Pinout of door lock actuator?

I bought a base model with power nothing.
I want to add keyless.
I have a fob system that I bought from Amazon.

I bought a new door latch with the power actuator. (The one in my door didn't have any wire hookups, the new one does.

I *believe* I should be able to connect my aftermarket kit to the correct pins on the actuator and have that trigger the locks.
a) is that right?
b) what the heck do these pins do?
I count 6 pins in the actuator.

I assume I need to supply power and ground to the connector and then trigger lock and unlock. But which ones?

Anyone know? I searched the forum high and low and didn't see an answer. (Apologies if I am just using the wrong keywords....)

Thanks in advance.

 

You will need the mating connector.


The factory wiring:

Pins 1 & 4 Lock/Unlock Motor circuit
Pin 7 Ground
Pin 8 Unlock Detection Switch signal (tells the Body ECU whether or not the door is locked)
Pin 9 Key Lock Switch signal (signals the Body ECU to lock the doors when the door key cylinder is turned to lock)
Pin 10 Key Unlock Switch signal (signals the Body ECU to unlock the doors when the door key cylinder is turned to lock)

 

THANK YOU. Super helpful.

So it sounds like the motor is powered forward or backward based on a signal from the ECU - by reversing polarity on the motor circuit?

And pins 9 & 10 are the pathway to send the activate/deactivate signal to the body ECU.

But the ECU (and not the latch) controls which direction the motor turns and for how long when the signal is sent to lock or unlock?

So is it true that it won’t be enough for the keyless unit I have to send a signal to 9 & 10, I’ll also need a body ECU or a circuit to control power and timing to the motor?

My Tacoma has power nothing from the factory.

Is the ECU another module I need to add or is it already in the vehicle?

 

Are you trying to make the factory system work or are you putting everything aftermarket except the actuator?
Trying to understand the setup you are going with.

 

If you are using an aftermarket keyless entry system you'll only need pins 1 & 4 on the door lock. They are reversing polarity so depending on what your keyless entry system is capable of you can either wire it straight up or you will need to add two SPDT relays to create the reversing polarity setup. Or you can order a DEI 451M door lock module which essentially has the relays built into a box.

If on the other hand you are trying to integrate a factory keyless entry system that is a whole other deal.

Personally I went with an aftermarket alarm, added regular door lock motors and the adapters to make them work on cable systems and it works great.

 

The second. I don’t care about “factory” in particular.

I’m trying to have an inexpensive and reliable option. I *thought* adding the factory actuator would address “reliable”

I already own a key fob system that can send a trigger.

Suggestions? Clearly I don’t know what I’m doing.

 

Ok, since you have a key fob system that can send triggers just order up and DEI 451M door lock module and wire it to pins 1 & 4 of the factory actuator and it'll work fine. The triggers from your key fob system will go to the inputs of the 451M, you'll need to hook up power and ground for it and then the output get split and go to pins 1 & 4 of the factory actuators. Not sure which wire to which pin but if you get them backward you'll know, then just switch them around.

 

That sounds useful.
I can imagine coming up with a way to get those pins connected, but as long as I’m asking: is there an easy way to get the female plug connector for that latch without buying a whole harness?

 

I'd try to find a any Toyota that has the same plug at a local Junkyard and cut it out.

 

Thanks much for the great direction so far.

Got the 451M, so I’m one step closer.
It’s clear what I need to connect to my fob system. Power plus the lock & unlock triggers, and I get which wires match those.
I’m stumped on the wires to connect from the 451M to pins 1&4

There are 5 to choose from, and based on the one pager in the box, I’m not clear which ones would carry power to the latch pins.

I’m not sure what I’m doing and don’t want to break the new door latch I bought.

 

White/black and brown/black both go to ground. Green/black and blue/black go to both door lock actuators. Start with green to pin 1 and blue to pin 4. If the door lock goes the wrong direction reverse the wires. What you're wiring up is what is called a reverse polarity door lock system. Basically you are powering the motors directly.

 

I get that I’m powering it directly.

And that will leave violet and violet black not connected to anything, right?

 

No, the two violets go to power. They are what supply power to the motors when you lock and unlock them. The white and brown wires will be supplying the ground for the other half of the motors.

 

That makes a lot more sense.

 

Woo hoo! Got it working tonight!
Thank you so much for saving me hours of experimentation and errors.

If I get sufficiently motivated, I may try to tackle connecting the horn or parking lights flasher another day.

 

Well, I guess I got motivated. I ended up buying a second power door latch (man those factory items are PRICEY)
and I spent a couple of evenings poking around at the wiring.

Thanks again for the help.

I got the parking lights to flash when it's unlocking and the horn to honk when locking.
I had forgotten that this was a proximity system - it auto unlocks and locks as I approach and leave the vehicle. Snazzy.

The system is supposed to go into "sleep mode" while driving - it has leads for the door closed and for the brake.
Theoretically when the door is closed and the brake has been pressed, the system sleeps. It looks like it doesn't.
I'll put that off for another time. The consequence is that while the fob is in the truck, it signals the keyless system and flashes the LED, running down the battery faster.

What's odd to me is that it also appears that my front parking lights are not working.
I have never looked to see if they worked before - I always drive with my headlights on.
It may be that they have never worked since I bought the truck.

Any thoughts on why my front (but not rear) parking lights might not be working? The rear ones are fine.

 

Have you checked the bulbs?
They are fed off the same fuse as the rears so if they aren't working it would have to be bulbs or wiring.

 

Duh! Overlooked the classic troubleshooting mantra "when you see hoof prints, think horses, not zebras"
Yes. The bulbs are blown. I was knee deep in the wiring and it didn't occur to me to check the simple stuff.

Thank you. Ordering bulbs now.

 

Definitely the bulbs. Simple, but glad to have the pointer in the right direction.

Looks like I've got the horn and parking lights working, and the proximity sensors are working, too.
The only thing I am not 100% sold on having working is the "sleep mode" which is supposed to be triggered from +12V on the door switch, and +12V on the brake. I think I need to take it on a drive to confirm, but from poking around in the driveway it looks like the system ain't sleeping. The impact is the fob battery will die sooner. but for having the truck automatically unlock when I walk up and lock when I walk away, I think I can buy a couple of CR2032 batteries.

Thanks everyone for the help!