New truck, when to do the first wax?

Picking up my first new vehicle ever tomorrow. A 2020 SR5 4x4. Since it just came in from the factory this week how long should I wait to wax it?

What about clay bar, is the even needed yet? I have a collection of product already to clean vehicle's. Anything I should not use on new paint?

 

Waxed mine twice since February. I hear Toyota paint is kinda finicky. Taking no chances In .Arizona sun.

 

Definitely clay bar immediately. Then apply a premium wax. It will have contaminates on it from shipping. DO NOT let the dealer run it though their car wash with brushes! Toyota paint is soft and it will scratch it. Congrats on the new truck.

 

I have Mother's synthetic wax on hand. Good enough?

No idea if they have a wash like that or not. Hopefully it's touchless or high pressure wand. I'm getting Cement so hopefully it's more forgiving then black and other dark colors.

 

Usually you don't want to apply wax/sealant/coating to a new paint job, usually 1-3 months depending on the process. Would think a vehicle even from factory has likely already spent more than enough time to cure a paint job.

As for clay, you only clay paint that needs it. To determine if needed wash and dry it, should be many videos and many methods for going about this safely this is as or more important than applying a wax. Use a slim baggy or thin glove and move your hand over the paint if it feels smooth there aren't many contaminants, it's hard to tell on just bare skin. Something brand new likely doesn't need clay all over. Also note that when you clay the paint, you ARE causing micro scratches as it isn't a completely safe process no matter the clay medium synthetic or traditional. General detailing recommendation is to NOT clay unless you plan on polishing which will easily remove such marring.

If you're just applying a spray wax, I wouldn't worry about claying for now. If you're persistent on keeping it detailed than you can do as needed down the line.

 

Right away, no need to wait like years ago. I would do a good decon wash, paint correction (yes your new truck will need one) and then a good coating, wax is old school, so many better options out there, I'd consider a DIY ceramic.

 

Thanks though that's more like what I thought. I will feel the paint and see I've heard of people only claying the roof and hood on newer cars and the rest feeling ok.
I've not used the spray on wax other than quick detailers in the past. I might try that. I'm sure I will be washing with a MIT and 2 buckets this weekend.
I plan to Scotch guard the cloth seats until I get seat covers too.

 

There are too many variables when it comes to contaminants. Eventually you're definitely picking them up on the lower portions of the car. Even on the hood and roof too when driving. Hatchbacks and SUVs, vans get filthiest on the rear where everything swirls behind you in the rain. Then there are some environments where shit falls from the surrounding area or someone spraying something in a parking lot. Claying shouldn't be a scheduled process, unless it's parked somewhere with a consistent predictable pattern.

Mitt and 2 bucket is a good start, or multiple mitts and one bucket, whatever works for you. Griots PFM for drying, comes in various sizes. The 16x16" is great, two of them should dry just about any size vehicle.

As for paint protection, my advice is Gyeon CanCoat or Carpro Cquartz Lite. Both easy to use, CanCoat being easier/quicker, Cquartz Lite being more durable.

 

The can coat product looks like something I can deal with.

 

If it really is fresh from the factory, I'd wait 1-2 months before doing anything to paint to make sure it's fully cured. And as stated above, I'd only clay bar the paint if it's needed, and there's a lot of videos on You Tube that demostrate how to use a baggie to see if you need to clay bar the paint. Don't do it because you think it's something you should do. A clay bar can introduce some micro scratching that can only be removed by polishing.

 

Old school thinking from 20 years ago, current vehicles are cured and can be clayed/waxed upon delivery and honestly should. Almost every new car will have contaminants and imperfections requiring correction prior to coating.

 

I'd wax it once I got it home, no bar clay yet.

 

This is it

 

Nice, good luck with it OP

 

I love the feel of the paint after I clay barred my 65 Galaxie once a year but doing it every year for 20 years it has my paint starting to get thin in some areas and I stopped using it. I just use a good quality wax once a year or as needed on all of my cars. Clay bar is Ok when the paint has oxidized but use wax otherwise. On a street car I think it is overkill. I have been building and showing my cars since the late 80s and they are all super clean. I don't recommend buffing either except when actually needed. Your just wearing down the paint. Todays paint is thin anyways.
Don't laugh but I only use water to wash my cars with no soap and dry immediately with soft bath towels. I don't have to wax the build up off the paint as often. Also if you have a garage use it for your truck and not a bunch of junk like I see in so many homes. Keeping your truck out of the elements also does the paint a lot of good.
I used to work in a body shop and also detailed cars for a couple years when I got out of high school.

 

That's a matter of opinion. Every time I've had any autobody work done I've been told to wait 30-45 days before applying any type of coating to the paint so it can completely offgas. I'm not saying new cars don't need correction and protection, I'm just saying I'll be waiting a waiting a while before I attack a brand new paint job. You are certainly welcome to have your own opinons and do as you please.

 

Most reputable detailers and detailing websites will argue different my dude. And have coated many of my new trucks over the years, no issues, and all of them had contamination / need for correction. Why would you wait 45 days especially on a DD to protect it, makes very little sense (UV exposure, groad grime, bird poop, etc.), the whole point of the waiting old school advice was allowing paint to cure properly which was true back in the day, but not the case anymore for mass production vehicles, there is absolutely no reason or harm in addressing imperfections and coating a new vehicle. The reason you hear that from an autobody shop is their cure process is not the same as the factory and yes requires time to properly harden, a new vehicle from the factory does not. Sure if you are waxing or doing a quick seal, skip the clay or paint correction if you want, but if you are gonna coat it and lock in the condition of the paint then you absolutely need to address it and clay/correct. And in today's world of current detailing products wax and sealant are subpar, no reason not to ceramic/nano coat with even a DIY, better protection, etc.

 

Like I said, you are certainly welcome to have your own opinons and do as you please. I will do that as well.

 

Wow I really stirred the pot with this post.
I decided after going and looking at reviews and how to apply videos on products recommended above in going to try Geyon Cancoat. The only thing is I didn't order I needed the prep product they sell when I ordered it. I won't even have that until late next week. I'm going to just see how it looks with the mother's wax I have plenty of this weekend. Decide on to clay or not based on the feel of the paint.

The plan is to have the coating on before winter. This truck is going to me parked outside at home. I have a private parking area but no garage.

When you still the pot do you go clockwise or counter clockwise? Asking for a friend.

 

And by all means. But pointing out there is no need to wait for the paint to cure on a new vehicle today. Just trying to help op best protect his new truck based on facts not opinions or old school mentalities.