Oil filter leak

I hate that the old expression of "if you want something done right, do it yourself" keeps proving to be accurate. I had the oil & filter changed last week at one of the quick change places. This was the second time I went there and I wasn't confident they actually changed the filter the first time as they were simply too quick from beginning to end. This time I got out of the truck and walked around front to watch the tech in the pit change the filter and it took much longer than my first experience. At that point, I was considering going back to doing it myself altho I dislike what it takes on these trucks.

Anyway, I took a two hour trip across the state and halfway there, my low oil warning came on! I got off the interstate and looked underneath and there was oil everywhere! I was truly pissed but couldn't do anything about it at that point other than adding two quarts of oil and continue my trip. Before heading back, I bought two more quarts which I also had to add by the time I got home.

So today I've dropped the skid plate, wiped the filter housing clean and cranked the engine up to see exactly where the oil is coming from. It quickly began streaming down one side of the housing. The filter drain plug was in tight and as I removed the filter, it was obvious it was in tight as well. I find no damage to the oil ring so am at a loss as to where the oil leak is. I don't see any gasket on the flange of the housing where it seats to the housing and wonder if that's correct?

Any ideas?

 

If the plastic is not cracked, then the o-ring is either missing, damaged, or in the wrong location.

 

This^^

 

Rubber/silicone changes with age. Maybe the tech moved the gasket accidentally because it is easily moved?

 

It's an aluminum housing and the O ring is in the correct location - hence my puzzlement. It shouldn't be leaking! But I just noticed that pictures of housings show a perforated tube in the center - mine does not. Is that a mid-generation change. I also noticed that the oil drain doesn't drain any oil - the bottom of the inside of the housing appears to have a flat washer.

 

I may be assuming too much but it was my assumption that the o-ring is changed with the filter. Perhaps mine is substandard owing to where the job was done. The filter certainly looks cheap.

 

Is the o-ring flat? It needs to be round and pliable

 

If you use the wrong tool to remove that filter housing, good chance you can crack it.

 

If you're missing the center tube, then you're most likely not filtering any oil. If you have an aftermarket housing, sometimes the tubes can be removed. Either way, if you dont have the spring loaded bypass valve in the bottom then you're oil filter isn't doing anything. Go buy an OEM housing and new oil filter and problems will be solved.

 

Assumptions do not help. Verify the filter housing with a controlled test submersed in fluid (seems a good test), replace with Toyota brand if broken.

Get 2 new gaskets from Toyota directly for future oil changes you will do yourself.

Cheaper than an engine rebuild.

 

I suspect the tech at the oil change place removed it along with the old filter. But its function is to keep the filter from collapsing under pressure, has nothing to do with the filtering. The bypass valve is still in place.

 

5-minute oil change - you get what you pay for.

Find a good mechanic near you who knows what they are doing. Get to know 'em. Bring 'em some cookies or something.

 

I understand, but the OEM perf tubes are not removable, so if it's missing from an OEM housing you're in trouble. Dorman and other aftermarket housings come with several length tubes. That must be what you have. Some people have had quick lubes throw the entire perforated tube, spring, bypass assembly away and set a filter loosely in the housing. At least you don't have that...

Dorman Housing:

 

I'm far more skilled then you're assuming, just at an age where I don't want to do every mundane task myself.

 

time to reconsider

 

The OEM perf tube is removable… there’s a tab or 2 to bend out of the way, twist it, and it comes right out. But, they aren’t held in all that strong with those tabs, so if a walmart or jiffy lube moron pulls on the filter too hard while twisting a little bit, the whole thing can come out. I suspect that’s what happened, and it wasn’t noticed, so they just threw a new paper filter loosely in there and half-assedly threaded it back in, not tight enough to make a seal. I noticed if you don’t put a liberal amount of oil on that big o-ring, the filter can get pretty tight with friction way before it’s screwed in all the way (like 2-3 turns shy of tight). I can see a rando $14/hr. lube “tech” putting a dry o-ring on and thinking it was tight when it still had a long way to go.

 

Considering the cost/inconvenience of an engine rebuild ... time to re-think that position.

 

Oh absolutely! Am I to understand that the TRD skid plates have an access panel? Part of my dislike of this job is having to remove that each time. I can deal with canister oil filters, dealt with one on my 65 Vette for years.

 

TRD Pro plate has an access for both drain plug and filter. RCI front plate has both as well. Not sure about other brands. People tell me the only time I NEED to remove the RCI front skid is to service the front differential.

 

I didn't install the Aluminum housing unit but I did put the o-ring where it was located on the OEM Plastic--right above that solid area.