Over torqued oil canister

Anyone had a canister overtorqed at the dealership?
I’m getting ready to do my first diy oil change and have seen some horror stories on YouTube
I don’t want to go aluminum because I’d rather the plastic threads mess up than the ones in the block
Thanks in advance

 

If its over torqued, take it back to the dealer that did the oil change last and have them deal with it.

 

Then get a spare before you try and remove so your prepared/worst case. I’ve not had 1 issue with the plastic filter (but I’ve done all the changes myself AND I’ve torqued to spec each part). I also bought the aluminum as a spare because of the “horror” stories here but like I said never needed it

 

I'm trying to avoid the dealership as I just don't trust them.
If I take it back to them because I can't remove it I'll be in the same spot next change'
I bought the newest Motivx tool to remove it, doesn't have those fingers like the older model tool'
I guess the old tool had slots rather than fingers.

 

Get a better oil wrench and get familiar how to set it on the housing. It will give some resistance at first (even if it was torque to specs), but comes off easy.

 

I've done the research and I believe the

$30 Motivx MX2320 Motivx Tools Oil Filter Wrench for Toyota Camry, Tundra, Tacoma, 4Runner, RAV4 and More - 64mm 14 Flute Precision CNC Machined Aluminum Oil Filter Removal Tool

Motivx MX2320 64.3 mm 14 flute tool is best on the market. I could be wrong, I've been wrong many times before.

 

Get the Lexus metal housing, 18'' or 24'' breaker bar and a metal removal tool. Makes it a joke.
Never brought to a dealership.
I always hand tighten with a 9'' or 12'' ratchet, just snug. Kinda of like an old spin on oil filter but a bit more
Never overdo it, not the kind of stripping I want to see.
Check after a drive for leaks, you good for 6 months.

 

Check to see if you can get the filter off before you drain the oil. That way if its stuck on you didn’t waste time and money draining the oil then refilling so you can drive somewhere to get it un-stuck

 

Same here, except I use each filter holder, the plastic and aluminum alternately. As soon as I have removed the filter I have the other all prepped with the new filter and put it in and leave the cleaning for after I'm done changing the oil. It is a little thing but makes life a bit easier.

 

I bought this filter wrench:

$18 Capri Tools Forged Toyota Oil Filter Wrench, for Toyota/Lexus with 2.5L to 5.7L Engines

https://www.amazon.com/Capri-Tools-...t=&hvlocphy=9007492&hvtargid=pla-568238568630

I have a Feb 2022 appointment at the dealership in Maryland I bought my TRD Sport from in Easton for 10K mile maintenance. My first experience was at a dealership here in Delaware and they did not resolve my concerns about the quality of work (over-torqued bolts and careless workmanship) even after speaking with the Service Manager.

I'll be sure to brief the Service Manager in Maryland about my previous experience and make sure the bolts are not over-torqued and that I will be inspecting area worked prior to my departure.

I'll have questions concerning the plastic filter and if it was over-torqued during removal.

Ed

****

 

Same deal with the differentials, gotta make sure fill plug can be loosened first.

 

I am sure there are quite a few people out there that learned this the hard way, lol.

 

Seriously? It's not that common. Don't plan for a chance of failure. Just freaking do it.

I have to break one plastic cap off every 2 years, and I do hundreds of oil changes.

 

I just changed my oil and broke my cap. Bought another one from the dealer for a pretty penny of 62$. Do yourself a favor and get a spare beforehand from Amazon and save some potential money

 

On my previous 4runner the dealer overtorqued the cap enough to warp the plastic. (I think they used a impacted and fucking sent it) When I changed my own oil I had to beat the cap tool on and take it off then had to beat the cap out to get it off.

Pretty upset tbh, however I was replacing it with an aluminum one that change so I had a new cap already.

 

Yeah, aluminum seems like the way to go. If I didn’t need the truck up and running that day I would have waited a day and had one shipped to me

 

The seal drag is pretty heavy from the factory. Mine has never been serviced by a dealer. I've done 6 oil changes myself and each time it takes a 17" breaker bar to loosen. Reinstalling the cap takes a 8" ratchet all the way until the cap flange meets the housing lip.

 

I changed my oil last week. The change before that was at the dealer. And yes my filter cap was stupid tight. Like it twisted a little and the tool was stuck to it. I had to use a breaker bar to get it loose. Probably replace it next change.

 

Great post OP. I'm the only one to have changed oil/filter in my truck. Last oil change I could not get the damn metal piece at bottom to insert the Motivex tube to drain oil from filter. Ended up taking the entire filter housing off and oil splashed everywhere. Even with the housing off I could not budge the stupid metal piece....vice is no where to found in my shop. Stupid me. How the hell could that thing get so tight?

You folks have this oil housing part number handy? Or the aluminum one mentioned in the post? Thank you

 

Also helps a bit with cooling the oil!