Parking Brake Adjustment

I have tried looking around on here for some info about the parking brake, but I can't seem to find anything. Does the parking brake have any maintenane items? I have accidentally left it on a couple times and tried to take off. The truck didn't really move, but I was wondering if tension adjustments are ever needed? Also how do you adjust it/make sure it's in "spec"?

 

I read through that thread, but the only thing I got from it was to remove the grommet and adjust. He said you should get 5-6 clicks on the e-brake. Is that within Toyota spec? I just don't really understand how to tell if my truck is within spec.

 

Anybody else?

 

back up

hit park brake to stop

repeat

it self adjusts

+

lift center console trim

minor cable adjustment right there

park brake has to be able to hold vehicle at 1000rpm (auto tranny)
but that is legal minimum, should and can be way stronger than that

 

I didn't realize that the parking brake could even be adjusted like that. You're not trolling me right now are you?

 

No he isn't trolling you. Every time you back up and apply the brakes ( I usually pump the brake pedal ) the brake adjuster ( star wheel ) should make any required brake adjustment. It will also work when you use the parking brake.

For manual adjustment read this:

http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old.../06toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/042010.pdf

ADJUST REAR DRUM BRAKE SHOE CLEARANCE
(a) Provisionally install the hub nuts.
(b) Remove the hole plug, and turn the adjuster to expand the shoe until the drum locks.
(c) Using a screwdriver, release the adjuster 15 notches.
(d) Install the hole plug.

The issue that sometimes occurs is when the actual cables get stretched and needs to be mechanically adjusted. That is done under the center console.

http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old...6toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/04300110.pdf

 

Hey I know this is an older thread but it seems to be the best I’ve found, does anyone have any idea where the parking brake adjustment is on a single cab? I know where it is in all the other models but it isn’t under my cup holder/center console area

 

What type seats do you have?
Separate or Bench?

If it’s a Bench, slide the seat all the way back.
It’s under the carpet. At least that what I’ve read.

 

Here are some drawings that may help you. Notice the cover over the Bench seat option that is under the carpet in the third sheet down. That covers the adjustment area.

 

I’ve got to try this out this weekend. I appreciate you going to the trouble to find this schematic. My parking brake holds, but really only holds well at max extension. I don’t like it that way, and I’m always having to park on mostly level ground so I don’t run the risk of it stretching even further and allowing the truck to roll, even a little. That would be no bueno.

 

Well Plucky, You should probably start by adjusting the rear drum brakes before tightening up the cable. It may take care of the problem by itself.

The oval plug is for the adjustment spoon and the round plug is for brake shoe inspection.

 

Apply the parking brake, release, repeat about half a dozen times. It turns the star without crawling under the truck. Post#13

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/adjusting-rear-drum-brakes.533792/

 

Honestly you should be taught in person by someone who knows what they are doing.

Ideally you start by adjusting the drum, preferably with the drum on, until it has drag.

Next you check free play in the cable, usually fine, rarely needs adjustment.

Then check for clicks from the parking brake lever.

It doesn't auto adjust over time, otherwise all tacomas that are manuals would be set, but rarely are.

 

@Jimmyh & @Shelf Life & @Bishop84

Thank you all for the tips, I’ll put it to good use. And @Bishop84 , if I get into a pickle we’ve got an excellent mechanic 4 minutes away. He’s already used to my sometimes incompetent mechanical endeavors, as he learned when it came time for me to install my OME suspension a little over a year ago.

 

Let us know how it turns out.

 

Unfortunately, those heavy heavy rains flung away from Hurricane Hanna kept my attention on other preventive maintenance items around my property this weekend, so that parking brake had to wait. We weren’t anywhere near the direct path and we didn’t even get any bad winds — but the rain was epic. Not good for those folks in more directly affected areas.

 

What book/document is this from? Looks like a good service manual.

 

It is from the Toyota Shop Service Manual.

 

Just wanted to let everyone know that I was able to adjust my parking break by just pulling on the the parking brake about 12 times. It worked great!

 

Great info from you all, here's more and probably TMI!I If you've done the drum/star-adjusters first, (one way or another, MUCH better to remove the drum to see, much easier to back adjusters off when you have a new drum and/or minimal rusty drum edges which make drum removal and testing horrible or worse) :
...with the rear wheels up and in neutral, let's say your e-brake was only engaging after something like 10 clicks of the pull handle and it wasn't braking much on full pull (rats, forgot to count the total clicks when I had mine too loose but probably around 20) AND you are sure your shoes/stars are adjusted, you probably want to tighten to where something like 6,7,..? clicks = starts to drag rear wheels a little. Then...more detail on how to do... Not sure why auto transmission tacos would be so different but...

On my 2006 Tacoma extra cab manual 5 speed with bucket seats (not bench), the E-brake cable adjustment is very accessible by simply prying up the cup holders assembly with something like flat screwdriver and/or putty knife. No need on mine to remove console, as shown by my pic. Once cupholders are out, two 12mm wrenches will do the cable adjust. Start by loosening the lock nut closest to the end of the rod/shaft, then tighten the inner nut, keep checking both wheels as you tighten with the pull handle pulled/set around 5-7 clicks, at which you want minimal brake/drum drag and you probably want zero drag at 3 clicks. Once achieved, release pull handle to fully DISengaged/IN like normal driving position, check both wheels again that they are fully released/free, when happy tighten the lock nut a bit so the inner adjuster nut won't wiggle loose over time of course. For me, this makes it so I can only pull the handle with all my strength at around 12-13 clicks. Mine got new e-cables around 90k from dealer during 2014 frame replacement. So why am I here at the cable? Just this month I personally replaced rear brake shoes (cleaning and greasing threads of the drum adjusters too) at 170k/2023, first rear brake job for this truck. After which, the new shoes seemed nowhere near as effective as the old half worn shoes, and despite my patient/repetitive drum/star adjustments I also had a lower brake pedal and a looser e-brake. So in this first month, I re-pulled my drums (twice, every couple weeks), kept re-bleeding since I also installed new cylinders (cheap/good/$12 ea ACDelco from Auto) during the new shoes,etc job, kept readjusting/checking drum adjustment as well as spraying drums w brake cleaner and sanded the surfaces a little on all shoes!
And still had semi-low pedal, semi-loose e-brake until today when I tightened the cable under my cup holders. I'm gonna guess the cables stretch slightly over the first few years but since drum/shoe/star adjustments have even more to do with this in most situations, it is tricky to know everything. I got fooled thinking I had air in the brake fluid/lines/cylinders! Though I could get a high pedal by depressing twice quickly, apparently pumping once faster than the drum hardware could fall back and loosen during the pedal release. (I'm pretty sure air in the lines decompresses as fast as you can pump). Just my take as an ex/old school 1980-ish mechanic who did too many drum jobs on 70's era American beasts, and the drum hardware is a bit different on my limited/Toyota experience in my house garage with only my own trucks to fret and learn from. Peace/out.