Need help- stripped threads on rear shock

i just replaced my rear shocks, 5100's with about 60,000 miles on them. Bought new ome nitrochargers. One side went on easy, no issues at all. The other side either came f$&ked up or I f$&ked it up, don't know how I managed it but the threads up top are stripped and I can't tighten it nearly as much as the other side. It's not unsafe (I don't think, at least), the nut is fully threaded but it won't tighten nearly as far as the other side.

So my question is, do I leave it? Try to some how repair the threads? Suck it up and buy a brand new shock? Can you even buy a single ome rear? Suggestions welcome...

 

you either need a thread file or a die to clean the threads up. where are you located and do you know what size the thread is?

 

I'm in Foxboro , no idea what the thread size is. Maybe somebody who has an old man emu setup can chime in? Do the universal type thread repair tools work? I found a craftsman for about $30 that claims to repair stripped male threads.

 

i think you need to figure out if the threads are metric or sae first. then decide what tool to buy. id think if it isnt tightened down all the way to crush the rubber grommets itll be making some noises before long since the shock must be floating in the mount

 

Will the nut come off?

If so, remove it and take it to a hardware store and figure out the size/thread pitch there by experimenting with bolts till you find one that fits.

Then get the proper die and chase the threads on the shock as fixer suggests.

 

Are you sure the shaft is not simply spinning?

 

Attempt to fix it before you ditch it. Those shocks costed a pretty penny I'm sure. So I would do everything I could to salvage the one in question before I call it quits and give up on it. Remove the old nut even if you booger up the threads, repair with the female thread repair tool and either get a new nut or use the old one if it's still in good condition. Take it easy and go slow with the repairs and make sure you lube up the threads before you begin with WD40, silicone spray, or something the provides a slick surface for the threads.

Make sure the shock body is not spinning as previously stated before you attempt all of this however. This I why I dislike shaft based shocks instead of eyelet based where a free bolt runs through. We are stuck with what we have short of going custom though, so it is what it is.

 

take it off, take a pic or two and post here..if you stripped the threads on the shaft, you are screwed, if on the nut, get a new nut and do a cleanup of the male threads on the shaft, then assemble to check thread engagement before reinstall...

this should be easy for you to do in a few minutes, without visual just how in the H do you expect a fix over the interwebs?

 

It's not loose, just not as tight as the other side.

I'll probably do this, my wife's away this weekend and I'm replacing the front forks of my motorcycle so if I take it apart I won't have a ride.h

Definitely not spinning.

Thanks for all the answers ( except maybe the last poster, guess I'll try taking a picture though). I found a nut the same size that threads on and off the good side with ease so I'm going to take your advice and go to the hardware store to figure out the size. Once I do that I'll figure out what thread repair tool I need and try to fix it.

I agree with you, this is a pretty stupid system. Sometimes I really miss my first gen. Why does toyota use this?

 

Do you have a picture of it as it stands? Might help as some are visual. I am unsure of OME products but I have seen oem products come with a oval nut that is meant to be a pain to be put on. Mainly to keep them from backing off.


Unless of course your nut has crossed threads.

 

The through shaft system (which I dislike as well) is not a Toyota thing. I've come across them on many marquees for decades. Usually there is a set of flats at the top of the shaft that you can hold it with (common is 5/16 open end) while setting the nut with a box wrench.

Why I have no clue, unless it's the typical 'it's cheaper' decision point.

 

Finally able to get to the hardware store, for anybody else with OME shocks it's a 10x1.25 locking nut. They didn't have any thread repair die larger than 7mm so looks like it's the internet for me. Would this work:

M10 x 1.25 Split Die Thread Chaser

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003H1WFDY/ref=gno_cart_title_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2RO2HPYYAK7JI

Here's 2 pictures of the good side, the other side is tightened down to just below the flat area:

 

The tool you posted looks like it would work. We could be of more assistance if you could photo the damaged side though. Will the nut come off easily enough to give us a clear shot of the threads?

It's possible you'll find the shaft threads ok and the nut buggered, assuming the shaft is a harder material. If you got that lucky, a new nut might be all you need. But you won't know till you get it apart.

If the threads on the shaft look ok, then try the 'bad' nut on the other side, finger only, and see if it binds. That should confirm it's the nut thread.

 

It's definitely both the post and the nut that got screwed up. I have no idea what the f&&% I did to strip it, the other side went on so easy I never thought it would be a problem. Once I get the thread repair die I'll post a before and after picture, hopefully this will help somebody else some day.

 

A picture is worth a thousand words, especially if it is the right picture...seeing the one that is right does not show the problem, wondering still what the other side really looks like...

 

2 pics of the good side, none of the bad side...???