Paint Question- Dupli-color

Replacing bedside on 05, need to match white bedside with black factory paint. what steps should I take to prep, plan on just using duplicator spray can paint with a clear coat finish... thanks

 

Vehicle enthusiast forums that aren't related to auto painting are generally full of bad info. Maybe its because people don't do their own paint jobs (unless they are trail beaters). And this one seems to be generally worse than others. Dunno why but there it is. So try this http://lmgtfy.com/?q=How+to+prep+and+paint+a+car#

 

I paint... You will need denatured alcohol, sand paper grits 200 450 and 1000. Sandable primer, paint, and a can of clear coat. First step. Take the fender down to a printable surface. You don't need to sand to bare metal.use 200 and be sure to take all o the clear coat off. Step 2 Use an air compressor to blow the dust off then use an alcohol dampened towel that won't shed to clean the remaining dust off. Step 3, Spray an even coat of sandable filler primer allow to dry following can instructions. Use 400 grit to lightly sand the primer.repair blemishes as the primer is the durability and image of your paint. Repeat step 2. If your happy with your primer and the air temp is below 90 and above 70 humidity less than 70% time to lay down some color. (Remember! The primer is the durability and image of your paint. Paint will only magnify any blemishes in the primer. you cannot fill or cover defects in primer with paint.) No more alcohol. Start with reading the cans instructions for distance and time lapse. Start with the lips and corners don't go crazy this takes 3-4 coats to be done correctly. Then use a steady strait motion left to right and lay down some spray keep a steady distance steady pace. This part is important. Start spraying before you get over the surface. And don't stop till you run off the other side. You will end up with a start point that is thin and splotchy and an end that is runny and thick. Start spraying say 4" before and 4" after keeping it nice and smooth. OK finally the end! If you have any runs or spots that need help. Tape off a 4x4 square around the area. Use 1000 grit paper to blend the blemish. 1 lite coat to bring back the color if you go crazy you will end up with an extra gas lid from the tape lines. Lol remove tape after painting the spot now the end. Apply clear coat same as the paint. The clear coat doesn't highly affect the appearance of the paint as far as blemishes. But it is the sealer and life of the paint. And can show dust like a mirror if you're not working in a clean environment. Side notes; paint doenst stick to sharp edges it will chip... Long sanding sponges work best. A hard sanding pad will leave you with bare spots and scratches. A wise man once told me. Good paint ain't cheap, and cheap paint ain't good. Post step by step pictures bud and best of luck! I'll do a formal write up on my next project with photos! Matter of fact I've got a fender to paint this week on my 01 taco. Tan.

 

thanks for the input, time to get started!

 

I would add that you want to clean and degrease before ever touching the fender with sandpaper. If not you drive any oils or silicones that are on the surface into the substrate and you will have problems with things like fisheyes. Clean between each step and finish with a tack cloth. The air and rinse won't necessarily get all the loose dust and grit. When sanding and scuffing pay attention to corners and edges and get every nook and cranny. Its a pain in the ass but thats where your paint will peel off. Read the manufacturers technical data for your paint and primer then follow their instructions (temp, humidity, recoat times, etc.) to a tee.

 

I just noticed that the Duplicolor Perfect match paint (which I had planned to use myself on a grill color match) is an acrylic laquer product. Back in the day I painted a lot of cars using laquer, enamel, and the new at the time urethanes. Laquer was really nice because it didn't contain dangerous hardeners and catalysts and was very forgiving to apply. Plus there was just no beating its shine and depth so custom and show jobs were almost always done with laquer. The problem was durability and longevity. Garaged laquer jobs might last a decade or two but daily drivers might last only a few years before cracking and crazing. If the primer, paint, and clear was applied too heavy or quickly it might happen in onoy a few months or years. Could be that the modern acrylic laquers have solved those problems. Could also be that the modern low VOC requirements have created other problems. I dunno, <shrug> things change. But for my money, unless its a trail rig that I expect to have a short paint life, I would stick to the enamel and urethane automotive paint products.

 

Before I make my next thread post I figured I would let whoever is interested know, as usual I have held off on putting any money into this repair for the mean time... entertaining the thought of a complete paint job, wrap, something to get a better look. Who knows im trying to get this high mileage truck handling like the day it left the dealership if not better.