Positive camber on stock OR

after dinner sitting in front of my truck then realized that the truck has some positive camber, and front tire has the wear out from the edge. Wonder if any of you having the same problem?

 

Normal, when they are stock you can bring it down a bit to look better. It's supposed to be positive, thanks to our IFS.

I usually shoot for 0.30 of camber, spec is around .50 my truck is sitting at 0.7-0.8 with its stupid spacer lift.

 

My SR had a lot of camber as well. Too much camber in my opinion it was very noticeable. I brought mine down closer to zero.

 

mine has it also and I'm running Bilstein 5100's set at max setting. It had it when I was stock also.

 

Bumping this. I actually was cleaning my truck today and noticed from the front the wheels seem to have positive camber. One poster in this thread said its normal to come stock like that. Whats the reason for this... anyone know? I was going to point it out to my dealer that the bottom of the wheels point slightly in, but not if its supposed to be like that.

 

I just did the alignment to turns it into negative. Problem solved.

 

Ran mine with positive camber for a year and a half until I noticed recently how bad the outside edge is worn down. Wish I would have noticed earlier.

 

Seems like reading around it’s normal for them to come off the lot with positive camber. But then some say no. IDK

 

Can't help but think if Toyota is shipping these with positive camber that they want it that way for a reason? I'm going in tomorrow and am going to ask about it at the dealer. Maybe they can check to make sure nothing is wrong or that my alignment isn't jacked up. The positive camber is def noticeable.

 

Well the inside edge of my factory tires are pretty worn after 8k miles. So mine would be negative from factory, correct? I'd say they're just coming off the line out of whack. Alignment next week.

 

Yeah. One of the posters up earlier in the thread said something about they do come with positive camber because of the IFS? IDK.

 

ive always noticed positive on mine as well.

my old car had like -1.5 all the way around, for sure wore the rear tires out quicker.

 

I didnt notice any positive camber on my SR til after i had it lifted and an alignment done at a local tire place. Figured it was just a bad alignment. Took it in toyota for the 30k mile service and they came out and told me it was out of alignment and they realigned it into spec. Camber is still positive so maybe thats how toyota wanted it.

 

Yeah must be. I don't love the look of it but if its how it supposed to be, IDK

 

"Took it in toyota for the 30k mile service and they came out and told me it was out of alignment and they realigned it into spec. Camber is still positive so maybe thats how toyota wanted it."

I couldn't find the exact Toyota factory spec for front end alignment values, but there has always been a range, and it's alway been something like - from 0 degrees camber to +1, so aligning to "spec" doesn't mean much. That means you could have on side at zero and one at plus three quarters and it would be in spec. The same way that aligning caster to spec can still result in a car pulling to one side or the other - both sides could be in spec but if the left isn't half a degree lower than the right, it's going to pull. Just because you have a specified range of camber does not mean you can't deviate from that. I always have the alignment on the trucks set to about a quarter degree negative. Drives better and actually wears better too and does not wear the insides at all. The same amount of positive camber will wear the outsides as that positive camber is only exacerbated when corners, putting even more load on the outside of the tires. Hell, the rears on my 911 are at minus two degrees and when cornering hard that just puts the outside rear close to flat giving better traction, and even those don't wear on the inside.

If I ever found out that a dealer re-aligned my truck without my permission, let's just say I would not be happy and I would be there in the back personally supervising the alignment dude to get it right, not just within spec. Actually I would never ever let a dealer put my truck on their alignment rack because all they're allowed to do is get it within spec.

 

Positive camber is an adjustment which is specific to our trucks. You can align them slightly negative if you want to gain not only better handling, but increased tire life. Mine sits at -0.5* chamber on both sides with a max of -0.7* ... my handling is awesome for a truck. If you are big into wheeling it is my advice to either go negative or keep it neutral at 0.0 camber adjustments.

 

Camber isn't typically the culprit when it comes to edge wear. Camber edge wear occurs over 10s of thousands of miles. Toe is what causes edge wear. That is what you need to look at.

As for being able to eyeball an alignment, that really isn't possible. We are talking fractions of degrees with alignment angles. If you alignment is so far off that you can see it, you undoubtedly have some serious problems.
Keep in mind also with alignment angles is that the numbers you see while sitting still are not the numbers that you would see while you are driving. The object of alignments is that you align for handling while moving. Toe for instance should be zero, but if you were to set to zero toe while still, it would become negative causing inside edge wear. Toe is set slightly positive (or toed in) because the push from a rear wheel drive causes them to open up. The revers is true for a front wheel drive.

 

Serious problems? Truck tracks straight and drives smooth, and many here seem to say they can visibly see the positive camber on stock trucks. Maybe its also somewhat of an optical illusion.

 

Positive camber is easily noticeable. My last alignment I asked for as much caster as possible while keeping camber in spec. it worked out to less than a degree of positive camber but the top of the tire clearly is leaning out.

 

The camber spec according to our Hunter machine at work is -0.2 to 1.3. So anywhere within that range is “green”

Mine was at .2 left and .0 right at 5,000 miles. Toe was at zero.
Set the toe at .10 and camber at 0.5
Truck drives and handles much better.