Noob question about load rating vs puncture resistance

I just bought a lightly used immaculate 2017 TRD offroad double cab and I love it. I upgraded from a 2011 5 lug access cab, so offroad tires were never something i looked at. I do about 50/50 offroad/highway in my truck, and i think i want to get Nitto Ridge Grapplers. My boss is a truck guy and said to get the 10 ply Not the “shitty 4 ply” which after reading up on them i assume is the e rated ones. If im not towing anything, will the non e-rated tires be as capable/puncture resistant as the e rated ones?

265/75R16 116T Specifically is the one im looking at. Its cheaper and lighter, so if it will be just as strong offroad id rather go with it.

thanks in advance for any helpful replies!

 

Cooper has a video showing the different load ranges, puncture test.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=9Kz8mmLkeks

 

The Nittos are good tires, I'd give the 116T a try.

 

Ply "rating" has nothing to do with actual number of plies anymore. A "10 ply" tire still only has 4 or 5 plies, but they are built in a way that they function as well as the older style 10 ply.

 

3 ply rated sidewalls....

ST Maxx & KO2's only two ?

Correct me if wrong....

 

Correct no more "10 ply" Tires only "10 ply Rated Tires". Those are old Bias ply tire terms that somehow stuck. Most tires currently only have 2 or 3 plys.

ST Maxx & KOs's both have 3plys

To confuse things even more, not all plys are created equal, you could have a tire with 3 low tensil strength plys be weaker than a tire w 2 high tensil strength plys.

 

This video should be pinned in the tire section. quick to the point and informative.

 

What type of offroading are you doing? If you are going to air down your tires lower I would recomend a 3ply tire if you are just on gravel, dirt, and mud than a 2 ply would be just fine.

 

You don't need "E" rated tires for the load carrying, but they are a much tougher tire that will hold up better in even light duty off road driving. I haven't done any hardcore off road driving since the 1970's, but drive roughly 1000 miles/year on either forest service gravel type roads or rough farm roads. I've damaged enough of the "P" series tires to the point they couldn't be repaired over the years that I will no longer use them. The "E" rated tires cost a little more initially, but it still comes out cheaper than buying 4 "P" series tires and having to start replacing them before they wear out.

Once you get the air pressure figured out "E" rated tires ride just fine even on a Tacoma and if you avoid really wide tires with aggressive mud tread fuel mileage doesn't take a huge hit.

While the old 4, 6, 8, and 10 ply construction no longer applies a modern "P" series tire compares to the old 4 ply, "C's" compare to the old 6 ply, "D" compares to 8 ply and "E" compares to 10 ply tires. The actual number of plies isn't 4, 6, 8, or 10 anymore.

Lots of guys try to compromise with "C" or "D" rated tires. They are just spending more money and not getting the advantages of a tougher tire. When it comes to load rating a "D" rated tire will carry the same amount of weight as a "P" tire, a "C" rated tire less.

 

235/85 tires are almost always E rated and with the narrow profile your mpg doesn't really suffer.