Power Steering Leak??

Hi all -

So I went to use the truck yesterday, and noticed a new sound coming from under the hood. It seemed to be associated with the steering. I drove it around a little, but then parked it at home. I popped the hood, and with the engine running I had someone turn the steering wheel. The sound was coming from the steering pump.

So I searched the internet, and the first thing to check was the fluid level. The reservoir was black. So I cleaned it off with some Windex and a paper towel. It was low. I got a ride to the parts store and he set me up with ATF fluid. I filled it up, and worked the steering a bit, and now the sound is gone.

First question - Is ATF fluid the right stuff?

Second - I don't think the fluid evaporated. There was a lot of oil everywhere, but the truck is 120k miles and 13 years old. Where are the common points to check for leaks?

The steering rack was replaced once already. I plan to change the oil this weekend and will have it up on ramps, so I can crawl under it and look for leaks. I'm thinking its either the pump or the rack. I do need to get an inspection sticker for it, and I am assuming that a leak will flunk it. (state of NH)

I'm also going to drive it some today and am expecting the fluid level to drop. This will confirm it's a leak.

Anyway, thanks for your time and any advice you can give me.

- Brian

 

Yes ATF is the same as p/s fluid. You should check the lines as they can deteriorate and crack, sometimes forming a small leak. It could also be possible the rack wasn't fully bled and it just took in the required amount of fluid from reservoir.

 

Most Tacos will have seepage onto the steering rack boots. That one’s pretty normal and usually not worth changing out the rack as it will often reappear anyway. It’s usually such a slow leak that your fluid level won’t change appreciably for quite a while. But if you’ve got oil everywhere, it’s likely to be more than that. Does it look like it’s being slung around?

 

The rack was replaced about 8 years ago. If it was not bled right then why would it use the fluid now?

I am going to get a better look at everything today. If I replace the rack again, it will need an alignment and I just had an alignment last summer. So I'm kinda hoping it's the pump. If it's a slow leak I would think it's a safety issue anyhow, and I'm going to have to fix it. Right now all I know is the fluid went missing.

Thanks all.

- Brian

 

8 years is about right for the rack seals to leak... Sooner if you go through water or mud often off-road (rust on the rack output shafts wears out the seals more quickly).

I don't hear about leaking pumps as often. However, the timing cover near the pump is known to leak oil, making a mess. Re-sealing the timing cover is a big job. It isn't related to your problem, though.

 

Ok, so today I drove around town for 20 or so miles. No noise. I just checked the reservoir. Its about 1/2 empty. So it's more than a little leak.

Tomorrow it's going up on ramps, change the oil and filter, and try to find the leak. Should be easy to spot if it's that bad. I'll check the timing cover too, but that's a separate issue that I hope I don't have.

- Brian

 

Very common for 2nd gen power steering system to leak from the hard lines that connect the reservoir to the rack. They attach to the front cross member with a bracket/bolt that corrodes at this connection. Pull off your skid plate/splash shield and check this spot first.

I just had to do mine due to this spot. Called toyota parts and he was like “oh yeah, they all fail at that spot”.
The bad news is they only sell the hard lines/hoses as an package/assembly and it’s like $250-350 depending on dealer pricing . I’m sure you can rig up an alternative but I coughed it up.
This is where I got mine:
https://parts.lynchtoyota.com/oem-p...jb21hJnk9MjAwOSZ0PWJhc2UmZT00LTBsLXY2LWdhcw==

 

Ok. So basically below the serpentine belt but above the shields. I'll check there too.

Thanks.

- Brian

 

Yes. Directly where the bolt holds the hard lines to the crossmember.

 

Well - The oil and filter are changed anyway.

After taking a really good look, the leak seems to be from item 6 in the drawing above. The oil is not tossed all around in the engine compartment, and it does not seem to be coming from the steering rack. Also, the neighbor came over, had me start the engine, and crank the steering. He confirmed it's seeping from line 6.

So anyway - I went to the AutoZone to pick up more ATF fluid. He check prices and the line that is leaking can be had for 82.99. The second hose for 46.99. He can have them in about a day. I may replace both while I'm at it, and the prices seem reasonable. Once I acquire the parts - install them - test them - power wash everything - check for leaks - I'll go get my inspection sticker.

Pics -

 

Wow look at that rust

 

That's not that bad for 13 years of driving in New Hampshire winters. They are starting to use less salt here and finding alternatives. Massachusetts still uses a lot of salt, and most of my work is there.

I should have the parts in today. I have been keeping an eye on the reservoir, and it seems to be leaking slowly now. But there is always a puddle in my driveway when I park the truck.

I'm also going to see what they have to slow the rust. They have a rust dissolver and a rust reformer. I'm al little hesitant to use anything because I undercoated my 98 taco when it was new and it got recalled anyway.

 

I went to AutoZone today. One line was there, and I think it was the one leaking. I'm still waiting for the other line. I don't think it makes sense to replace one, bleed it all out, then replace the other, and bleed it again. Dude said FedEx lost it, and ordered me another. No charge.

 

I finally have all the parts. I jacked the car up and took off the drivers side front tire. I'm not sure how I am supposed to get a wrench in there. My neighbor is a mechanic and will help me out tomorrow. As best I can tell is you would have to take the CV joint out to have access. If I have to take the suspension apart I may be better of taking it to a shop, and admitting defeat. There is a limit to what I can do in my driveway.

 

Maybe these threads will help

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-change-the-rack-and-pinion-steering-2nd-gen-v6.293781/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/05-v6-tacoma-steering-rack-bushing-replacement.289436/

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/source-to-replace-rusty-ps-lines.631719/

You don’t have to remove the cv joint or anything other than the skid plate. It’s tight and a pain in the rear but it can be done. The hardest part for me was the getting the fitting to start threading on the rack. Good luck.

Went back and found the thread I started when my lines were leaking. Lol, somehow that link is at the top of this reply.

 

Thanks for the help everyone.

Even my neighbor agreed that getting those lines out would be very difficult. I have decided to let a pro handle it. There is a limit to what I can do in my driveway. The pro will have a lift and all the tools he needs right there. This has happened before. There are plenty of maintenance items I can do to save money - this is not one of them.

I will be changing the front diff oil before putting the plates back on. Then the xfer case and the rear diff. Plugs, air filter, rotate tires, etc. Done them before and will do them again.

 

Ok it failed the state inspection. Drivers side front roller bearings. I watched a video, looked fairly EZ. I will do both. I don't mind buying the large socket needed, but I don't think my torque wrench goes to the value quoted in the video. I don't want to buy it to use just once.

 

You talking about front wheel bearings? They are fairly simply as long as you buy the hub/bearing assembly pre pressed /assembled. Yeah you need the big ass socket. Personally, I didn’t sweat the exact torque. At re-assembly I put a long extension on it and used my weight at a specific distance to get that torque value. It’s plenty good enough.

 

Can't you just borrow those tools from an auto parts store through their loan-a-tool program?

Side note, I'm always leery of state inspections and feel like places try and use it to back folks into a corner by having them perform the repair of the "faulty/failed part(s)" in hopes that either folks don't know how to work on vehicles or don't want to deal with the inconvenience of going elsewhere to have it repaired (or repairing it themselves).