Power Steering where to start...

Preliminary Info:

Veh: 2010 DCSB
Mileage: 104,000
Searched Tacomaworld? Yes

After coming home from a drive on Saturday, I saw evidence of a leak under the cross member (leak is brand new), found it to be power steering fluid as it was the only fluid that was low. I usually do my own work, however I just moved back to the states from Europe and only have 1 vehicle and need this figured out ASAP so I took it to my mechanics shop (he is out on vacation, I trust him) where one of the other techs took a look. I suspected a leaking hose from my searches and the location of the dripping fluid. The tech says it is a leaking line but I will need a new rack, compressor and lines (lots of rust). I don't believe all that to be true, I believe it is just one of the lines. I have not seen a step by step or very detailed pictures in my search on how to replace the lines. I have access to a lift at the automotive place on base but I'm hesitant to start this and I can't afford to have my mechanic replace everything. I also don't want to put a bandaid (stopleak) on this. Suggestions, ideas? Thanks

TLDR
- Powersteering leak, one of the lines
- Mechanic says whole system (compressor, rack etc) needs replacing
- short on funds, will do the work myself
- need pictures or step by step
- thoughts our ideas on how to proceed

Thanks

 

If it were me, and I knew for sure it was in fact a leaking hose then I would just buy the hose and replace it.
I have heard that if the rack is leaking at the seals then you are better off replacing the rack as opposed to rebuilding.

 

I was thinking about replacing the lines first, if the leak continues then do the rack.

 

I'd put it on the lift. Get some brake cleaner and clean everything with signs of ps fluid on it. Drop it down, start it, lift it back up and look for the leak. Wear safety glasses at a minimum. A full face shield would be best in case it is a high pressure line.
Then get parts.

 

If it was the lines that are on the rack itself, not the return and high pressure, are those repairable/replaceable?

 

Doesn't appear to be.

https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/sh...sembly=492299&ukey_make=1060&ukey_model=15453

 

Steering rack is not a fun job - if its a basic leak, I'd first -

1. Do a basic Power Steering flush with some Dex III (whatever power steering fluid, which is ATF, thats spec'd in the Owner's manual) until all the fluid is cherry red again. Make sure to get a thin-tube baster - the Power Steering reservoir has a small ridid hole and you can't just stick a $2 baster in it unfortunately. Take as much out as possible, replace the same amount, start the engine, then turn the steering wheel lock to lock 3 times...repeat until 1 quart of fresh ATF has been added into the steering system.

2. Add some Power Steering 'stop leak' treatment (either STP or Lucas) - if its a basic leak at one of the fittings, this might be good enough to stop the leak.

If you end up needing to replace the rack, also consider replacing the intermediate steering shaft to also address the rusty U-joint issue.

 

I'd find out where it's leaking first before I started replacing parts. The tubing that is part of the rack rarely leaks. Hoses do from movement, fluid to rubber rot and hardening.

 

So I put ‘er up on the lift and poked around. Looks like I got a leak and some pretty bad rust on the rack right and left steering tubes as well as a small hole. So I’m going to see if I can get an old rack and replace the tubes or have a shop fabricate them as Toyota doesn’t sell those parts.

 

Well I'll be! Now that was some mild steel since it was full of oil.

I guess it shouldn't be surprising after seeing a LOT of oil pans on fishing boats rust away.

 

I mean... they usually rust from the outside, where the oil isn't... or at least where it wasn't.

 

but where it now....is.

it's a built in rust stopper.

hmmmm, oil filled frames

 

I’ve flushed my power steering fluid several times but I never start the engine to do it. I just jack up the front end and turn the steering wheel without the engine running.

 

This is an relatively easy job. You do not need the engine running. You do need the front wheels off the ground though. The only real pain in the ass part of this job is emptying the reservoir without making a mess.
I parked The truck and turned the wheel fully to the right, then shut it off. Once the reservoir was drained,and capped and refilled and the wheels were off the ground, I moved the passenger side wheel to cycle the fluid through the system. The first time I did this, I went from lock to lock to lock. pushing the wheel to a full left turn and pulling it back to a full right turn. The reservoir was empty. Just move the wheel in one direction and then refill the reservoir.
I used an inexpensive vacuum pump to remove the fluid from the reservoir. And you can find caps for vacuum ports at most any parts store. I find kits that have several different sizes and one of those made a perfect cap for the return line nipple on the reservoir body.

 

Did you ever have luck finding someone to fabricate new lines? I just found a leak in the exact same spot...6 weeks after replacing the supply and return lines.

 

https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem...L-CRADKA)&Location=power-steering-tube,,44410

 

I found a shop near me that will fabricate those lines. I didn’t end up using them because I was able to get a take off rack and use the lines from it. I found I needed to remove the rack to get access to the lines by the way.

You can buy flared metal line by the way. If you know how to bend it and know the thread pitch of the flare nuts it could be done.

Be patient while doing this and if you get metal bits in the fittings used compressed air to get it out.

This is not what he is looking for. He needs the metal lines on the rack itself.

 

This isn't helping the OP. But as a little preventive maintenance...I do a suck and fill of the reservoir at every oil change with Valvoline Maxlife.

Years ago I bought a battery syringe from Autozone for about $5. It's perfect for doing a fluid swap.