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No start after engine swap 3.4l 99 Tacoma

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by the_white_shadow, Mar 14, 2020.

  1. Mar 14, 2020 at 10:24 AM
    #1
    the_white_shadow

    the_white_shadow [OP] Well-Known Member

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    back story:

    Bought a 99 taco with a dead engine. It’s a 3.4l 5-speed 4wd

    Swapped in a running 3.4 from a 99 4runner 2wd auto. Ran fine before I pulled it.

    Swapped the taco 5-speed harness onto the 4runner engine. Used everything from the 4runner. All sensors, injectors, coils, etc.

    Installed a new tank in the taco because it was rusty. New pump also installed.

    Removed the factory gulf states alarm shit.

    Checked another good ecu and still no spark.

    All fuses are good. Changed relays with one out of the 4runner. No change.

    Pulled the exhaust to check for plugged cat. No change.

    Went over all connections. Nothing loose or cut.

    Tried another maf. No change.

    Fuel is confirmed at the rail by pulling return line.

    New fuel filter.

    I’m lost. Any suggestions? Engine ran great before pulled. I did some gasket changes. (Valve covers, rear main seal, intake).

    The 4runner had a supercharger installed so I swapped out the bad taco engines intake and throttle body onto the 4runner engine.

    Thoughts????
     
  2. Mar 14, 2020 at 10:29 AM
    #2
    VirusCage

    VirusCage Well in the secondary immune response

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    Fuel---okay
    Spark?
    Grounds?
    Cranking?
    Stater engaging?
     
  3. Mar 14, 2020 at 10:55 AM
    #3
    the_white_shadow

    the_white_shadow [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Checked codes. P1300 and P0100
    Igniter and maf.

    These are both connectors I cut and repinned or spliced. Rats were u see the hood of the taco.

    Pulled the battery negative and trying to reset the ecu now.
     
  4. Mar 14, 2020 at 10:55 AM
    #4
    the_white_shadow

    the_white_shadow [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Fuel is good
    Grounds are good. Firewall intake and battery.
    Cranks fine.
    Just won’t get me any spark.
     
  5. Mar 14, 2020 at 11:14 AM
    #5
    cruxofthebisquit

    cruxofthebisquit Well-Known Member

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    With no spark you're just going to need a fine tooth comb. If the sensor plugged up, it should work.
    Now, it was a dead engine before, why?
     
  6. Mar 14, 2020 at 11:18 AM
    #6
    the_white_shadow

    the_white_shadow [OP] Well-Known Member

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    No clue. Bought it like that. Sat for 12 years then I picked it up. It was locked up solid.
     
  7. Mar 14, 2020 at 11:20 AM
    #7
    cruxofthebisquit

    cruxofthebisquit Well-Known Member

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    I have a feeling you're going to have to find out what killed it as it may have been electrical.
     
  8. Mar 14, 2020 at 11:29 AM
    #8
    the_white_shadow

    the_white_shadow [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Electrical wouldn’t cause it to lock itself up. Poor maintenance timing belt etc would.

    Erasing the codes and pulling the battery cable for 10 mins cleared the p1300 code. Even with it cranking it doesn’t come back. Only one now is the maf code.
     
  9. Mar 14, 2020 at 11:43 AM
    #9
    cruxofthebisquit

    cruxofthebisquit Well-Known Member

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    Unless it's windowed somewhere really the only reason it would be locked up is if it sat with the hood open and access to water in the engine.
    A timing belt won't do it. They break and nothing is harmed. Maybe ran it out of oil? Who knows.

    Likely it died, (maybe throttle body) some one opened the engine, got it full of water and it rusted stuck.

    Or maybe it's still adjusting itself. There's an igniter on the passenger side I think....that gives rare problems.

    Just gonna have to check where you got power in but not out.
    I guess you have sprayed the intake to see if you can get a cough?
     
  10. Mar 14, 2020 at 1:25 PM
    #10
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    You might want to keep looking for more rodent chewed wires.

    You always need to remember it is the complete circuit not just the sensor !!

    Your going to need both EWD`s for both vehicles some of the plugs while the same are pinned different

    You said you put the manual engine Harness with all the 4 runner sensors and electronics your problem is there some place unless that was a typo
     
  11. Mar 14, 2020 at 1:30 PM
    #11
    cruxofthebisquit

    cruxofthebisquit Well-Known Member

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    Oh well. Blows my theory of it then. That's not good practice.
     
  12. Mar 14, 2020 at 2:00 PM
    #12
    the_white_shadow

    the_white_shadow [OP] Well-Known Member

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    It will run for a sec with starts my fluid sprayed into the intake.

    I’ve checked every inch of wiring under the hood and found no more evidence of mice.


    Yes I am using the taco manual harness on the 4runner engine using the 4runner sensors and injectors.

    I am using the taco harness in the taco igniter. No spark. Swapped in the 4runner igniter because it has the same part number and no spark.

    Taco harness in the taco maf.

    Do I need to swap cam position sensors and all of that from the Tacoma? The manual harness plugged right in so I assumed they were the same. I guess not.
     
  13. Mar 14, 2020 at 2:08 PM
    #13
    the_white_shadow

    the_white_shadow [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Well RockAuto shows the crankshaft position sensor to have the same part number. Wiring should be the same there.
     
  14. Mar 14, 2020 at 2:09 PM
    #14
    the_white_shadow

    the_white_shadow [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Camshaft position sensor also the same. What else could be different that would cause it not to run?
     
  15. Mar 14, 2020 at 2:21 PM
    #15
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    You have done a swap unless you get real lucky your going to need to go wire by wire to figure out just what is wrong

    Best of luck
     
  16. Mar 14, 2020 at 4:42 PM
    #16
    cruxofthebisquit

    cruxofthebisquit Well-Known Member

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    Then it has SOME spark....can it run longer if you keep fogging it?
    If so, you have a fuel problem or a metering problem.

    I don't know why I'm palm reading the throttle body.

    "I see junkyards in your future"
     
  17. Mar 14, 2020 at 6:54 PM
    #17
    the_white_shadow

    the_white_shadow [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I’m using the taco TB right now. I have to check and see if the 4runner TB is the same. It will keep running if I keep fogging it. I pulled a plug and didn’t see any noticeable spark. No junkyard for me. I’ve been parting these out for years. Have all kinds of random shit.

    Side issue. The clutch start cancel button doesn’t work. Neither does the e-locker button.

    Also no CEL when the key is on. I’m guessing the bulb is bad because my code reader pulls the codes from the ecm.

    I hate wiring.
     
  18. Mar 15, 2020 at 3:55 AM
    #18
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    All it takes is one bent pin or corroded pin .

    In most cases the ECM will shut the fuel off if it does not see one of several sensors .

    The fact you hate electrical work will be interesting

    Every thing in the harness must match the proper pins on the ECM when it does not your seeing what happens
     
  19. Mar 15, 2020 at 6:02 AM
    #19
    the_white_shadow

    the_white_shadow [OP] Well-Known Member

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    That’s why I swapped over the Tacoma manual harness. I’m not trying to use the 4runner engine harness with the taco manual ecm. All sensors are the same between both engines so I left them alone on the good engine. I’m getting fuel when cranking so the ecm isn’t shutting that down.
     
  20. Mar 15, 2020 at 10:12 PM
    #20
    Glamisman

    Glamisman Well-Known Member

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    If there is no RPM signal from the crank position sensor the PCM will not send the signal to the circuit opening relay to close it to turn the fuel pump on. I do not know if the 4Runner crank position sensor is compatible. I would start there. Without a scope I do not know of any way to check to see if there is a signal.
     

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