Ole Red - 1999 Toyota Tacoma Xtra Cab 2.7L 3RZ-FE 4x4 SR5 All Manual Build

Yes, LCE header, ProFlow Exhaust, and California smog legal catalytic converter. All of it purchased at one time from LCE. LCE uses/ carries magnaflow muffler in their ProFlow kit and they carry magnaflow catalytic converters. Converter was around $275 including shipping. It will depend on where you live.

 

I was going to ask. When I put the new studs back in, what should i put on them to keep them snug but able to remove again if absolutely necessary. I hope to never have to take these out again but.... I am knocking on wood. Never say never. What is the slippery silver stuff you speak of?

 

Probably refereeing to anti-seize

 

10:4, got it. Used it before on spark plugs. Its been a little while.

 

Yeah stuff stinks like rotten shit

 

Blow/clean out the threaded holes in the head as best you can, then a tiny swipe of Never Seize on the threads(only!) of the new stud. Run it down into the head by finger tightening, and then once it bottoms out a final snug down with the E-torx socket. Done. Install other parts. It should remove really nice if needed,,no matter the hard miles put on it. If you don't take precautions, it will probably back out of the head, if and when you have to remove the locknuts at any time. Reinstall as posted. If you want to use a OEM torque value on the studs,,you can, but it's a bit pointless. Never even looked for one so I cant tell you what that is.

Some guys use loctite on those studs. I learned my lesson with high heat exhaust studs years ago.

As your NEW locknuts get drove on, they try to turn that stud down into the threaded hole with a even more tightening force,,so your final snug down with the E-torx is just that,,,just snug them down then install the rest of your stuff. The studs will get twisted in a bit tighter during final assembly,,you can count on that.

Basically the way I see it is the small E-torx head on the end of that stud is a hold point, to be able to hold the end of the stud to remove the locknut with a hand wrench without twisting the stud out of the head again,,so that style of stud head is pretty light duty in a sense because it is small. Treat it as such when you are removing or installing,,,please.

Some guys just double nut them when removing them, kinda like what Speedy posted, to save that E-torx head from damage for a re-use when working on a customers vehicle(or your own).

 

Once again, thank you, thank you... All good info. I've had a few obligations this week but am planning to crack into this thing as soon as I get done making my wife a coffee table... Priorities.

 

any updates on your exhaust install?

 

The coffee table will be done tonight. However, I cleaned the truck and engine bay thoroughly this weekend. I have little valve cover leak and decided I will change out the gasket while I have everything pulled apart. I wanted to get things as clean as I can before so I can determine that my work is effective in solving the slight valve cover leak.

Note: Marvels Mystery Oil will clean out your engine quite effectively. It will get in all the cracks and crannies even to a fault. About 5 years ago, I decided to clean out the engine by doing the Marvel recommended clean out by putting in all but the last quart of oil in the truck and the last quart was all marvels. I ran it as recommended to the next oil change. It did clean out the engine and it did seem to run a little smoother BUTTT... it seeped through the valve cover gasket. Maybe I put too much, maybe I already had a small valve cover gasket leak and it just exposed it.. not sure. But, I have only used conventional oil since then and I think I have more or less "clogged" it back up to some degree. From what I can tell, I don't think I have any new oil leakage, just residual that I never cleaned off.

I would reserve Marvels for short term use (50 miles or less) before a due oil change or for older engines with a lot of build up. It was a huge help in restoring a 1965 Ford F100 a few years ago. I don't think I will run Marvels for a complete oil change cycle, I rather not run risk of having to change another gasket and or cleaning the leakage. Please "use responsibly" and remember "a little goes a long way".

http://www.marvelmysteryoil.com/index.php/site/mmo/

 

It's a glorified ATF in a solvent solution,,so be careful with it as you found. It's great stuff,,when used properly.

Nothing wrong or difficult about valve cover service. If you feel confident in finding your info you need,,go for it. Lots of folks on here with such threads that have done that,,and also had to redo it due to scrimping there money at the time or parts unavailable. Do all you can now,,because it usually cost more to come back in and build some more.

That being said, don't stretch your resources too thin,,as having to much torn apart at one time. If you feel good about that then go for it,,just remember your sequences of assembly for exhaust, and valve cover. Not to difficult under that hood as your finding out, much easier than other rigs I have owned.

 

What @Mod said... Also torque the valve cover bolts in a cross sequence to 3.5 ft lbs. Weird torque spec but mine hasn't leaked since I redid it so I guess it is right. When you do the valve cover gasket it is a great time to replace the little gaskets on the valve cover bolts and the spark plug tube gaskets.

 

Good info.

I'm thinking about doing my valve cover and wires. I might get this off amazon.

 

Yep, it's a bit more to keep track of but I think it will have to be a top down operation.

I did get the gaskets around the spark plugs too and I hope the gaskets for the bolts are in the package. Felpro brand.

 

I got the intake out of the way and got the heat shield off pretty easily.




The hardest part of getting the rest of the exhaust out was manipulating the rubber hangers on the muffler and end of the tailpipe. There was a bracket between the header and the catalytic converter that is mounted on the trans case that was a little pain but the impact got the last one of the two bolts loose. Sawzall helped me get it broken down into smaller more manageable pieces so I could fish it all out. I cut between the header and cat, cat and muffler, and between the muffler and end of tailpipe where it goes up and over the rear axle. I still need to get the bracket off of the pipe from the header so I can use for reinstall. I will also need to get my O2 sensors off to put in the new.



The cast iron manifold was worse than I thought. It was cracked all the way around and I am sure if I drop it hard enough, it would break in two. I must admit I was afraid it was going to break while trying to get the mounting nuts/ bolts off. By far the most difficult and "scariest" part of the process was trying to get the mounting studs/ nuts off to be able to get the header out. There are a total of 6 studs that hold it on. 3 of the nuts came off and 3 of the nuts and studs came out. 2 nuts came off with slightly longer than average ratchet, 1 nut came off with impact, the last 3 nuts/ studs came out by heating with propane torch and a cheater bar. I am very thankful they did not strip/ round off. If you're not careful, it will. I still need to "double nut method" the 3 studs that are left in there.


I went ahead and pulled the valve cover while things are a mess. I will clean up, paint, put in new gaskets, and reinstall. I plan to clean up all the old leakage as well. I was surprised how old and hard the old gaskets had gotten, especially the ones around the spark plugs. The rubber in the screw washers was GONE, which I attribute to the leakage. They were loose because of it. It looks like they had been over tightened at one point and smashed.



Late night with a friend helping.

 

I also have an OME kit for sale if anyone is interested... https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/old-man-emu-ome-lift-kit.414846/#post-11770427

 

Your sensors look pretty nasty. My cat was cut right behind the front sensor. I had to lay a air dremel bit on the sensor flange weld just to get a muffler clamp to stop there and clamp down on the bypass pipe end. Good luck with those,,hope they come off of there like they should.

If crap breaks,,it was meant to be.

Your 4 legged shop towel is waiting patiently for a ride. Lost my last in 2011. Need to find a smart choco lab once again.

 

I'll probably just get new oxygen sensors and be done with it. It would suck to have one go out in a few months or so... I know the front calls for a

$51 Denso 234-4162 Oxygen Sensor with 4-Wire 10.5” Harness for Non-California, Non-4WD Lexus/Toyota

Denso 234-4162 but is the rear O2 sensor the same? It wouldn't make sense if they were different.

Any suggestions on clean up of old oil leakage from valve cover?

I like "4 legged shop towel". That sums it up. She is always anxious for a run. GSP's got to run.

 

Bump

 

THX

 

will you post a video clip of the new exhaust once installed?