Premium Audio Upgrade for less than $250

This thread walks through all the factory head units:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/3rd-gen-entune-radio-head-unit-comparison.682700/


In way of speaker swaps only:

I believe the consensus is, that if you have a base or plus head unit, the only thing worth doing are the dash tweeters. These head units can't drive better speakers, as they don't have enough power to take advantage of the better speakers.

If you have a premium non-JBL unit (like me), you can do the front doors, too. There is no reason to do the rear doors, because practically no power is delivered to the rears. (Do the fader test and you'll see nothing comes from the rear.) This thread applies. Sound deadening helps.

If you have a JBL head unit, your upgrade path is different.

 

This is a great summary and it's also confirmation of my understanding of the thread. Thank you for that.

I think I was holding out a little too much hope that I didn't end up with such a crappy radio

 

Normally, i stay out of this thread. But I’ll tell you why you have “screaming” highs. @BIGW0RM , you have 4 tweeters up front, with 2 midbass. Tweeters are the most efficient speaker, so they are normally attenuated with a midbass. You have one that operates normally, and one that is full on!

@ULURU , you didn’t say if the KS are component midbass or coaxial. If they’re co-ax, that’s your issue. If they are just the midbass, you have a tweeter designed for factory power, and a midbass designed for amplified power. Turning up the volume is the only way you have to get the midbass, to the pain of your ears with the tweeter.

Hipe that helps a little.

 

@ZMan2k2 My KS front doors are 3-way 6x9. Subarus in the dash. If there was too much treble, I assume I could simply cut the feed to the 6x9 tweeters and be don't with it, but for me, not the case. Before, highs seems muffed. Now they are clear.

As I stated before, the installation I have now goes way above stock.

When I listen to the radio, perfect.

When I have the iPod plugged in (most of the time), I am at the mercy of the mp3 being played, and if it's been normalized and how its been equalized. I expect this.

My only complaint is about the factory head unit, which I can't justify changing. I drive maybe 5000 miles a year. Power to the rear should be 2x power to the front out of the box. It's not . And w/o $$$, that won't change.

I've been driving for 30+ years. In my '78 Buick, '89 Olds, and my '06 Ford, the rears always delivered... That has changed. My ears need to get used to it.

 

Sounds like you’re someone who knows what they want. Don’t band-aid the problem, rip out the headunit! But that’s a discussion for another time.

 

I'd need a head unit that automatically adjusts gain and equalization to my liking, track by track, source by source, without me programming it, and without the had unit knowing I've never heard it... It should just know. Maybe Entune 4.0...

For now, I'll stick with the upgrade I've done...

If I was 25, maybe I'd rip it out. But I am no longer 25... I have other things to spend money on.

In my world, everything would be offered on a 45 rpm single, and I could digitize it to my hearts content. Unfortunately, big media no likie....

 

Well, I’m almost 50 ( ), and I’m still in this game like I’m 16! But it’s my hobby. Used to golf and hike, but arthritis killed that, and I’ve always been into audio. I drive more now as well, being retired, so for me it was a natural move. I’m ALWAYS tweaking and changing things, much to my wifes’ chagrin. But everyone needs a hobby, right?

To rip media, I use dbPoweramp. There are tons of applications that rip as well. Maybe, before you throw more money around, look for a ripping app that has a gain adjustment for tracks. You’re definitely looking at a time investment, but it could help. Even using Spotify, it has a “volume normalization “ function to it.

 

Pulled the trigger on the Subaru dash tweeters and the Kicker

$130 Kicker 46CSC6934 Kicker CS Series 150 Watt 6 x 9" Car Audio Coaxial Speaker Pair, Black

Kicker 46CSC6934 speakers for the doors. Hoping it'll make for some needed improvements.

 

it will. While you have your door panels out- out sound deadening mats in there too! Make sure and get a plastic body clip tool also. Makes the job a cinch. Go slow and you wont bust clips
Some will say theres no improvement- and most say theres a great improvement. I say its great- but i swear that it got better over time, after speaker break in.
Play em loud and with lots of bass to get them broke in good for a bit

Check out my post in this thread #4450

 

Did the DS18 speakers last week and wasn't all that impressed after the install. The next day I got to spend more time in the truck with various music and things opened up to where I actually enjoy listening to the radio at higher volumes; where in the past I didn't care to turn it up much past 15.

Planning on replacing the all 4 speakers with Morels and powering them with the small Alpine amp. It already sounds as good as the lackluster Rockford Fosgate "premium" stereo that was in my Nissan Titan.

 

Checking back in. I changed out the tweeters to the Kicker OEM Subaru units and the front door speakers to the Kicker 6x9s. Initially I wasn't too impressed, but as many said, let them break in. In about a week or two I really noticed the lows of the Kicker 6x9s and I enjoy turning up the volume more now. Did not bother with the Access Cab doors as I faded them all the way to rear and only 20% of volume is programmed to come out. So unless you are running an amp, don't bother with back door speaker replacements.

 

yeah i agree- i did my rears and didnt really notice anything from them. My next step is to get an amp and sub for behind the back seat or under my seat

 

added an updated Sony XAV-AX7000 that has a built-in amplifier - definitely brought the door speakers alive. Also realized how easily the Rockford P900-8P fits into the cubie behind the rear passenger seat, without having to remove the storage box or anything. It isn't going to give you earth-shattering bass, but definitely fills in the low-end well for a reasonable price. I figure unless you are really going to spend some money, its pretty hard to get that kind of bass out of a slim-line sub.

 

Just did the Kicker tweeter swap out and I can already tell this is going to completely change how my truck's audio sounds. Very excited to do the doors

 

That's exactly what I'm thinking. I don't know why people even suggest putting coaxials the doors
That's way too many tweeters.
I'm looking at this set currently, looks like they come with proper brackets too.
Kicker KSS269 component 6x9s

KICKER KSS269 6x9 (160x230mm) and 2.75" 2-Way Component System, 4ohm, RoHS Compliant

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NFJMD4T
Or these JBL Stadium GTO960C 6x9

JBL Stadium GTO960C 6x9 High-Performance Multi-Element Speakers and Component System

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0767QK14B
Also thinking of scrapping the aftermarket crossovers since the head unit already has a crossover in it

 

The insultingly awful and cheap sound system in the tacoma is just another reason why I hate the new tacoma. Today the Android auto audio stopped working altogether. I'm pretty much ready to take the hit and trade it back for old 4runner. Basically car manufacturers are screwing up big time.

 

Android Auto can be flaky. Sometimes the cable is the problem and sometimes it can be an update that caused it. Are you using the cable that came with the phone?

 

I got it to work, just needed to restart the car and app. Annoying.
I actually use a high speed usb 3.1 cable so that should never cause issues. It's more of a software thing. The drivers they put in those head units are usually outdated by a decade.
I'm pretty sure I'll be changing out the whole head unit eventually, just waiting for more options.

 

I ended up changing out the head unit and it made a dramatic difference. Android auto still gives me issues like music stuttering sometimes but it is dependant on the phone I am using. It is also wireless AA and Car Play which adds in more complexity. Car play on the other hand is much more reliable but there is just something I don't like as much as AA.

 

I have the kicker KS components hooked up to a kicker key 200 amp. Stock head unit. Sounds ridiculously good. Super happy with it.