Pre pressed bearing and hub assembly options.

2000 4wd tacoma @ 250000 kms.

Would the Dorman 950-001 work? https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-87449-950-001.aspx

If not, what other low cost options are there?

 

No

1st Gen Tacoma wheel bearings and axle hubs get pressed into the spindle.

The part you're looking at is for a 2nd/3rd Gen setup.

You'll need to get your spindle off, get everything pressed out, and new components pressed in.

Plus side is that koyo or timbren bearings aren't expensive.

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,2000,tacoma,3.4l+v6,1364723,brake+&+wheel+hub

So, under the 'brake and wheel hub' section of rockauto , i can get by with just buying something from the 'wheel bearing' section instead of 'wheel bearing and hub' section? Ofcouse ill need the wheel seals and circlips...

And assuming its the 35mm for the axle nut right?

 

Well, unless your wheel hub is damaged, no reason to replace it. Just replace the bearings and all other associated components.

As for the axle nut, it's 35 or 36mm, and this is assuming you have ADD. I say this because manual hub was standard on 1995.5 to 2000 Tacoma 4x4 trucks, and ADD was an option.

 

Make sure you get 4wd bearing you'll need to find out if you have ABS or not. The hub is hit or miss. They are technically reuseable but it's easier to replace them so you don't have to cut the race off. You'll also need a press or take it to a shop. YOTA1 sells pre pressed together knuckles but its $1200. While the knuckles off now would be a great time to do upper ball joints.

 

If the FW bearing race gets stuck on the hub, no sweat, just split it off with a sharp cold chisel. With a sharp cold chisel and a hammer in hand, all I usually need is 60 seconds to split the bearing race off the hub. But I have 56 years' experience splitting bearing races off hubs/axles/shafts/etc. The OEM hub is of much higher quality than the CHINA aftermarket parts. I am on my 5th set of FWBs with 27 years' experience on my '97 V6 Taco 4x4 and am still using the original OEM hubs from 1997. I post here with over 2 1/2 decades of personal hands-on experience with 1st Gen Taco MTX.

OP,
If going with aftermarket bearings and seals, use National or Timken. Both are very good quality parts. National bearings/seals from Rockauto are approx. $210 shipped. Timken parts are a bit more. And the highest quality OEM Toyota/Koyo parts which I used were approx. $280 shipped from Partsouq. Just finished painting my assembled knuckles before installing the OEM inner CV axle seals for the reman OEM blue code/manual hub CV axles courtesy of our member zippsub9: (For Sale: 4x4 Manual Hubs, Spindles, Knuckles and CVs | Tacoma World). .02

 

may i pick at your experienced knowledge base and your 25+ year gen1 taco MTX
or do i need to pay you some good coin like so many places (in my area at least) demand these days
i have had 3 wheel bearings on the front left go bad on my rig in the past several years, the last one could've killed me with a wheel collapse at very high freeway speeds with a wobbly wheel i was not truly aware of until a personal inspection after coming back from the yota dealershop with a bizarre braking issue
some places i checked into said i MUST replace the hub, others have said not necessary
recently i found some truth as to WHY these places say you need to replace hub (over 200$ OEM at MSRP for that part alone)
but none of these shops explained exactly why it is truly necessary, which confused me a bit why they would not mention this

 

If any amount of water gets to the Taco FWB, it will fail quickly. I routinely off-road in deep sandy mud/high water which is super-tough on seals/bearings. This is why I go thru FWBs rather quickly. But when a bearing fails prematurely, I want to know why. Any of the high quality FWBs such as the OEM/KOYO, aftermarket KOYO, or Timken should last for many years as long as they were installed properly. But if the bearing is "bruised" while installing it, the bearing will probably fail prematurely. I had a Toyota dealership change both FWBs and the bearings were noisy from the start. Off course they said that was normal which is just BS. I suspect that they pressed the hub in without properly supporting the bearing. A well-respected full-time auto repair shop pressed both Taco FWBs in backwards. Both those bearing failed within 2 years. You can also crack the FWB by pressing it into the knuckle incorrectly. Putting moly grease on the bearing and inside the knuckle makes pressing Taco FWBs much easier. If a high-quality Taco FWB fails prematurely, the first thing I suspect is a faulty installation. .02

 

You don't have to replace the hubs. Like @leid said you can cut the race off and use a chisel to split it and they come off. It's not a safety thing as it is just wanting a new one. A new hub means a clean flange and new wheel studs and you don't have to cut the race off and risk damaging it. As for your repeat failures, what brand wheel bearing are you using? Whos is pressing them? I'd almost wonder if the knuckle was bent which could apply uneven force onto the bearing causing a hot spot and failure.

 

Lots of info on the process here:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=TZ2sOfVrnhU

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=1TpOYj0sUpA

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Dj-2IzO9RFk

 

the reason i heard after several years of listening for the reason that a new hub replacement is recommended and even forced by many shops (including dealershops)
is the extreme heat of bearing failure may possibly scar the hub and warp it ever so much that a new bearing will have premature failure on the scorched warped hub
not sure how one would test for that? Might be in the FSM with a dial indicator run-out tool or something?

another dealer tech in Texas also mentioned the knuckle might be damaged
and was the reason for the slight knock knock on the wheel at the 12 and 6 check
that slight knock knock lasted a very long time before complete failure (about 100k miles)