PCV Valve replacement - Aftermarket vs OEM

Greeetings, new to the forum and I searched the issues related to PCV valve replacement but didn't see this particular question: Is there a significant difference between OEM and aftermarket valves? I'm seeing a significant difference in the price - as much as 5 or 6X for OEM and wonder if the O'Rielly $8 unit works as well? Your experience?

 

its a spring and washer check valve thing

not much changes in its design in 50 years

 

I see OEM online for $7.00-$9.00

The O'Reilly's one will probably be ok.
But anyone that has worked on cars in the last 10 years will tell you, Aftermarket parts are crap.

If the PCV sticks closed, you risk blowing out oil seals.
Worst case scenario, it will be the RMS. And that is not an easy job.


I'd stick with OEM on a "relatively cheap" part like a PCV.

 

I’d definitely go with OEM on this, even if the price difference is $20 compared to aftermarket. Aftermarket parts are a crapshoot these days. Just be sure you get a non-counterfeit OEM part. And you will see exposed threads when it’s tightened to torque spec.

 

The OEM vs aftermarket question is asked constantly regarding hundreds of different parts. If I have a choice I go OEM close to 100% of the time. Yes OEM is more expensive but there is often a reason it costs more. Often the cheaper aftermarket ends up costing more when it fails than the OEM. Even on a simple thing like the pvc valve, the spring may be cheap and fail, break or stick. If you’re short on $$$ go with aftermarket but if you can afford it go OEM. As a friend said to me - cheap is not good and good is not cheap.

 

OEM is generally better.
OEM PCV valve is not that expensive if you shop around for the best price

 

Just clean out the original one. No need to replace.

And stick with OEM if you do replace.

 

I don't think I paid over $8 for an OEM purchased online. Replaced mine just because. Be careful not to overtighten it when replacing it.

 

Since Toyota doesn't manufacture most of a car’s components, finding out who manufacturer’s the oem parts can save you $$. I have no idea who makes the PCV’s for Toyota. I want to say Denso, but just a guess.

 

I only buy aftermarket parts, even Fram oil filters (oh god, no!). 150K miles so far and runs perfectly.

OK, some of the parts have "toyota" scratched off the labels to disguise that they used to be OEM.

 

Honestly you can buy it OEM or you can buy a cheap knock off of an oem off of like Amazon or Ebay. Kind of a crap shoot there as to whether you're getting the real part or a fake part. Anyway point being is that there's really no difference between the aftermarket and the oem. If I'm not mistaken the OEM is a denso.... and if yours isn't bad just clean it up and reuse it I've done it many times with other vehicles in the past. All it is is a little ball or cylinder in there that rattles around so basically cleaning off the excess old oil and carbon is all you really need to do and drop it back in. But I get it most people don't want to spend a few minutes time to do it so dropping a new one in is easier. Some people say there's a rubber washer inside but I've never cut one open yet that's had one. It's just always been a cylinder shaped piece floating inside the pipe. And if you get a brand new one and rattle it around you'll hear it clunk at each end and if it had rubber seal, you would not hear a clunk

 

Thanks everyone - lots of good information here. I'll go with an OAM replacement part. I tried removing the old PCV valve today which its supposed to be torqued to 20 ft lbs and I couldn't budge it. Added some lube spray and warmed up the engine but no luck. Got my impact driver on it and it didn't move it. I only tried the lowest setting but it's got to be 80-90 ft lbs but I may increase it to the max 120 ft lb setting and try again tomorrow. Guess engine heat has tightened it up.
Thanks again for all of the insight - great forum.

 

There's no way in hell it should be so tight you can't get it out with a ratchet. And if you can't get it out with your impact gun it's not going to come out.
https://youtu.be/qnOzV5UURxE?feature=shared

 

The truck just rolled 50K miles on it so it's got to be the original installation - I've owned the truck since 2017 and it had about 13K mi on it then.

 

Welcome to the forum

Something I feel needs to be considered when discussing OEM vs aftermarket parts is the actual function of the part one is replacing.

The old saying "the devil is in the details" comes into play here. The PCV valve my be "just a simple part" however it is carefully calibrated to the application.

Sure, we all know that Toyota has this part manufactured for them - to their specifications, set by their engineers.

On this and similar parts like thermostats go OEM every time to avoid headaches.

On the other hand for more "general purpose" parts I feel there is nothing wrong with carefully selected aftermarket parts. Wagner brakes or Moog suspension parts for example.

 

Little secret for OEM vice Aftermarket parts.

Many manufacturers make the OEM Parts. Some of these same manufacturers also make aftermarket parts on the exact same assembly lines to the exact same specifications.

With a little research you will find that many aftermarket parts are in fact built to the OEM Specifications and can be had at a great discount.

Of course that isn't always the case. But when I worked for a worldwide fuel injector manufacturer we would run an assembly line making injectors for lets say Ford and would then turn around and make aftermarket injectors for a Ford and the ONLY difference between them was the laser etch markings for Part Number etc...

 

I replaced both pieces at about 134,000 (hose and PCV) with Toyota OEM ones for under $20. Appeared to be the original factory installs. The hose looked pretty good but after a careful look, noted a crack on the valve side end of it.
They always seem to have splits/cracks: Replace the hose while you have it off.

 

A bit of carb or throttle body spray cleaner is all it takes. The old '94 has its original PCV valve.

 

Got it done. Took a long handled 1/2" drive ratchet with a 15" extension on the wobble and a healthy grunt and broke it loose. Went back with 20 ft lbs of torque and everything worked out. Thanks to everyone for the advice here.

 

FWIW: I sprayed the original with carb cleaner to remove all the gunky sludge/varnish accumulation and keep it as a spare. Comparing the rattles between them after I shook it to remove and dry the cleaner was much better (cleaner?), but not a good as on the new PCV.
Lots of expensive damage can happen if this inexpensive part fails.