P2432 Code

I'm starting a new thread so I don't derail this one any more: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...should-read-this.449563/page-14#post-13362262
My comments start at post 265.
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http://www.autocodes.com/p2432_toyota.html

Possible causes - Faulty Pressure Sensor - Pressure Sensor harness is open or shorted - Pressure Sensor circuit poor electrical connection

I can't find any bad wires, the connectors are clean and tight. I don't know yet how to check the pressure sensor. I disconnected the battery for an hour, didn't help. The pump ran this morning on a cold start.It sounded normal. I reset the code while the pump was running, the check engine light went out and came back on right away. I also removed the new filter and put the old foam back in, no joy there either.

I guess I need to test the switch, anyone know how?

 

The autcodes article you point to indicates:

HINT: As a large current is required to drive the air pump and ASV, an AID has been added to the previous system.

The following discusses a problem that might be similar to yours. Code is not quite the same, but something to think about. TSB Discusses AID issue with Sequoia/Tundra. Could this apply to you?

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/amedee/2011-02-09_003303_1.pdf

 

Thanks Lester, but I don't think I have AIDs Seriously I don't think I have that extra driver, but I don't know..?

I don't know if the pressure sensor is NO or NC. If I find that out it would help me. I do have a plan, as dumb as it may sound...

In the morning when the truck is cold, I'm going to have my wife start the truck while I'm ready to give that switch a good rap with a... good rapping device, aka screwdriver handle. Dunno if it will help or not, but it's something I can try.

Thank you Lester for trying to help, I do appreciate it.

 

CurtB

I Think this is the sensor you are looking for on the left side of the print. I sent you a complete copy.

The Diagnostics:

The AID drives the ASV and the air pump according to command signals transmitted by the ECM. The pressure sensor detects the pressure in the secondary air passage when the AIR system is ON and OFF, and transmits pressure signal to the ECM.

 

This is a diagram from the service manual:

 

Thanks Jimmy. That pressure switch is not just a NO or NC switch, so it's not as simple to check as I had hoped.

 

The small hose from the ASV goes to a switch/sensor in the back side of the air intake tube, before the TB. That must be the pressure sensor, right? It only has 2 wires going to it, but that schematic is showing 3 wires. I'm confused.

 

Found a part number on it: 89421-71010, Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor.... cost is over $200 ouch!

Not buying one just yet.

 

Yes, it is an actual sensor and not a switch.

 

I may just pull it off tomorrow and stare at it real hard, may make it start working.. Just so I know for sure I am looking at the right sensor I'm going to post a picture. This is a 2010 2.7L.

 

The part number is 89421-71010

 

Sometimes it does indeed work. My icemaker fan in the fridge was not working. I bought a new fan and it started working again before I could replace it. That was over 6 months ago and it's still working...

 

Pressure Sensor harness is open or shorted.

Fucking packrat! After I got the connector unplugged, which was a challenge in it self, there are indeed 3 wires into that sensor. A packrat had bit off one wire and ate about a quarter inch of it so I didn't see that it was gone. There are three wires where I could only see two. It was bit off so close to the connector that I had to trim into the rubber part of the connector to maybe an eighth of an inch was sticking out. With a pencil iron I was able to get a good joint. It only took 2 tries! a record for me.

Started the truck, cleared the code, looking good! Applied a few shots of tequila as a reward.

Thank you all that have tried to help. A big shout out to @Jimmyh for the schematics. You sir have a gold star by your name today!

 

Blasted yummy food based wire coating.....

 

Excellent news Curt!

Them damn rats be cursed!

 

FYI- A friend told me this: Use a short tin such as tuna comes in, or cut down a soup can. Screw it to a scrap 2x4 so the rat can't carry it off. Fill it with rice, and pour a little Coke on it. The rats eat it but can't digest it so it kills them (horribly, painfully I hope!) It seems to have worked.

I have rat poison blocks out, always, as that is life in the country. The rats this time didn't touch the bait blocks, but ate the rice. No rat sign at all since then. I will keep up both the poison and the rice, forever more.

:deadrat:

 

With the helpful information that you all above posted, I located the connector to the sensor, and there was a pile of tree seeds and nut shells there, and one of the wires had been chewed through! (The middle gray one, in the photo above.) I repaired the connector by cutting a section from a sewing needle and stuck one end into the cable wire end, between the insulation and the wire metal, and the other end of the needle I inserted into the stub of the chewed through wire on the connector. Then I put a lot of Shoo-Goo adhesive all over it, and wrapped it with a little Gorilla tape and re-inserted the connector. If it didn't work, or last, I figured I could purchase a connector and/or cable for a more permanent solution. However, it worked fine, and I've been good to go for almost a year now!

To prevent repeat rodent damage I research rat repellents, and they're mostly aromatic oils, like peppermint oil in a detergent solution in a spray bottle and expensive for the amount of the aromatic oil you're getting. So I bought a bottle of pure peppermint oil at my local supermarket, and liberally applied it to the engine interior, being careful not to get the oil on any belts or anything else that might have its functionality compromised. The peppermint oil smelled nice, but seemed to evaporate fairly fast, so I switched to clove oil, which doesn't smell as nice but lasts a lot longer, but still, only one to three weeks, depending upon how often I drive. So, I also spread an old blanket under where I park my car (outside, kind of rural area) and poured some Pinesol on the blanket for the strong smell it makes. I park with my Tacoma with the engine over the blanket and that, with the regular application of clove oil seems to have deterred subsequent chewing problems.

I had known about rodent damage, but thought, "Oh, that won't happen to me, it's probably a rare occurrence."

My neighbor uses moth balls (naphthalene) placed inside the engine compartment, but that makes a terrible (to me) smell inside his car, but more important, naphthalene is toxic, not seriously toxic but I prefer not to breathe that in.

Thanks again to everyone for the information posted!