Power Door Locks Not Working

Has anyone ever had their power door locks stop working? The lights still flash when I push the unlock button on the fob.

I’ve checked, what I think are, all the door lock-related fuses twice, once with a multimeter (3 fuses under the dash). Everything is good there.

Thinking that it might be related to my remote starter box or wiring, I’ve removed all of that. When the remote starter box was still in the truck, it started on 2 pushes of the lock button instead of the normal 3 pushes.

Still no dice though.

There is a shell on the truck that’s wired to lock/unlock functionality, but I’m not sure how to check that.

Any creative ideas on what to check before I take it to the dealer?

 

Bump for the morning crew.

 

Take it to the dealer...

 

Thanks Joe.

 

NP I think everyone is at a loss in this one. With your truck under warranty I would see what they say.

 

Reset the truck? (Battery out for awhile), also check lock settings on settings.

But Joe is right, I was just suggesting things to try to feel better about taking it to the dealer.

 

Could be a few things. The locks on these trucks are weird. When hooking up an aftermarket alarm/remote start some modules have an issue with synchronization with the factory remote. So in order to bypass that you have to tap into the lock and unlock circuit. So they hardwire the locks to the negative lock and unlock wires. You could check for that and they would grab them at the dash fuse box or the drivers kick (pic #1 below) if they didn’t hardwire the locks, than they should run completely through the CAN bus and would be data controlled. But this doesn’t mean you would have a synchronization Issue. If you have a separate fob for the remote start (guessing not if you’re starting it through your factory fob, lock x3) then try to see if lock and unlock are working on that remote, if equipt.

It could also be the cap, if it’s tied into the locks to control a locking actuator like you’re staying. They probably tapped into the lock/unlock motor wires in the kick panel. Does your locks work with the door switch? If not I would disconnect their wiring. Check the spot below (pic). Or perhaps they got them further back at one of the rear sills

If taking it anywhere, I would take it back to the place that installed the cap or remote start first. Have them check over everything or remove their wiring. Toyota is just gonna give you a bill. Better to have them away especially if they are at fault. Hopefully if it’s due to their install they will cover any repairs Toyota will need to make.

 

As I say here a lot. DO NOT listen to anyone who doesn't tell you to take it to the dealer.

G.

 

I've had this happen twice. Randomly. Click the fob, nothing but beeps. I used the physical key to unlock it. It resumes normal operation after that. It was annoying but it's only happened twice in 35k miles so not enough for me to bring it in.

 

. . . except for dagsamp. You can try that.

G.

 

My guess is also that it has something to do with the cap installer taping into the system. If that's true the dealer won't consider it a warrantee issue. But there's no question that the dealer has the expertise to fix it.

 

I’ve worked for a dealer for 8 years, what are you trying to say? I’m trying to look out for the OP’s best interest. Why should he get stuck with a minimum of a $125 dollar bill, if it’s the fault of some place he paid to have other work done.

 

Simple. As Mtn Mike said. “They have the expertise to fix it” . The cap guys obviously don’t.

G.

 

You’d be surprised. I mean most guys that install caps don’t k ow a whole lot about electrical stuff. But there are plenty of techs at the dealer who don’t either. Some small shops and outfitter places have guys who have more 12v experience than dealerships. Dealerships just have more resources at their hands. Anyways what I mainly mean is having them check their work, and possibly disconnecting or removing their wiring to see if the problem resolved itself. I’ve removed plenty of remote starters in which would of been deemed the problem by the dealer only to find out it was another issue. Had I of not done that, the problems wouldn’t of been fixed correctly or would of just been blamed on the aftermarket product, thus voiding the warranty and having the customer or the company who installed it liable. Even installing things in our dealership I had techs who tried to blame the aftermarket accessories installed by me only for either me to find and fix the issue or they to later figure it out. Bottom line is they don’t like that stuff being in there and are fast to want it out or blame it for the issue. Most of the techs in dealerships have very little trouble shooting abilities when it comes to electronics and circuits. They follow the pinpoint tests and diagnostic procedures the manufacturer engineers lay out for them. Or they just throw parts at the problem until it’s working right, or get in the phone with tech support and they have them walk them through what to do.

 

Thanks for the brainstorming, I really appreciate it.

The shell needs a screen window repaired, so I’ll ask them to look over the electrical while it’s at the shell dealer. After that, I’ll take it to the Toy dealership.

Also, thanks for the reminder that my truck has a 3 yr warranty and not a 2 yr. I honestly spaced that one.

 

Update here.

Took it to the shop that installed my shell, they said everything was fine on their end.

Took it in to Toyota and they found the problem to be the shell wiring for the lift gate power lock and a bad lock actuator. They were happy to redo all the wiring to the shell (lights, power lock, 12v power) and replace the lock actuator to the tune of $250... bummer there, but they did a very nice wiring job.

 

Thought I would contribute my solution that worked.

My lock from the fob would not work and the door lock switch button also did not lock the locks. Now here is the other symptom, when you manually lock all the doors, the fob will blink when clicking the LOCK, then unlock won't blink from the fob or unlock the locks.

Culprit was a 20 AMP FUSE

Fuse buss under the driver's side. Look for "D/L" must stand for Door Lock 20A.

I installed a new fuse and no problems so far and working fine again. To be determined what cause the fuse to blow. I recently had accident damage repairs in front of the vehicle is the only thing that's changed in the last year.

 

I would take your bill to the shop that installed the shell and ask for compensation. In lieu of lousy Google reviews if needed. Or good Google reviews if they step up.