Our Lady of the Highway

O Lady of the Highway,
be with us on our journey,
for all your ways are beautiful
and all your paths are peace.
O God, who with unspeakable
providence does rule and govern
the world, grant unto us, your servants,
through the intercessions
of our watchful mother,
to be protected from all danger
and brought safely to the
end of our journey







All Suspension Hardware was replaced with Titanium during installation for life-time all-weather Endurance
*Annodized at home with 3 9volt batteries, $2.99 alligator clips from walmart and a stainless screw in a Baking soda - water solution in a tupperware.
Torqued to spec.


Suspenion:Bilstein6112/5160 on setting 3/2
Tires:Michelin Defender LTX: 265/70r/16
Factory.L - Bilstein.R


2017 Toyota Tacoma TRD Off-Road 6mt.
-TRD™ exhaust
-TRD™ CAI
-TRD™ Oil Cap
-TRD™ Radiator Cap
-TRD PRO™ Shift knob (+2inch extension)
Suspenion:Bilstein6112/5160 on setting 3/2
Tires:Michelin Defender LTX: 265/70r/16
Hardware: Titanium from Ti-64 -Deep blue@26.2v
Torque Spec. information: https://www.ti64.com/v/vspfiles/assets/docs/fasteners 101 torque.pdf

Toyota Install Guide

Nut & Bolt Sizes
-Front Top Hat Nut: M10x1.25 (Qty.6)
-Front Lower Strut Bolt&nut: M14x1.5x76 (qty 2)
-Rear strut top Nut size: M10x1.5 (Qty.2
-Rear lower strut bolt: M12x1.25x70
-Rear Shackle bolt: M14x1.5 x 100mm long.
-Front recovery hook: 12 x 1.25 x 60 mm grade 8.8 #90119-A0193
-M12-1.25 (1.75)
-front sway link m12
-license plate bolt/washer M6x1x20mm
-alignment cam m16

Toyota Part#:
Strut bolt assembly
-90105-A0113: bolt
-90178-A0058: nut
-91622-41400: washer
Suspension/Control Arm/Alignment Cam
-Upper Control Arm Nut 90080-17208 x2
-Outer Tie Rod 45046-09340 x2
-CV Dust Cap, Grease Cap 43514-28010 x2
-Adjust Cam, RIGHT 48409-60020 x2
-Adjust Cam, LEFT 48190-60020 x2
-Adjust Cam, LEFT 48198-60011 x2
-Bolt W Washer 90119-A0166 x2
-Control Arm Nut 90178-A0001 x2
-Front Strut Lower Bolt, Bolt Flange 90105-A0113 x2
-Front Strut Lower Nut, Gear Assembly Nut 90178-A0058 x2

Torque Spec (Toyota)
Lug nuts: 83 ft-lbs
FRONT:
Brake caliper mounting bolts: 90 ft-lbs
Brake caliper banjo bolt: 22 ft-lbs
Steering knuckle to lower ball joint: 59 ft-lbs ~USE LOCTITE~
Outer tie-rod to lower ball joint: 67 ft-lbs
Lower control arm to frame (alignment cams): 96 ft-lbs
Lower control arm to shock absorber: 101 ft-lbs (may vary with aftermarket equip)
Lower control arm to swaybar end link: 51 ft-lbs
Lower ball joint to lower control arm: 112 ft-lbs
Upper ball joint to upper control arm: 80 ft-lbs
Upper control arm to frame: 87 ft-lbs
Shock absorber upper mount (3 bolts): 47 ft-lbs (may vary with aftermarket equip)
Shock absorber center nut: 22 ft-lbs
Swaybar to swaybar end link: 22 ft-lbs
Swaybar brackets to frame: 19 ft-lbs


REAR:
Shock absorber to axle: 53 ft-lbs
Shock absorber to frame: 53 ft-lbs

Titanium Anodize Voltage:
-Deep blue: 26.2v
-Also clean in SimpleGreen first, that gets the oil off, that will bake into the metal.
-suspend in solution with alum. wire
-use distilled water
-note solution, temp and TI source

 

Sick dude

 

A fellow Hoosier I see. Born and raised in Indianapolis myself. Nice truck by the way.

