Power Steering Hose Replacement - Tips and Tricks?

Hello everybody! I am a relatively handy person without too much automotive experience. I need to replace the power steering hoses on my 2009 RC Taco. It seems pretty straight forward... just take off the old ones from the pump and control valve, then put in the new hoses. Then my understanding is that you fill it with fluid and bleed the system by jacking up the front wheels, then turning the steering wheel right and left with the engine on.

How can I best access the distributer valve?

Anything to look out for/replace while I'm down there?

Any tips and trips?

 

You don't turn the engine on during the bleeding. Don't know about the valve. I've only replaced the return hoses to/from the reservoir.

To clarify, the procedure I followed for all my Toyota products was not to turn on the engine. Some procedures may call for it. I followed the utube video by Chris Fix. He may have mentioned in the video why you don't want to turn on the engine.

 

My experience with PS systems says you do bleed the system with the engine running by cycling lock to lock - just as you describe. You DO want to make sure that you are very careful and clean with the install. Any dirt that is introduced to the lines and system will damage the pump and rack. Best practice is to clean all existing fittings with brake cleaner before you disconnect them and keep the new line ends covered with plastic until you are ready to make the connection.

 

Yes, in the final step, you turn on the engine and slowly go turn to turn for the final bleeding. Before that, when you are flushing out the old PS fluid, you go turn to turn slowly with the engine off, topping off in between the turn to turns. This is also part of the bleeding, but your main goal is to flush out the old stuff. Once clean fluid starts coming out, you turn on the car with the cap off and slowly turn end to end a couple of times. Top off as necessary.

 

http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old.../06toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/045006.pdf

 

After the new hoses are installed and youre ready to fill fluid and bleed, try this..

Remove the return line at the reservior and cap the reservoir so the fluid wont spill out.

Extend the return line with another piece of hose down into a bucket.

Lift the front wheels off the ground, without starting the engine, fill the reservior and turn the steering wheel lock to lock.

Youll see the level go down in the reservior pretty quickly as you go, keep it topped off, keep turning lock to lock.

All this is done with the engine off. The rack does the work of positively displacing the air out and the fluid in. Since the engine is not running, the pump cannot inhale any air, thus avoiding foamy fluid and pump whining.

When the fluid starts coming out clean in the bucket, reattach the return line, top off as needed, done

 

@b_r_o Looks good, but at the very end, you do want to turn on the engine and slowly turn steering wheel end-to-end (with reservoir cap off) slowly 2-3 times to bleed out any extra bubbles. The reservoir will also likely go down a bit as PS fills out the nooks/crannies from being pressurized.

 

The topping off as needed (once the engine is running) was implied

I started doing this because some cars like fords are a bitch to get all the air bled out. I couldn't give the car back to the customer with the pump making noise and I was sick of driving around for hours waiting for the pump to quiet down.

It's also a good flush technique, way better than the turkey baster method that a lot of guys use

 

@b_r_o
I guess not all turkey basters are alike; the one I got a Walmart would not fit in my reservoir's opening. Had to use some clear tubing and vacuum from my lungs to suck out the PS. lol. I used a 5 ft section to ensure I didn't breath the stuff.

 

Thanks for the advice on bleedint @b_r_o and @Chuy !! What is the best way to access the ends of the lines that are on the steering rack? Do I need to move anything out of the way?

 

I couldn't help you there as I did not replace the pressure lines, only the return lines at the reservoir. There is a thread on replacing the steering rack bushings that involves removing the rack from the truck; I'm sure you can inquire there.

 

Found it.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/05-v6-tacoma-steering-rack-bushing-replacement.289436/

 

In my experience, turkey basters die a quick death. Automotive chemicals destroy the seal and suction is lost. Here's my turkey baster:

 

@Lester Lugnut
Seal? You don't let the fluid go all the way to the top where the rubber squishy thing is. Fluid stays in the tubing section. I think I paid $3 at Walmart for a clear baster. I couldn't use it on the PS, but it came in handy for the brake flush. Afterwards, I let the baster sit 2-3 days in my little coffee-tin trash bin so all fluid drains out.

 

Turkey Baster is OK if you use it occasionally. The chemicals in auto products(PS fluid - Brake fluid/etc) eventually loosen the bulb(what I referred to as seal) from the tubing. After that, you loose suction. Big MityVac much better than a turkey baster.