PowerTray and S-Tech Install

I've seen it happen too many times. For instance, I had a wire that was laying close to a copper line on my house air conditioner. One day, no AC. The insulation had rubbed off of the wire by vibrating against the copper and the current ate a hole in the copper. The freon evacuated to the atmosphere. An expensive lesson.

 

WOW this was a great NOTE from a customer Brian from UT Toyota 4 Runner STECH 4 Carbon Fiber Amber LED

 

@porterx I don't think the wires are close enough to rub to the point of wearing through, even over an extended period of time...like years. It'll be fine.

 

You're probably right but I wouldn't take that chance. A piece of rubber and a couple of rubber bands would give me piece of mind if it were mine.

Down the road, someone, not thinking, lays a tool on them, they bend a little and months later...

 

I recently purchased the Universal system with the Tacoma mounting hardware (not knowing there was a Tacoma specific syste with 24" cable). Would you advise against not cutting the battery cable to make it shorter (asking cause of warranty)? I haven't gotten around to installing my system yet. I've been looking for this exact way of setting up my accessories minus the Blue Sea Fuse box (still trying to figure out if I can do this exact set up with just the power tray, bus bar, and terminal block). Glad I stumbled upon this thread.

 

I don’t think it will void the warranty but you can always try calling and asking Scott.

Cutting the cable wasn’t too bad. We just needed to resolder them back together and ensure the accessory line was not included.

You don’t need the fuse block. I only use it for devices that have their own switched power like my HIDs which run off the head light switch and the radio which has its own on off button. Or for devices that don’t need a relay or require constant power.

 

Thanks for the response. That's kinda what I figured about the fuse block but wasnt sure. I too have HIDs installed, but would probably just leave my current set up alone. I don't have any experience with wiring like this but doesn't look too bad...only thing that I'd be hesitant to do alone would be to solder the battery wiring...maybe I can find a buddy to help. Do you have any issues getting into the fuse box with the power tray? Doesn't look like it from the pictures.

 

Having an extra pair of hands will help. You can try crimping but I found mixed results with it. I put the terminals in a vice and heated it with a torch and melted the solder in the terminal end and then my buddy dunked the wire in.

The power tray does somewhat block fuse access. If you look at Max’s photo with the red arrow you c an see the front corner of the power tray over the fuse box.

It’s not a huge deal but something to consider when trying to access the fuse panel. Hopefully you don’t need in there much.

 

flaquita13 Sorry I was delayed in responding. I added my cell # and email address to the thread to offer quicker responses but this question was added to the thread instead. As with any electrical device from any manufacturer, if you modify STECH and the modifications lead to a Warranty issue there would (in theory) be no coverage. We do not recommend cutting and modifying the wires in our Power Control Module (PCM) . With a 5 year no questions asked Warranty Return Buyer Protection Plan that we offer I hope you can respect that position.
Having said that we offer a Toyota Specific Kit that has the following:

• (1) 20" 12V main cable 10ft separate Red Accy wire that exits the PCM on its own in a protective sheathing
• (1) Toyota TACOMA / T4R specific black powder coated PCM mounting bracket
• Complete set of POD Labels including Toyota and Tacoma specific POD labels
• (1) Toyota specific Installation Guide.

Optional but strongly recommended

• (1) 60 amp re-settable breaker with 24" battery cable extension

For 16-19 Tacomas we offer a Optional Drivers Left Cubby adapter to mount the POD at 50% off (05-15 Tacomas do not have this Cubby so we offer a POD FLIP at the same 50% off with the purchase of the Kit.

FLAQUITA if you want to return your unused STECH Universal POD and upgrade to a Tacoma Specific Kit we will do that for you. Simply go online and order the new kit. Please call my cell at 720-307-7263 and I will make the arrangements to issue a RA # and Credit details on your new order once we receive your exiting unit back.

If you decide to cut your 12 V main cable to your desired length be sure to use proper industry standards and double check all solder joints. (you can use the piece you cut off as a 24" extension or buy one from us with your 60A breaker), for your protection we suggest purchasing the 60AMP breaker (use promo code FREESHIPPING)

Remember we do not recommend modifying STECH in any way. If you have a Warranty related issue related to the modification you have made modification the Warranty may not apply.

Look forward to hearing from you
Scott
and the TEAM at STECH


T4R 14-19

 

Stupid questions: Is the point of the fuse box just to connect items you don't want controlled by the S-TECH system? Then anything you want controlled by the S-TECH goes on the terminal block? Also why the separate busbar if you are grounding each item separately and you can ground your none S-TECH controlled items to the integrated busbar in the fuse box? Thanks!

 

@zeropresence you are right about the separating the power between switched and non-switched. The separate ground bar for the STech is just to keep it clean looking and separate. I kept it that way so I know what is wired to what in case I want to remove something.

 

I need the RemindMe! 6 months bot for this one lol

 

I just wanna put this out there and say Scott @STECH Switch Systems is the best! Not only did he answer my call probably outside normal business hours but he answered all my questions and offered to exchange my unused universal unit I had just received in the mail, not knowing there was a Tacoma specific unit the with accessory wire separated. This is why I stick with certain brands...customer service. And what's better, is the fact that their products are made right her in Colorado. Stay local!

 

Hey yall, this corona quarantine has finally allowed me to work on my truck. I got the stech system installed, everything works great but I cannot seem to get my accessory lights to work. My rear light bar doesn't work at all and my front worked for a few seconds then shut off. No popped fuse or anything. Anything I should look for that I could be doing wrong?

 

Not sure but I believe one switch is rated for different amperage to handle higher output. Maybe bad ground

 

the light bar is just a single row 10" and the other is a single row 40". The ground is the location right next to the fuse box on the fender area.

 

Only thing I can think of is the ground

 

Are each one of the 6 leads rated for 30amps and 600watts or do they vary?

 

Not sure, I can check the manual when I go home, but this is what I found so far.

 

Looks like each channel is rated for 30 amps but all 6 combined are rated at 72amps