 

that stick though! what are we driving, rigs? lol. anodize looking good!

 

That first picture of the back road looks like it could been have taken where I live.

 

Titanium eh? Gaht damn son. Also, I appreciate the small font, idk why.

 

Ironically the Toyota TRD-PRO shift knob for the 3rd Gen Tacomas is designed very similar to the legendary Eaton-Fuller 18spd knobs found in Semi's.

Straight from the Factory, the 6mt in the Tacoma is probably the best manual transmission/gearbox ever put into a passenger truck. It truly shifts like a sports-car.
Like everyone else who ever sees/feels the TRD-PRO knob, at first you are skeptical, because its larger and "squarer" than what many are used to, but something about it "just works".
Its ergonomics, its fit and feel in hand is just perfect for the truck.
That said, I would typically never mess with something "geometry" wise like the shift position, as it was already great, but I stuck a 2"inch extension I had at the house on it, and found that slight raise in height, and increased leverage point gave it this gliding, effortless throw from gear to gear. I Used one of the 3/4 rubber Lowes™ grommets in the boot connector.
I believe the Shifter threads are

$13 M12x1.25 mm Self-Locking Nylon Insert Hex Lock Nuts, Pack of 6

M12x1.25

 

^ consider the Core Shifter upgrade. If you think the factory shifter "shifts like a sportscare" Core Shifters is on a completely different level. Combined with the OVT 2.0 SFOB premium tune, the trucks quite fun to drive now.

 

Nice truck OP.

Once you get it tuned, you should really think about removing the accumulator.

I don't understand people who say it doesn't make a difference after removal. Maybe they don't know how to drive stick?

Good luck!

 

Looked into those a lot, like them and the Hurst stuff is undeniable quality.
However,
I have this 'personal hang-up' about egregious modification away from "Factory", and to me changing the Shifter or the computer would violate that internal principle.
I see the drivetrain, the Engine and the ECU tuning to be 'divine' characteristics of the Truck itself, the product of decades of tempered Toyota TRD Engineering department knowledge and experience.
Toyota trucks really are THAT good, and this one is probably the best they have ever made capability wise.

I already had to do a pretty solid mental-gymnastics routine to convince myself to put on the non-Toyota 2" extension to the shifter lol.

For example, this is the Factory Toyota ECU decision tree. If you cant understand or read it, dont worry, its because your human.
Now imagine the ECU is doing this every microsecond... It very quickly becomes obvious that end-users on open source APPs simply do not have the resources or testing to properly jack around with the ECU and utterly important factors like timing, ignition etc..

this takes nothing away from the outright impressive work the person behind OV-tune has done. and Im sure its 'fine' for most, but this goes back to that whole immaculate-truck thing lol.

Saw that too, and cant for the life of me figure out why people mess with the accumulator. It makes absolutely zero sense, and suggests they dont have enough experience with different types of clutch actuation to accurately know why they are removing such a device
The Clutch is hydraulic and designed as such for a reason, by Expert engineers at the largest automotive corporation in the world. I find it to be excellent, has great take up, great hold and gear changes are excellent.
Truly the only thing that needs to be changed is the Throttle pedal alignment, which needs to be brought into plane with the brake pedal.
For reference, this was my previous vehicle for ~10 years

 

I find it pretty poor to insinuate that people don't know how to drive a manual transmission if they dislike the accumulator... This is my first vehicle with an accumulator and I can definitely tell the difference. It's not devine. It's annoying and not consistent. I've had my truck since December 2015. I think by now I'd of figured it out... I learned to drive stick in the Mountains of WV and PA and have driven stick in a multitude of terrains... a slight modification to a factory set up is not going to harm the truck. Toyota's tuning on this truck was incomplete. The power management and delivery was dismal. But to each their own, I am sure the TRD caps will give you great performance!

curious to see what you do next.

