P0330 code- Knock Sensor

Code just popped up today I believe. Felt a thud under my foot and checked my codes and there it was. Looks like a knock sensor. Any advice?

 

Yep, replace knock sensor. You will not fix this by resetting anything. Replace both and the knock sensor pigtail while in there. It's a weekend job for the uninitiated.

 

Could it tripped by something else? There’s something under there that been rattling maybe a skid plate or heat shield for awhile now. My check engine lights been on for months with the p0171 code. I usually reset it once a month just to check for other codes. Today when I was leaving school I pulled out of the parking lot and heard a thud under a foot. I don’t know if I was my backpack in the pack, a rock or something, or something related to the knock sensor :/ Is it safe to drive it like this. It’s my dd. This is really a bummer, I’ve been haunted with car issues this past year.

 

Just cleared the code and drove it around the neighborhood and it felt fine.

 

Yeah it'll sometimes stay clear for half a day or so and then come back up. It technically means ECU fails to receive feedback signal from the KS. Different than detecting knock.

 

So most likely just the wire harness?

 

Sorry but probably the knock sensor itself. But you always replace the wire harness while you're in there because it gets very brittle and it's only like $14

 

Ok, is it ok to drive it with the code?

 

@Timmah! Do you have a video on this?

 

Well, it might be the knock sensor just doing it's job and it's picking up a problem with your motor. I would first clean your MAF sensor because that will most likely fix your P0171 code. After that, clear the codes and see what happens.

 

I replaced the maf a few weeks back and p0171 came back after I believe. When I checked the codes yesterday it actually wasnt on so I’m not sure about that. It switches between p0171 and p0420. I was wondering if it’s safe to drive with the knock sensor code if it comes back. The trucks my only car.

 

Did you replace the MAF with an OEM or aftermarket one? You can drive with a knock sensor code but it might be telling you something is up with your engine and not just the fact that the sensor or wiring is bad. A P0420 code could be a problem with your rear O2 sensor, possibly a problem with your catalytic converter, or possibly something else because all these codes can have multiple causes.

The reason why I asked if you fixed your too lean condition is that condition could cause a knock sensor code from what I read. If you used an aftermarket MAF sensor and you're still getting the P0171 code, I'd recommend getting yourself an OEM MAF. You could possibly find a working used one at a PickNPull lot. If you didn't throw away your old MAF, it might be that all it needed was a good cleaning. Did you try cleaning it before replacing it?

 

I replaced the MAF with Denso. Im thinking the p0420 may an exhaust leak before the rear 02 sensor. The cel came back on after I replaced the MAF. The p0171 and p0420 kind of come and go in my truck. The truck runs fine no loss of power that I can tell. Checked the cel after I heard a weird thud and saw that the p0330 code was there. Like I said my cel stays on so the p0330 codes couldve popped up who knows when.

 

Not sure about the 2000, but the 1996 repair manual says with code P0330 the computer goes into Fail-Safe mode "max timing retardation" which should make a noticeable difference in power.

I'm not sure anyone can help you much more at this point until you actually go and inspect the sensors and wiring. It could be a broken wire or the sensor came loose (unscrewed).

P0330 is for the left bank knock sensor.
P0325 is for the right bank knock sensor.

 

The code came back today. I was looking at this sensor on rock auto. I think it’s the same manufacturer the oem ones are. Matsushita? https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...ust+&+emission,knock+/+detonation+sensor,5108

 

Which one? The first one that says MATSUSHITA, when you click on info it says "Ultra-Power products come from a variety of sources including re-packaged, well-known brands and ISO/TSO/QS certified overseas factories. They share some of the same suppliers as the big brands do but keep costs low to pass the savings on to you."

Before you buy parts you should inspect the wiring and sensor. If you want to blow money and replace working parts with new parts that's fine. It's your money. Others have said a lot of times it is a wire that is broken that is throwing the code. You won't know until you look!

 

Honestly if I tear half the engine apart I’m probably just going to replace both sensors and the wire harness. Not worth it to me to do all that and not fix the problem and have to do it again. Especially if I pay someone to do it.

 

I was looking at the $120 Masushita knock sensors

 

I just put these in. Seem almost too cheap but they appear genuine. Truck has been running fine:
https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/183254451977

Harness is here widely avail on eBay and from dealer, part no. 82219-34010

don’t forget intake manifold gaskets, plenum gaskets, throttle body gasket, etc

 

Your OEM lasted how many miles? I think it'd be silly to cheap out on knock sensors with the chance of it popping another one quickly. If you're doing all that work, put the good stuff in. Find a discount Toyota parts dealer online. The link above is 99% Chinese reproductions. Now, they may be fine, but it's such a crapshoot.

Again, the code you're getting isn't because it's detecting knock. It's because the ECU isn't getting feedback signal from the knock sensor, meaning it's defective. You won't get a CEL if it's just "picking up" knock.