Portable Refrigerators | Power requirements

I have the Off-Grid Engineering dual battery system, which is a bit of an expense for the setup, but it's a nice system and no worries, and the auxiliary battery charges up fast. I recently returned from a 10 day trip and I didn't have to think about it at all. I'm using it to run a Snomaster 42, which it was amazing to leave with cold food, and even return home with some of the same food and put it right back in the home fridge! No ice, no wet soggy food ... a fridge is game changer!





Another option to consider is like a Jackery. I've read that you can charge it at the same time (via the 12 volt plug) and power a fridge?

 

I bought the ARB wiring kit and the ARB 2-pin screw in power cord to go with my ICECO JP30. The kit works but it wasn't plug and play for me. I threw the right-angle crimp connectors it came with in the trash and had to crimp smaller ring terminals on the other end to fit my aftermarket fuse block. As others have said, you need to hard line the fridge to the battery or accessory fuse block if you want to get the most performance out of it with the fewest amount of issues. (or get a portable battery, but those are too expensive and bulky for my needs) I did 3 or 4 camping trips plugged into one of the the 12v outlets in the cab, it sucked. I was always starting my truck up to charge the battery because you have to keep the key in the ignition to power the fridge. All the other electronic stuff on the truck that stays on with the key in the ignition has an additional parasitic draw with no battery protection. Be prepared to jump your truck if you use the cigarette plug for a trip.

Here's where I mounted my outlet. I put it behind the gas cap for easy install/service. I ended up running the wiring through the firewall into the cab and then out from under the drivers seat through a rubber grommet. I then just followed the factory wiring harness to the rear with zip ties.

 

This is what I did. Ordered the arb wiring kit plus the 2 pin plug. Plugs right in to my Iceco VL60.
Signed up for the Amazon credit card and got it all free. I took it out for an overnight trip and it never got close to affecting the battery. Northstar 27F.

 

I did not want the expense nor the weight of 2 battery setup, the built in 110V has to be turned on every time you start your truck or it does not work, and the interior 12 volt cigarette lighter only operates when the truck is on. I needed a reliable power source and backup for when I’m many miles from the nearest help.

I ran 10 gauge wire from my battery through the Switch-Pros SP9110 and to bed, back by the 110V outlet, into a Blue Sea Systems 4366 panel; which includes a switch, 12 volt adapter, dual USB and voltage gauge.

In the bed of the truck I place a Goal Zero Yeti power station which draws it charge through the 4366 12 volt adapter. And then the

$800 Dometic CFX3 45 -Liter Portable Refrigerator and Freezer, Powered by AC/DC or Solar

Dometic CFX3 45 is powered from the Goal Zero power station via the 12 volt adapter. I also carry two 100 watt solar panels with USB ports as well as capable of charging the truck’s battery and the Goal Zero power station.

This setup has worked great in 115 degree desert heat all the way down to 18 degree ether in the national forest.

 

I am glad I found this thread. My Dometic CFX3 and Jackery 500 are coming next week. My plan is to install the Dometic in my bed and plug in to the Jackery. While driving, I plan to plug in/charge the Jackery to the 110V bed outlet and when we get to the campground, I will use the solar panel to recharge. I understand I will lose some power using the bed outlet but I dont think the 12V cable is long enough for me to charge the Jackery from the truck bed to the cab. i will report back how it goes after my camping trip.

 

Before heading out, check your Jackery 50 charging from the 110V outlet. The outlet may not have enough power to charge your Jackery.

 

This is what I did. I have an ARB elements fridge strapped in the bed of my truck and ran a line straight to the battery. With the ARB wire kit like you mentioned. The fridge will run for about 3 days before it shuts off to save the battery. I’ve had no issues with my setup at all.

 

My goal was to keep this as simple as possible. I've had the complex options in the past and wanted something easy to remove and install.
First I did the 400W inverter mod https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-400w-anytime-mod-3rd-gen.436831/

Then I bought a group 34 AGM which would serve as a replacement battery in an emergency. This battery is charged with a NOCO AGM charger plugged into the new outlet I installed when I did the 400W inverter mod.

