Need help with wheel speed sensors

2012 trd sport v6

I ripped the wire out of the sensor plug and now My speedo stays at zero and I have no traction control. The scan tool says open or short in rear sensor both left and right side. Code c1407 and c1407 are showing.

I have not been able to find anywhere to purchase new wiring except Toyota who wants to sell me the entire wires from the computer back to both rear wheels.

i re soldered the wire back into place and that didn’t help- also tried replacing both rear sensors.

any Advice would be appreciated, thanks.

 

There is a harness that plugs into the truck above the rear axle and goes to each rear wheel speed sensor. Here is a part number for one of the harnesses. 89516-04060

DISCLAIMER: MAKE SURE YOU GET THE CORRECT PART FOR YOUR TRUCK!

Here is a very long thread that discusses the issue you're dealing with and how to diagnose it properly. If you want, you can jump ahead to post 55 and start reading from there.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/abs-brake-traction-control-lights-on.494620/


Key word for search— dingleberry

 

Thank you very much. I will read through. I appreciate the help.

 

I repaired the tears in the harness. I’m now getting proper voltage at the connector to each speed sensor.
So I replaced my two rear sensors and repairs the harness but I still have no speedo and same lights are on.


Is it a possibility that these wiring harnesses are not repairable even though I have voltage within range?

I can’t see both rear sensors I bought are faulty/ even though they are cheap.

any suggestions on how to proceed?

 

Check for codes and go from there.

First, connect terminal 4 and 13 of the OBD-II socket (under the dash in front of your left knee) with a jumper wire. (Those are the 4th from the left on the top and the fifth from the left on the bottom.)

Turn the ignition to on. You'll notice lots of flashing lights, but just pay attention to the ABS light. Normally, it should be rapidly and steadily flashing, twice per second. If it has stored a trouble code, it will instead be flashing a pattern that will coding a two-digit number. There may be more than one code being flashed out. It will just repeat the code over and over, so you have plenty of time to figure it out and write it (them) down.

NOW you can clear the codes. Just tap the brakes rapidly 8 or more times, about two taps per second. You don't have to jam on the brakes, just tap them enough to blink the brake lights. If you're successful, the ABS light should return to its normal fast blinking. Now remove the jumper wire, and finally turn off the key.

Now when you turn on the key, the ABS light should just do its normal light for three seconds and go off. If it comes back on, you still have a problem

key word for search-- dingleberry

 

I replaced both stock sensors and since I repaired the harness and re installed the stock sensors the Rear left code is now gone- still reading open or short at right rear.

I tried a brand new “none cheapo” sensor on the right side and it still said open short on the scanner. With my meter I’m reading around 10V so to me I think the harness is okay.

May this point though I’m thinking of returning the brand new sensor and just trying a new harness. I suspect maybe my repair job is not good enough even though I am getting voltage.
Does this sound like the next logical step? I am getting proper voltage at the four pin plug that the harness connects to.

 

This is thinking pretty far outside the box, but can you unclip the harness and swap sides with it? Plug the right harness into the left sensor and the left harness into the right sensor. If the code indicates a left sensor problem, then you know it's the harness. Also, the right front and right rear sensors are the same. If you decide to swap sensors, just be sure you don't bust off the sensor. When I broke both of my front sensors due to rust, I bought the ~$80 each sensors from Rock Auto instead of the $200 each OEM sensors.

 

Where else by Tacoma World would one even hope to find this kind of expertise and assistance? Many thanks to @Muddinfun for taking the time to contribute stuff like this!

 

Thank you.

 

What he said! I really appreciate the damn near instant help here. So for the first time I jacked it up and put it in gear to see what happens. My speedo is now working but all the lights are still on.

So on the bright side my main concern was the speedo. I had planned to disengage the traction control and abs after I had all this fixed anyway since the traction control tries to kill me on some corners.

So my speedo is back but I have my brake light, and, and traction control lights still on.
The obd 2 scanner still reads open or short in the right side rear. It has read that with both my stock sensor- the cheap Amazon on- and the 200 dollar Napa one I tried today. Hmmmmmm

-edit- also the idea to switch the harness sides left to right was a glorious suggestion and helped me confirm the harness is okay. After switching sides the scanner still said right rear open or short. I’m making progress thank you very much.

 

Not sure how the speedo doesn't work and now works, but with it running in gear with the back wheels spinning and the front wheels stationary, you are definitely going to get dash lights because it thinks the front sensors aren't working. Also, with ABS codes, after you make a repair, you need to either drive it for awhile or clear the codes to get the light to go out.

 

I just saw your edit. Now, I've got nothing. Pretty strange.

 

What happened is as I was trouble shooting things I never took it for a drive so after the harness repair and me checking the scanner and finding the right rear still showing open or short, I wasn’t able to see if the speedo was working since I didn’t drive it or jack it up and spin the tires. So I’m guessing that once I repaired the break in the harness it brought back my speedo.

I still can’t figure out why the scanner is reading right rear failure since the harness has continuity now and I have tried three different abs sensors on the right side.

so currently I have my speedo back. Which is great! I hate abs and traction control but I need to know why those lights are still on and I hope to fix that problem before I install the traction control kill switch.

speedo currently works- but abs, traction control, and brake lights are still on.

does anyone have any suggestions on where to proceed?

 

Did you ever figure this out? I’m getting the same after replacing a wheel bearing. We tired a new sensor another truck but still getting right rear.

 

Rear left hand speed sensor went this time. Where are people ordering sensors from?

Code is C1408

Current

Open or Short in Rear

Speed Sensor LH Circuit

 

It ended up being the harness that failed. Replaced it and solved the issue. Now I’m having rear left sensor code come up several years later.

 

@nudavinci64 what did you do to fix it? I am getting C1407 (rear passenger sensor open). I haven't checked the voltages but I checked connectivity and they were fine (same for all 4 corners). I am about to change the wheel bearing blindly hoping that will fix it but just wondering what you did to fix yours because you said chaging wheel bearing didn't fix yours?

3rd gen Taco with barely 15k miles. Dealer won't look at it because it's lifted.

 

Changing the wheel bearing will not fix that code, it is a circuit code.

It can only be a wiring issue (open or short) or a bad sensor.

Have you checked the wires at Connector S22 above the rear axle? I know that was a common spot on 2nd gens for the ABS wires to be broken/corroded.

 

I think I see some posts here in TW that said ultimately changing the wheel bearing did resolve the issue. Quoting one of them below.

Anyway as for checking connection, I haven't checked the S22 yet, but I checked all 4 connections that connect to the sensors. By that I mean, I checked the ohm at the harness ends going into the ECU on all 4 corners, the looks good with 150k ohms. I also checked the ohms on the 4 sensors and they showed up as 0.35M ohms. That said, I haven't checked the voltage (respective to ground on frame) and also the direct continuity check on each line from S1 to the harness ends. Those are in my list of TODOs.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ke-override-malfunction.774552/#post-28359165

 

I could see a bearing fixing a no signal or erratic signal issue but not a circuit issue.
If you read the code set criteria it can't be anything but a circuit problem or bad sensor.