New clutch hard to engage

Hey how’s it I just replaced my clutch. With a ( Centerforce dual friction / pressure plate ) with a Centerforce TOB and LUK flywheel, after installation I bolted everything back and it’s hard to get it into gear doesn’t engage very well. And no I didn’t bleed my slave because I never messed system I just moved it aside. Would it maybe be I installed something wrong or the slave pipe is bent a little bit ? HELP Por fa vor

 

1) bleed your clutch anyway, even if you didn't open the line up. Sounds like a waste of time but I've had a similar issue changing a clutch without ever opening the line. Someone convinced me to bleed it and it worked. Make sure to bleed the slave as well by pushing the plunger allll the way in. While you're at it, flush all the old fluid out and get nice fresh fluid in the line since you're bleeding it anyway.

2) by "doesn't engage well" do you mean it doesn't fully disconnect the driveline? Are you sure the TOB, flywheel, and slave cylinder are all matched with each other? If any of the dimensions are off, the slave may not be pushing the TOB out far enough to fully disengage the pressure plate. May need some shims, longer arm on the slave, or different TOB carrier.

3) something could be backwards, not seated, or not aligned right. make sure the fork is properly installed on both the pivot point and the TOB carrier.

4) Also try just pumping the crap out of the pedal, all the way down and all the way up. Sometimes it takes a while to fully fill the slave back up if it's been messed with

 

Okay thanks I’ll try all my options out before I have to drop the transmission again ! And by doesn’t engage well I mean when I push in the clutch and get it into gear i have to use force it doesn’t go in smoothly when truck is turned on. BUT when truck is OFF it switches through gears easily.

 

Do you maybe need to adjust the pedal clutch rod to the master cylinder?

 

Yeah I tried that out but I can try again!

 

OKAY SO- after I adjusted it, it did seem to shift a little easier when the ignition turned ON but it’s still a little stiff or hard but better then before !! Any ideas or just needs to be broken in and used

 

It's an upgraded twin-plate clutch, it's gonna be a little harder to press in than the OEM one. But definitely keep looking into it if you're having any resistance shifting into gear. That means it's still slightly dragging the friction disc and spinning the input shaft, and it'll demolish your synchros real quick if you drive it like that. You shouldn't have to force it into gear at all.

Start it up and put it in 4lo, ebrake off, then put it in 1st gear while holding the clutch down. If it tries to pull the truck forward at all then it's not completely releasing. you can also just lift the rear wheels and do it in 2wd.

If you're still having problems, bleed it a couple more times and check everything over. I could be wrong but I think there's an inspection door on the bell housing, that'll let you peek in and make sure everything's seated right.

 

It *might* get better as it gets bedded in, but i'd keep a close eye on it. Good luck with it

 

Okay thanks yeah I’ll try that out ! See that’s the thing I have been doing so much research and there’s nothing ! Clutch pedal push’s in good, but just getting it into 1st gear reverse is a little stiff but when I drive it and shift gears it’s smooth. Thanks for replying appreciate it!

 

No problem.

1st and Reverse would be harder to get into while stopped, because that's when the largest speed difference is, between the stopped output shaft and spinning input shaft. It's the synchro's job to use friction/act as a kind of mini-clutch to match the speed their speeds up before engaging the gears so they don't grind. once they get close enough, the collar slips right into gear. That's why its smoother in 2nd, 3rd, etc because the speeds are already closer together.

If the clutch isnt releasing all the way while you shift into gear, it's dragging the friction discs (connected to the input shaft) along, making it super hard for the synchros to do their jobs. it'll do it if it can overcome the clutch dragging(not wanting to slow down), but it's a hell of a lot of extra wear. That's why you're not supposed to force it into gear, moving or stopped. just gently push it until it drops in, instead of mashing the synchros together unnecessarily


This might be because it's new and needs to wear in a bit, i'm not familiar with that clutch. just keep an eye on it, and it wouldn't be a bad idea to check/change the gear oil in a couple hundred miles either to see if there's a bunch of brass in it. But definitely keep checking it out/adjusting it as much as you can till there's no resistance.

 

Okay perfect thanks, yeah I’ll try and drive it I’ll change gear oil before I start driving it to notice if there’s brass. Because there’s probably brass from old clutch mahalos !

 

my slave seemed fully bled I never messed with it when doing my clutch but still bled it and didn’t have air bubbles just pressure from pumping, but when I adjusted my pedal height higher and pushrod even more it’s easier to get into gear ! I think that fixed it mahalos guys appreciate it

 

We are always glad to help where we can.

 

I have had the same Centerforce DualFriction clutch and the same problem last 4 years. I have not got rid off the dragging, it’s always been difficult to get 1st or reverse engaged, except if I have burned the clutch. After that it works fine a while. The clutch accumulator bypass didn’t help either. Yesterday this clutch started slipping even on 6th gear and full throttle... I have to buy new one and it’s not Centerforce.