OEM LCA Camber (CAM) Alignment Bolts Removal (Frozen/Rusted), Best methods?

Trying to identify the best/fastest method for removing frozen LCA Camber Alignment Bolts. I've looked at mine and assume they will be frozen and rusted in, so I will have a full set of spare CAM alignment bolts to replace them once they hopefully are removed. What I don't want is needing to resort to cutting them (and the LCA bushings) out with the saw-zaw. LCA bushings are for a different day, once new CAM bolts are in .I've done ton's of searches and spent well over a few hours both here, other forums, google searches on Tacoma/FJ/4R, youtube videos, etc to find easiest, cheapest and fastest way.

From my searches, it seems there are about three good combination methods:

1. Heat the nuts and surrounding area with a torch, let stand for a bit, apply more heat, then use an impact gun to loosen/remove the nut. Then remove the bolt (air-hammer or pin-punch hammer or bolt-press if needed).
2. Partially Loosen the nuts (if possible), then use an air-hammer to push the bolt through (breaking it free from the bushing), then remove the nut. Then remove the bolt (air-hammer or pin-punch hammer if needed).
3. If the nuts won't budge, cut the nut off with an air-hammer chisel. Then remove the cam-washer, and air-hammer or pin-punch the bolt through.

I also read that putting some suspension load on the LCA with the floor jack might take some of the load off the bolts while trying to remove (since they are supposed to be torqued with the wheels on the ground). If anyone has any other tips, again, it would be appreciated.

 

AeroKroil (or a 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone in a spray bottle) . Soak everything once a day for a week straight before even bothering touching the cam bolts.

 

Lots of sawzall blades.

 

Using the sawzall mehtod will build character.

 

Damn this is depressing to read as a guy who just dropped his truck off for an alignment, I soaked the bolts with free all for 4 days. Hopefully they bust loose lol.

Nevermind, alignment guy called me told me caster was 3.3/3.6
0 or .1 camber and toe each side. Good testimonial for jba uca’s

 

Thanks! That's kind of some of the additional info I haven't been able to find - like treating/soaking everything well in advance with the right penetrating oil.

I've had 4 quarts of old Mobil1 MerconV ATF just sitting in the same place for at least 5 years - finally an excuse to use some of it/discard it - I'll give that a shot as well.

 

I sprayed mine with the acetone/ ATF mixture twice a week for a couple months to no effect. Mine were fucked. I bought LCAs with good bushings and chucked the old ones.

 

That's also in consideration, but I'll check on how bad my bolts are first. I'm thinking of getting a set of those Menvotech LCA's - use those while I rebuild my LCA's with new bushings and ball-joints (and refinish). Then re-install my OEM LCAs.

I'm planning on doing my own alignments, so the number of times touching the suspension doesn't matter especially once the bolts are replaced.

 

My bushings wouldn't come out in a press

 

Use only OEM hardware

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...part-numbers-and-bushing-part-numbers.403162/

 

Gasoline soak for about a week, then press them...problem is you need your ride though, not everyone has another car.

 

Damn. I could've recouped a little $

 

Mine were totally seized up. So much that one of the sleeves sheared. I went with new moog lowers which arent terribly expensive and oem hardware. Didn't want to do the job twice.

 

Finally got my front coilovers on. First off thanks for the comments on the Aerokroil and 50/50 acetone atf mix. That was a massive assist. I basically went out 2-3 times per week and sprayed kroil on the threads. Sprayed everything really well with the splash guard off the night before.

Just some comments which might help others. Everything broke loose easily by hand, but I did have the ‘crunchies’ on both front bolts when adjusting. On the right hand side, I broke the front E-cam away from the sleeve (it’s one piece) after getting a little aggressive, but it still went back into place...thank god the OEM hardware has those little tab indents, just eye them up and carry on if the E-cam breaks. The bolt came out and still looked clean/reusable. It’s actually a really good design since they don’t need to replace if they break (you can still adjust with the rear 19mm box wrench, the rear is keyed to the sleeve, so make sure to put witness marks on all 8 cams). If you get aggressive, make sure to have your 19mm box on the other side to assist your 22mm breaker bar, and turn them together in the same direction. The left hand side had a seized cam in the front, but I was able to work it loose just enough to drop the LCA and work in the coilover. The rear hardware both sides was great and didn’t have any movement problems. Having spare OEM LCA hardware certainly helps you know how the parts go together and what turns and what doesn’t, what’s keyed and what isn’t keyed.

My witness marks all lined up again without problems and was good enough to avoid wearing. No issues with toe according to my numbers and my 20 minute country road drive.

The OEM hardware refresh, and Whiteline bushings are a different project for a different day. That’s enough for now, and it’s time for Overwatch.

 

For anyone that hasn't done this, here is a good youtube video detailing the process of cutting them out.
https://youtu.be/x7MgsqHt9gw

 

lol 2yrs later

 

True, but at least it gives someone else who might be having the same problem a nice detailed guide.

 

Depending on the sawzall blades OP chose to use, might still be cutting. Lol.

 

Damn, the rust nannies would have a fit if they saw that haha.

Good overview of the process though. Ill have to save that for when I inevitably have to do this

 

I will be doing mine as soon as my dirt king lca's come in.