 

i was talking about the extension to the shifter, but now that you mention it the knob does carry some sort of semblance to that of a semi. pretty cool tidbit of info nontheless. i do have to agree with some of my forum mates here though. the core shifter coupled with a sprint booster or ovtune to modulate your throttle will give your truck a whole different demeanor. i came from two stis. they are fun cars. i like driving the taco way more even though they dont make the power my stis made. in the end it is your build though, and like the person right above me mentioned, im also interested to see where you go next with it.

 

I'll put it this way, personally, A bunch of know-nothings anecdotal experience with clutches and ECU's after driving their uncle's Nissan ONCE when they were 17 simply isnt compelling enough to goof around with 'accumulator-delete' mods or home-brewed Engine management software made in some guys garage.

The 3rd Gen Toyota Tacoma is objectively the best performing Mid-sized truck ever released. Compared to anything in the segment across its history, across all brands, no other truck has combined EVERYTHING into a single package like this generation of truck. Every conceivable need is addressed with FACTORY support right from the word go. How could anyone have ANY complaints with this truck? how? What do people SERIOUSLY expect from Toyota at this point?

 

I expect my truck to run from the factory like it does now after the ADM and SFOB tune lol

 

Except shifter throw, right?

 

again your brain is smooth like a billiard-ball if you think that a 2"inch shift-knob adapter is in any way even comparable to tampering with the direct mechanism of clutch actuation
But to you reclining the seat is fundamentally the same as piggybacking the ECU with hacked software to edit engine firing and timing routines

 

So it's NOT... perfect from the factory?

I certainly wouldn't hack together some threaded extension horseshit in my garage just to make my shifter throws feel better. That's insanity.

BTW, why did you add a CAI and TRD exhaust to your truck. I'm curious.

Was it just for sound?

 

"I wouldnt try on different sizes of shoes, I would start removing toes"
This is you.

 

For any mods tracking this shitposting extravaganza, it's just karma coming ol 'kitty's way.

He's earned it.

That is all.

 

Now, I may just be your causual "know nothing" but prior to entering my current field, I turned wrenches and sold/managed part accounts. I feel I can base my 'anecdotal' opinions/findings on actual experience and knowledge, having driven many different manual transmissions from dump trucks and tractorst to Jeep's and even a Honda Accord...
My ranger didn't have absolutely dismal power management and delivery. It could actually pull a boat up a boat ramp without bogging/chugging... or needing 4low/2low (a sweet mod by the way) The new Bronco, the Chevy Z and Wrangler all have far better off road offerings from factory. OVT is a business. Not some 17 yr old in a garage. He has support for a vast array of vehicles, the Tacoma wasn't his only success. Again, you approach these issues with a high-almighty attitude like you're on a pedestal or something. Now, I do respect your wishes to keep your truck pure and factory. That is 100% up to you, your truck and your money. I have zero problems with that and it's actually refreshing to see a truck not hacked apart every now and then (I just cut my front bumper valence and my entire dash is on my garage floor currently.) What does draw my attention however is how you approach those of us who have found improvements or modifications that work. There is a wealth of knowledge in these forums... Master mechanics,
/Technicians, fabricators, engineers, software designers, race/professional off road drivers etc etc... I hardly doubt the combined consensus is that of a 17 year old driving his uncle's Nissan.

Seems pretty dismissive and a piss-poor attitude TO dismiss that young kid who may have a talent for vehicles who all he had was his uncle's Nissan. He could very well be the next CEO or lead engineer for TRD...

You say it's objectively the best mid size truck, yet that statement in itself is full of subjective thoughts.

I didn't want to detail your build thread here, but damn man... Hop off the high horse and roll on the dirt with the rest of us.