Plasidip vs. good paint - which is tougher?

I have never used Plastidip, but have used paint on car accessories. We all want the medium that holds up the best and looks good longest. Which is toughest and will hold up the longest?

Plastidip seems to be the product that is most often used on grills, wheels and such. I am going to do my grill and am undecided in what to use. Honestly, i am skeptical on Plastidip because its advertised as being easy to peel off.. That doesn't sound like it would hold up as well as a good paint job (scotch-bright area to be painted, proper primer, a couple coats of paint).

I've googled this subject and of course come up with conflicting views (not unexpected)..

Not trying to be rude, but not interested in just opinions. Would honestly like to hear from those who have used both methods, and the long term results...

Thanks, much.

 

When dealing with plastic chrome or painted surfaces you don't want to damage such as body or wheels with sanding and having the option of returning to it's prior form/color use Plastidip. Plastic chrome when painted tends to chip very easily up front even with good prep and adhesion primer. It's doable, but a pain the ass when Plastidip can be applied with no prep. Plastidip has a more durable coating and thicker texture that will withstand a good amount of abuse. After a good 24 hours of cure time, it doesn't simply flake off. It bonds really well to smooth surfaces, but can still be peeled off if you change your mind or want to touch up.

 

you need to go get a small can of it and play with
it on small stuff at home, that's the best way to know how it behaves

it's stronger than paint as far as chipping, it makes most small rocks bounce
off

but it is weaker than paint at the same time, as it can be picked off by branches or peeled off by rubbing

it's just plastic that is like thin vinyl basically

 

Thanks for the replies..

I've found some vids on you tube that demonstrate its (plastidip) toughness.
Also some paints that appear tough.
http://www.krylon.com/products/fusion-for-plastic/

As mentioned above, perhaps its best to just experiment and try both on test pieces.

 

What's the application your looking for? That matters the most. Paint and clear is going to be the most durable no matter what, but depending on the application dip may be fine

 

dipped the bezel & logo on my grille over a month ago, zero signs
of chips, looks exactly like it did the day I did it. No top coat, just 4
coats of dip on a surface I only cleaned with some alcohol, no other prep
was done.

 

Going to do the grill black like this member (BMunster).. nice
What is the advantage of clear coat. I thought it was just to give the base coat 'depth'.?

 

Everything else being equal, with a project like the emblems / badges, it can mean the difference between an 'easy ' project, and a not so easy one.
With the Plastidip, you merely mask 1/2 - 1" around the plastic badge, and spray numerous (I sprayed 9 thin coats ) at all angles onto the badge AND surrounding painted surface area. Like paint, it sprays into all the tiny nooks and crannies, but once cured, peels off the body paint nicely. ISFA those tiny little places within the letters and numbers, the plastidip easily picks out. Paint, well, hmmm. Might not be too fun, if at all.
I personally would NOT use the Plastidip on surfaces which would be prone to abuse; bumpers, wheels... but less exposed items like badges, grills, I think it's a very convenient alternative to paint.
That's my story, and. I'm sticking to it.

 

Like the poster above, I would never use Plastidip on major areas of the truck prone to the environment except for very small areas (like badges) for the simple reason IF you scrape it you have to pull all the dip off and redo. IT is not a permanent solution that can handle scrapes and small debris. I vote for a more permanent solution to painting a vehicles bits. Paint..

 

Plastidip will only hold up for a while,

Yes clear gives the base more depth but it also provides more protection. If it was my truck I would remove the grill, do the prep work and give it to a body shop to spray. Even if they don't do a base clear and only use a single stage or something it will look better and last longer. While it will cost a little more I'm sure you'll be much better with the results

 

Depends.
If you chip paint, you have to re-prep and re spray the entire area.
Plasti dip you peel off and respray. A 3.50 cent can goes a long way.

 

Why can't you just spot touch up either plastidip or paint.?
Especially if using a flat or matte black. Both touch up will little to no problem.

Looks like we have about 50-50 paint-vs-plastidip.
I'll probably just do plastidip cause its easy, and if it doesn't hold up well. Strip and paint....

 

You can actually repair plastidip. There's a video by the dipyourcar guys on youtube doing a repair to a wheel. Involves rubbing some solvent on the break and thinning out the edges of the chip, then respraying. They made it look easy of course.

Anyway, I also blacked out my grille. I drove all over this town talking to body shops and every single one of them said "It's just gonna chip off and you'll have to have it repainted in a year or two." At $100-200 a spray, if I did the prep work myself, it wasn't easy for me to arrive at the conclusion that $8 for a can of plastidip was the more practical option. If end up having to redo it once a year, that's less than 1/10th the cost of professional painting, and a couple hours of my time.

There are also other plastidip products if you want to increase the durability of your finish. Plastidip makes a glossifier for more shine, as well as a product called "Dip Coat" that changes the surface to feel smoother and harder and less rubbery. It supposedly makes it scratch and mar resistant. These are products that cost a little more than your $8 can of plastidip, but it's still cheaper than a pro paint job and is something that you can do yourself quickly and very easily.

It's up to you, but if you try plastidip and it doesn't work out, you've only lost a few bucks!

Edit: added quote of my final product.

 

I dipped my grille, tires and bumper when I first purchased my 2012 Tacoma and it last all the way upto trading it in for my 2016. This stuff is tougher than you think! The only touch ups I had to do where on my rims two hrs in. I just dipped my grille this weekend

 

You dipped your tires? That's weird.

 

Really depends on the application and where you are using it and if you want to be able to reverse it. Ive had professional painted wheels and rattle can painted wheels, both chipped after time. Currently i have plasti dipped wheels and the rubber coating doesn't chip like paint. Yes you can peel plasti dip off but you have to be trying to do it to get it to start peeling.