I also bought a 60 watt foldable solar panel that folds up to 8x11 for easy storage. This panel keeps up with the frig draw and is great when stopped over 24 hours.

Lastly, I went with a very efficient ARB refrig mounted behind the driver's seat. This system has worked out great for us and is very simple to use.

 

Ya you may need to do the 400w anytime mod to the plug or run its own wire for an inverter. For example, my rockpals 250 has a dc plug but takes days to charge from zero... like 3 or 4 days. AC, no problem. Few hours.

 

He is correct, your vehicle inverter only runs at 100 watts unless you put the vehicle in park or do the mod I referenced above.

 

I did the same thing. This is something a lot of people overlook. Sure you can get a cheapo fridge but you pay for it in power consumption.

 

Lol this is 100% true. My chepo fridge freezer is rated at 5 ah for a 55qt but in freezer mode, I know it takes more. Fridge not so bad. The seal isn't that good and it has no insulation so it loses cold like hell. If u got a big enough battery bank and solar not to bad. If not, just get a decent one

 

I did a test run with my Jackery 500 over the weekend. I was able to charge my Jackery 500 with the bed outlet at 100W while I was driving. It was a short drive (+/- 5 miles) and added 5% charge to the battery. My next steps is to plug in my Dometic CFX3 to the Jackery 500 and Jackery to the bed outlet. Hope this will work.

 

I ran a new Iceco vl-45 at 39*F with a Jackery 1000 for 3 days. Some LED lights as well. By the time we got home from a 3 day trip, the Jackery had 65% charge. Expensive but easier and more portable than a second battery, wiring and all that.

 

Sub'd for reference.

 

I just spent 28 days living out of my truck this spring.. My factory 24f from 2017 lasted 27 days..

I drove my truck at least a little bit every day,, some days less than 10-15 minutes (a lot of starting, drive 5 min and stopping).. I ran my Alpicool fridge, lights in my camper shell, phone charger and a little 3" desk fan when i slept..

Truck started fine until the second to last day.. I keep a jump pack, so i knew i was going to get all the life out of the factory battery that i could.. It was seeming to get weak before my trips even started, but I didn't want to trade in a good battery.. I researched before hand and seen that there was a batteries plus pretty close to everywhere i would be..

When it finally died, I drove to Omaha Nebraska and picked up a X2 Power 24f.. I figure with that battery and a cascadia solar panel for next spring i will be good to go..

As for power, i just have a 12v plug straight from a fuse block that is connected to the starter battery.

I just think a duel battery setup is overkill.. Maybe if you plan on not starting your truck for 5-6 days and had no solar..

As for frigde,, I will continue to recommend Alpicool to EVERYONE

 

Any issues with the stock "smart" alternator charging the AGM?

 

I haven't had it but a couple weeks, but so far it has been fine. I plan to order a charger for the AGM, and also the cascadia solar panel should keep it topped off..

 

For the cost of the dual battery system and the two AGM batteries that I recently installed, I could have about bought a Jackery 1500 (plus I'm always carrying around the weight of that second AGM battery).

I was wondering too if a Jackery would charge enough while on the rear outlet or by the 12 volt plug with also keeping the fridge running so there is no loss in charge, or even better that the Jackery would gain in charge? I think that's longterm the way to go. I do have a Jackery 240, and what I like about it is that I can also put it inside a tent and easily hook up other items to it while camping.

The only disadvantage to a Jackery is that it's easier to grab and steal than my second AGM battery (something I think about when traveling is theft prevention of my toys).

 

I added an ARB 12V DC kit power to the back seat area for ARB to run off the truck while driving and for short stops here and there.

Then added a Jackery 1000 to run the fridge off for extended stops.

Recently just added a 4Runner AC outlet to the back of my center console, as well as a PnP harness to keep my inverter at 400W whenever it is on. Now the Jackery is plugged into the 4Runner outlet during travel, and the fridge is plugged into the Jackery 12V DC socket.

In a month I will be adding two 100W solar panels above my bed rack to keep the Jackery topped up while parked in the sun. My fridge lives where the passenger rear seat normally is.