PLEASE! How to seal my tailgate w/ camper shell!?

Only recommendation is to sell it before it depreciates anymore and get a soft topper with a rack that fits over it. It's what I did and I haven't looked back.

 

Really, everyone is answering about different spots to seal than the OP? For those corners above the tailgate under the cap's rear window:

BUTYL PUTTY (aka butyl seal tape but it is like stick tac, conformt to any shape)

Clean the area on those corners of the cap, do your best with that stuff to stick it to the cap in a way that plugs air out but allows the tailgate and window to move, good to go. Helps dust and water, but water should be diverted in other ways as well. Double bulb seals at the right angles and parking nose uphill if there is incline.

 

I actually found it better to park nose slightly down, then the water rolls to the front and falls off instead of it all coming down the rear window channels.

 

My Leer 100r hatch has similar gaps with the rear hatch as OP's pictures and I haven't noticed any significant water intrusion in 2 years of ownership.

Anchor truck accessories in Roanoke, Va gets an A+ on their initial installation and sealing.

 

Any update on a fix???

 

Necro-bump here…

I found this thread as I was trying to figure out how to fill the same gap on my new Leer 180.

Most of the replies drifted to other spots that might leak rather than the one specific spot the OP was asking about. Here’s what I have done to fill the leak on the bottom outside corners of the rear door, above the tailgate.

FrostKing ExpandableSelf-Stick Joint Filler Weatherseal. $18 for a 13’ roll and Home Depot.

Theres a flange that runs down the side of the rear door on the inside and doesn’t go quite all the way to the bottom. I placed the weather seal right up against the bottom of that flange and continued it to the bottom of the door and also along that little plastic flap at the base of the door. I attached it in a manner that allowed it to stick out over the outside edge about half an inch. That half-inch that sticks off the edge is what gets compressed into the gap. It doesn’t look pretty. I trimmed a little bit of the excess away. It also takes just a little bit more push to get the door, completely closed and latched, not much though, just enough to let you know that you’re compressing that seal.

The flashlight test in the garage right after installation says it has filled the gap. Not sure how long it will last.

The product:


Viewpoint from standing behind the truck looking up at the open door:


Pre-trimming:


Post-trimming:


From the inside with the door closed and latched:

 

I found a good solution for this. I bought a foam mini football (about 8 inch). I sliced that in half down the middle so I had two cone shapes, then in half down the middle for a half cone shape , then in half again for a quarter cone shape. I then had 8 roughly triangular pieces of foam.

I then used one piece for each side, and carved it to fit, and formed a fairly simply little seal against dust. Works very well, and I have several pieces to spare in case I lose one. Will try to post pics. The foam compresses and returns to shape nicely. No need to use glue. I just stick the pieces in place when I close the door.

 

The thing with the plastic-top tailgate is water runs down the rear window seal and drops straight on top of the flat plastic top then straight into the bed interior. You have to guide the water out past the plastic tailgate top. On my XR100 rear it looks like this. With my aluminum channel rear window shell it is the same idea. Made with 3M mastic tape and 3M white floor marking tape.

 

To seal water out from the open tailgate joint, I never liked the Amazon solutions and use L-shaped garage door weatherstripping held in place with good 3M double-sided foam tape.

With these two solutions (and the obligatory sealing of the holes on the front wall), my back stays perfectly dry in the Winter.