P0441 evap incorrect purge flow on oBD2 scanner

Gents

I have what I need to create smoke if need be but before going through the hassle of crimping off certain valves is there a process of elimination that may save me time?

It started maybe 6 or 7 months ago and I had ordered a gas cap from Napa for maybe 10 bucks and I don’t remember the brand and there is no name on the cap. Should I order the oem and start from there?
In the mean time I believe I can test the purge control valve and move on from there but my Haynes manual doesn’t cover these tests.

one thing to mention a few days ago a friend and I were checking my hoses under the hood and the CE light went off (I did not clear it). Of course it came back on two days later.

any guidance is greatly appreciated

 

Unplug the purge valve electrically (you may set a circuit code for the valve) and the line and see if there's vacuum present with the engine running, if there is the valve is bad, if there isnt apply power to the valve and see if it opens, if not it's bad.

 

Thanks for the reply.
I know where to unplug the harness to the valve but when you say line do you mean the hose connecting to it?

 

Yes the line coming from the tank, it should have a little black muffler inline.

 

I was wondering what that thing was. Ok I’ll
Give it a go and thanks again

 

Just replace the Purge Solenoid ! Problem Fixxed !

 

I’m going to then. Why are some parrrs 50$ and the others 100$ - same manufacturer

 

Swapped it out let it run a few times lights still there. Does it take ten cycles To clear or
Should it have? I went with the brand inter motor costed me over $100

 

I’ll run a meter on the harness in the am make sure it’s getting power

 

Disconnect Battery terminals for 15 minutes or more and reconecct ! Will erase code !

 

Will the code erase on its own if the issues fixed? I have a scan tool I can clear it with I was just hoping to solve the issue without waiting two days to see if it comes back

I’m gojng to connect the old one to check for vacuum I didn’t know I could wirh my finger. I put power to it and it made a loud clicking noise kind of like a relay would but louder

 

While I’m not 100% sure, I don’t think it will clear on its own
After all? What’s the difference in waiting 2 days to see if it clears on its own, vs clearing it and waiting 2 days?

Unless you need to have an emissions test done soon, Clear It.
Call it done, and drive it.

And if you do need to have an emissions test done, you probably won’t pass with the light on. So what’s clearing it really going to hurt?

 

Excellent points. Cleared. Now to wait and see

thanks for your help. All of you ill keep this threat updated.

 

So my light has been off since I cleared it days ago and the scanner is showing (since DTCs were last cleared) that the evap monitor is ok and no longer incomplete. I believe this is a good sign of course I’ll continue to keep an eye on it. Thanks guys

 

Hey @MarkNap128 , did the light ever come back?

I had the P0441 code last summer, dealer diagnosed the valve 25860-0P010 as bad. I replaced it myself and the code/CEL went away for a few months. Returned and cleared on it's own a couple of times and now it's back. Cleared it again and it came back after about 20 miles. Of course I have to get it inspected this month...

Thinking I'll disconnect the battery as recommended above and see what happens.

Open to any other suggestions. Thanks in advance

 

Hey man!

so this did fix the issue for me and I was able to get my truck inspected. Then so many months later untik about a month or two ago I got the light on for mass air flow sensor issues. I cleaned mine and the light went off on its own. Then it came back and did this twice. I swapped mine out and I have all sort of codes now im needing to work on and one is actually the p0441 incorrect purge flow code. I’m not sure why but I’m sure it’s all related I have bank 1 and 2 running lean. Mass air flow sensor circuit low and shit it’s sucks

 

Sorry I asked .
That sucks. I hope you’re able to get it all cleaned up without too much additional pain.

I drove my ‘07 for ten years and 350K miles and never threw an emissions code.. just sayin.

 

All good glad if I can help. If that’s the only code then I’d put my money on the purge valve. I’ll also add that I took the original
Out and tried blowing through it and couldn’t. I put a voltage on it and it opened right up. so unless you put a vacuum and gauge on it it’s hard to know if it’s faulty as it may seem like it’s working but it isn’t.

 

Put a vacuum gauge on the canister side of the purge valve with the engine running. There should be no vacuum present there unless the pcm is commanding it open. Any vacuum at all, even a little bit, is a bad purge valve

 

The good news- disconnected the battery and replaced the purge valve pump (Toyota brand) and got my inspection sticker

The bad - P0441 is back.

Anyone have a suggestion on what to check next? Vehicle particulars are above, truck has approximately 113K miles.

I’d rather not wait until it’s -20 next February

in advance.