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PCV Valve maintenance -- is it necessary?

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by DGXR, Jul 19, 2018.

  1. Jul 19, 2018 at 9:58 AM
    #1
    DGXR

    DGXR [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I've been working on my own vehicles for 30 years and not once had a problem related to PCV valve malfunction or failure. Every one I have ever checked still rattled like it's supposed to, mostly I just cleaned them out a little and put em back in but I did replace a few, just because.

    The PCV valve on my 2006 2.7 is one of the few serviceable items that has never been touched. The truck has 145,000 miles, gets regular maintenance with quality parts and materials, and runs perfectly. But about this design with the PCV valve at the rear of the valve cover (and *threaded* into the cover!)... I have tried to get sockets, box wrenches, adjustable wrenches and even pliers back in that space and it's very inconvenient. So I ask, considering the inconvenience plus the unlikelihood that there is a problem, is it worth the bother of replacing this little f**ker just to know I've done all possible PM to this vehicle? Again, it runs perfectly and I am likely to leave well enough alone but wanted to ask TW anyway. Thanks in advance.
     
    Kolter45 likes this.
  2. Jul 19, 2018 at 10:02 AM
    #2
    taco2010trd

    taco2010trd Cyber Bully

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    Yes, I would just replace it for piece of mind. It's a $20 part
     
  3. Jul 19, 2018 at 10:32 AM
    #3
    knottyrope

    knottyrope Well-Known Member

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    195k miles and I have not replaced it yet
     
  4. Jul 19, 2018 at 11:06 AM
    #4
    BillsSR5

    BillsSR5 Looking out for #1

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    maybe you can remove the hose and shoot some carb cleaner thru it
     
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  5. Jul 19, 2018 at 8:23 PM
    #5
    Taco'09

    Taco'09 Well-Known Member

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    For sure replace it. They are an important piece that prevents excess pressure in the crank case. Plenty of engines have had larger problems related to that cheap little valve. Oh, and don't get a generic valve or even one from the big online suppliers. I have had problems with some of those including one that had its internal port sealed shut Get OEM. The OEM ones have been properly engineered for flow rates, etc.
     
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  6. Jul 19, 2018 at 8:54 PM
    #6
    81shark

    81shark Well-Known Member

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    replaced mine when i did the valve cover gasket. it rattled, but it was pretty gunky inside.

    defiantly get OEM. I picked one up at murrays and the thread was way to coarse. took it back ordered an OEM
     
  7. Jul 20, 2018 at 6:23 AM
    #7
    BillsSR5

    BillsSR5 Looking out for #1

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    how hard are the PCVs to replace? im assuming a 19mm deep socket or open end wrench will work to unscrew it.
     
  8. Jul 20, 2018 at 6:51 AM
    #8
    fathomblue

    fathomblue I used to be disgusted; now I'm just amused.

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    Kolter45 and Rick's 2012 like this.
  9. Jul 20, 2018 at 7:06 AM
    #9
    BillsSR5

    BillsSR5 Looking out for #1

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  10. Jul 20, 2018 at 7:10 AM
    #10
    Hobbs

    Hobbs Anti-Lander from way back…

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    Yep…
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    Rock Bangen', Desert Tamin', Gold Findin' Machine!
    What does Toyota say regarding PVC valve maintenance??
     
  11. Jul 20, 2018 at 7:15 AM
    #11
    BillsSR5

    BillsSR5 Looking out for #1

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    hmm supposedly every 30k miles(not Toyota) mines at 100k miles was thinking the same as the OP to change it out,on my previous tacomas I would just pull it out rattle it and clean it with carb cleaner, put back. since the 2.7l PCV is all plastic not sure using carb cleaner on it would be beneficial.
     
  12. Jul 20, 2018 at 7:24 AM
    #12
    Hobbs

    Hobbs Anti-Lander from way back…

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    Yep…
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    It is cheap insurance to change it out, but I would service it at regular intervals for a few years before replacement. Yeah, carb stay may damage the plastic. Prolly be better to use a mild solvent like Simple Green.
     
  13. Jul 20, 2018 at 7:32 AM
    #13
    knottyrope

    knottyrope Well-Known Member

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    I used a bore scope and peeked ay my internals, looks very clean inside the engine

    My brothers 1968 Nova had sludge about a 1/4 in think in his engine, didn't burn or use oil and ran well before his rebuild.

    My point is, many of us think these new engines are like the old ones.
    old cars had crap fuel, poor oil quality, and poor craftsmanship too
     
  14. Jul 20, 2018 at 10:51 AM
    #14
    BillsSR5

    BillsSR5 Looking out for #1

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    I just popped the hood to look at it, its positioned at the back of the valve cover and has a few things in the way that will have to be moved in order to get it out, hopefully without breaking the plastic valve. that grey looking tube above the PCV that's attached to a bracket might have to be removed it seems on mine its blocking the area too much for easy removal https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YjQYLVp5s-k
     
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  15. Jul 20, 2018 at 11:05 AM
    #15
    81shark

    81shark Well-Known Member

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    for the 2.7L it is 22mm. i was able to turn it by hand with the deep well socket on it. but to be fair, i pulled it out with the valve cover off. but the cover back on, and then changed the PCV a few days later when my part arrived.

    i popped the wires off the bracket to create a little space.

    took about 5 minutes total. it's a 0.5 / 10 on the difficulty scale.
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2018
    Nessmuk likes this.
  16. Jul 20, 2018 at 11:42 AM
    #16
    BillsSR5

    BillsSR5 Looking out for #1

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    so basically if I get a 22mm deep on it with a good Kung Fu grip i can twist it off like that?
     
  17. Jul 20, 2018 at 12:54 PM
    #17
    81shark

    81shark Well-Known Member

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    in theory. it is plastic threads and the torque number is not very high. don't think i could get the ratchet on the socket.. may need use to big pliers to turn the socket to break it loose. shouldn't be hard to do
     
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  18. Jul 20, 2018 at 1:11 PM
    #18
    Pork Chopper

    Pork Chopper Well-Known Member

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    I changed mine at 190k as a preventive measure and it looked like new. I'm a V6 but I found an OEM valve on eBay for $8 shipped.
     
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    tsb and BillsSR5 like this.
  19. Jun 27, 2024 at 10:20 AM
    #19
    roninmd

    roninmd Member

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    Use Isopropyl alcohol to clean it, then make sure it's dry before reinstalling it hand tight. Once it is seated, give it a 15 degree turn. It should have a 0 ring to seal it to spec. If you wanna be extra, use plumber's tape for non OEM parts. Check rubber hose for cracks or leaks. A crack here increases the amount of unmetered air going to the throttle body and makes the ECU calculate the wrong air/fuel ratio. I have the 2.7L 2005 Tacoma @ 340K.
     

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