Please help! Taco is spitting codes.

For starters I’ve searched several post and found nothing that matched my errors.

2018 TRD sport with 77K miles. I was driving to visit family in Miami (from Tampa area) and my check engine light came on mid trip. Once I arrived to my Destination I stopped at auto zone and found out my truck spit this codes.

P0171
P0174
P1170

I proceed to clean my MAF and K&N and removed negative battery cable. … When I started the truck the next day the code was clear and truck seemed to be running fine.

I drove back to auto zone to buy fuel injector cleaner and then went to gas station to top off tank. When I pulled up to the pump the check engine came back on. After I topped off my tank and got back into my truck it wouldn’t start. It turned over quite well but wouldn’t fire up.

I had the truck towed to my grandmothers house and let it sit for about 3 hours as I did research and at dinner. I went back out to the truck and it started it up.

Though it was a rough start up and it had a bumpy idle for a moment and then evened out after about 20 seconds. I let it run for a few minutes, killed the engine and fired it back up. On the second start up it fired up smooth.

Since I am 350 miles from home, and have limited resources I am trying to find the most effective solutions and way to handle this.

I Am between a bad Crankshaft position sensor or a bad fuel injector. I may go buy the crankshaft position sensor as it’s a super easy fix and hope for the best. As I was suppose to be heading home Friday morning by 10am. All input, advice, and suggestions would be much appreciated.

 

Crank sensor is nearly impossible to change at home. It's under the AC compressor wedged in behind a bracket. It would have nothing to do with fuel trim.

You need to diagnose it rather than throw parts at it. At the very least you need a scan tool with live data to monitor fuel trim %'s.

It's more likely fuel delivery, and you'll need to check pressure.

 

Check out this video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8G4iG6JgpUE&t=325s

 

The lean codes indicate a fuel issue - this is not a crankshaft sensor issue. It is also not a single fuel injector issue as the truck would run with a bad injector. Did you get the fuel pump replaced under the dealer recall? These are symptoms (no start/hard start) of a dying low pressure fuel pump.

 

As Bishop stated you will need to monitor fuel trims, a basic scan tool that allows you to monitor live data, and a freeze frame data when the code set is also important. Don't start throwing parts at it.

 

Here us the guy who was getting same codes
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/check-engine-light-on-2020-trd-or-46k-miles.819500/

 

i'm not saying i had the same problem long ago on another car or even my fix might work for you...but it might be worth a try...easy things first.
i was getting very poor running/mileage and O2 sensors were complaining and fuel trims were off and had too lean codes. i forget all the details (10yrs ago).
everyone was convinced i had a manifold leak, which was common for that car.
i tried a home made smoker looking for the leak but found none but forum experts were convinced...and from what i had been reading for years on the forum it sounded right. i even bought the gaskets (and plugs while i was in there) and was ready to go.
i looked at data logging from an obdII dongle and some software on a laptop and came to conclusion i might have a stuck open injector which was compensated for by the ECU and eventually showing a lean condition. very counter intuitive. again apology not remembering the details but that was the gist of it. before pulling it all apart, i dumped a bottle of GOOD injector cleaner in the tank. not the $2/bottle stuff. i think it was CRC's best around $10/bottle on sale IIRC. that did it. i no longer have the car but the parts are sitting in the garage. learn from that. at least i did not do all that work for nothing.
if you can keep it going and are going to try to get home, dump some GOOD cleaner in the tank and cross fingers. won't hurt it if an injector is not the problem.
good luck.
edit: this is probably what i used:

$10 CRC 05062 Premium Fuel Injector Cleaner - 12 Fl Oz

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05062-Premium-Injector-Cleaner/dp/B000CINVEM

 

K&N toss that in garbage. I can't tell you many have f'd up MAF's and throw codes.

 

Limited resources?
It's always cheaper to properly diagnose than to play swap-a-part. And you won't have the headache of not knowing what the next problem is' because you mucked something up along the way.

 

Disconnect and plug the evap purge valve and see what happens. Extremely common to have them fail, and they can stick in any position. Open would essentially give you an vacuum leak, causing it to run lean.

 

Best of luck. You might try a post in the FL section, see if anyone nearby can loan a good scan tool to get you some live data
https://www.tacomaworld.com/forums/florida.45/

 

There's always the tiny chance that it's the original battery doing funny things, but not sure about this condition.