New to me 2005 DB Cab and I have no clue how to detail it...or work on scratches...

I just bought the truck and I washed it and did a pretty awful wax job I think I can fix the wax problem but I do have some general questions....

I bought some of the 5-7$ scratch remover and it appears to do nothing...any suggesting for scratches under the door handles, small tail gate or door scratches?

Any suggestions for a spot smaller than a dime (much smaller) where the paint is completely gone and is starting to rust? It is on the door. Would a paint pen work?

Best way to get the black trim around the back window to not have water spots? I tried back to black twice and it didn't appear to do much.

I used a cleaner wax from Maguire if you have better wax suggestions i'd be open to those as well.

I am really looking for info about scratches both shallow and deep.

Thanks guys!

 

You may already know this, but this is what I commonly hear: if you can feel a scratch with your fingernail, you're probably not gonna be able to remove it by hand. Do you have a DA (dual action/random orbital polisher)? If you're serious about do-it-yourself paint repair work, I'd invest in one. They're about $125 I think (porter cable

$119 7424xp PORTER-CABLE Car Polisher and Buffer, 6", Orbital, Variable Speed (7424XP)

7424xp is the go-to for a lot of detailing hobbyists). You'll also need pads.

That said, many people are happy with Meguires products (and they're inexpensive and easy to find). Numbered from most to least abrasive... You might try Meg's ScratchX for deeper scratches (#1). Ultimate compound (#2) is also a popular product followed by Ultimate Polish (#3). You want to try the least abrasive product first to accomplish your goals. If one doesn't fix the paint, try a more abrasive product. After compounding and polishing, use Megs Ultimate Liquid Wax (#4). It is a paint sealer (synthetic wax), it will give you some good paint protection, and it does NOT stain trim.

From the sound of it, I'm doubtful you'll be able to do much with the deeper scratches by hand. But you may be able to do well under the door handles with compound, then polish. The more abrasive the product, it might then require polishing after.

Edit: UC is more abrasive than ScratchX. ScratchX is more abrasive than UP.

 

fyi- I just did my whole truck by hand with Meguires Ultimate Polish. It didn't remove any scratches or swirls whatsoever. So, eliminate that option entirely.

If it were my truck, based on your description, I'd hit it with a DA and ScratchX on all the deeper scratches (the scratch remover you already bought might suffice if you used a DA). Then do the entire truck with ultimate compound, followed by ultimate polish (spending a little more time with the compound on the trouble areas). Who knows, maybe the compound is all you need and you can skip the harsher ScratchX. Lots of videos out there on how to use the products (Move the DA left to right, top to bottom, in slow overlapping strokes, wipe with microfiber, repeat as necessary). Test on inconspicuous areas first.

Hate to say it, but I don't think you'll get very far on any of that by hand (maybe just under the door handles). Unless you spend hours and hours working on it.

 

I'd be looking at paint sealants instead of waxes. Synthetic wax (paint sealant) technology has come a long way in the last 10 years. Megs Ultimate Liquid Wax (100% synthetic wax) is awesome stuff, although you should clay the vehicle before application. Megs clay kit is $20. You just Spray the paint with lube (comes in the kit), then rub the clay bar back and forth and over and across the surface. When you see that the clay is dirty, fold the clay over on itself a couple times, flatten it, and repeat on the next panel. It removes years worth of bonded/embedded contaminants that you can't even see. But you'll see it on the clay when you're done! If you drop the clay- STOP, throw it away, and use a different piece. One stray piece of sand/grit caught in the clay will ruin your day. It's important to prep the surface before applying sealant (if you want the sealant to adhere at its maximum).

Honestly, it's all just how OCD you wanna be. A quick wash and simple cleaner wax job is great, too, and more than most people will ever do. Just throwing the info out there for ya. Any questions, I'm happy to help if I can. Not a pro here, I just like playing with my truck and talking detailing.

 

Sorry to sound stupid but what is DA? And i assume by not doing it by hand you mean doing it with a drill? Any suggestions what to buy for that?

 

When you wax, how long do you let it sit before you start to take it off? I have heard 30 seconds all the way to an hour....

 

Depends on the product. For Meg's ultimate liquid, you can apply thinly to a panel, wait 3-5 minutes and then wipe it off. Or do the whole truck first. Either way.

With traditional waxes you want to let them "flash" (haze), then remove. Do the "swipe" test. If you swipe with your finger and it comes off cleanly, you may remove the wax by buffing it off. If it's smears, it's not quite ready for removal. Basically, follow directions on the product.

 

Not a drill. A DA is a power tool that has a head on it that moves in two directions (sort of like an electric sander, but maybe a little less "action" to it).