pads show uneven wear. So new seals and a rebuild is in order (not donating my good calipers to advanced or rockauto or autozone). All Lexus and Toyota trucks have heavy duty calipers, so they need a bit more service work beyond simply pushing in the piston.

+1 Motul RBF 5.1 is overkill - I had this in my rav4 for 5 years. Yes, it makes the brake pedal 'feel' much more precise and linear, but when i had to swap a caliper w/ frozen guide-pin last summer, I ended up flushing using 3x bottles of $4 Prestone DOT4. Brake pedal feel was identical to Motul RBF 5.1, and it still feels very linear 10 months later. I still have Motul RBF in the Tacoma, but will be using the same Prestone when replace my caliper seals.

 

That's what I was thinking but I didn't know if this was the legit way or the "ghetto" way.. haha

I really want a service manual like I had for my old 93 Accord. Is this a good one to get?

Isn't the problem that the ABS will freak out?

Wow that's automatic method sounds cool although I agree I would worry about the fluid. Would be to watch it like a hawk.

So what does the vac do? Just pull a vacuum on the lines?

Are you sure this is safe?

Well I can get 5 bottles of it for like... 40 bucks so figured this wasn't too bad.

Is there Write up for the caliper seals? That sounds important.

I'll look up the Prestone, I read a lot of good reviews and the Motul and the price wasnt too bad for 5 jugs.

 

Yes.

 

It might be 'ghetto' lol but it's the tried and true way of bleeding brakes that people have been doing for years, I'm sure there are some expensive kits out there that make it faster/more efficient but this method will still work just as well, just might take more time.

 

I've been driving around without brakes for about 6 months now it's safe

 

Check YouTube videos for caliper seal replacement on Tacoma, 4Runner and Tundra. Hardest part is working the pistons out. Well, and also figuring out what $20 Toyota seal kit to buy since there are like 6 different part numbers of the same or similar kit.

Some guys are going to say just get some reman calipers, but I’ve been reading way too many reviews about how they leak out the center seam. And Rockauto now charges me tax (and return shipping for the cores) - so they are no longer my standard go-to for parts.

 

Eventually you’ll run into something to stop!

 

I've been waiting