Need help putting rear access cab door panels back on

Yes, I feel stupid. But in my defense I've never claimed to be an automotive buff. I figured it should be easy to upgrade the speakers in my 2019 Sport but have tried for a couple of hours to get that damn rear panel back on with no success.

Broke several of those plastic tabs also but still can't get the left side of the panel to sit flush when all other sides seem perfect. It isn't the seat belt in the way, and I can't see anything that is binding, I just can't make something fit. And it's frustrating. I should have remembered how much I hate doing this stuff because nothing is ever easy for me.

Anyway, any hints or tips/tricks would be gratefully appreciated. Until then I will be driving around with two rear panels in the back I guess...but at least the music sounds much better now!

 

Not sure which part isn't flush without a picture, but the upper door grab (by the window) needs to be picked up and dropped back down to make everything fit into place. Also, you'll need some of these to replace those door tabs:

$9 Rexka 30pcs Door Trim Panel Retainers Clips Compatible with Lexus Toyota 90467-A0005 Camry, FJ Cruiser, High Lander, RAV4, 4-Runner ES 350, GX 470, is 250, is 350, is F, LS 460 & LS 600HL

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D6KSFQS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Thank you! I'll try that this weekend and report back, got some of those on order now...

I noticed on the left edge as you're facing the passenger access door there are 90 degree fingers all down the side but I can't see anything to hook them under, wondering if they simply just go under the rubber strip down the side?

 

OP, I fought with this too when I did my AC rear speakers. Those door panels use these red clips:

$12 Rexka 20pcs Upper Quarter Trim Lower Overhead Console Clip Red Nylon 90467-09240 for Toyota Lexus Tacoma Camry C-HR Prius

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R1QTSQ1?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There are several key tricks to getting those AC panels back on: Lining up the upper adjustable seatbelt bolt with the adjustment button on the plastic panel, making sure those plastic fingers on the middle left of the panel are hooked around the sheet metal before pushing the panel clips in (the one by the door handle has to be eased around the door handle as it catches easily--this seems like what may be keeping your panel from being flush), noting the hooks on the bottom of the panel and the holes they go in, and then snapping in the clips from the top down.

I fought with mine an hour before I saw this post: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2016-access-cab-rear-door-panel-removal.433834/#post-12561348

Once I saw that post and started at the top popping in the clips, it was much faster. The second door was a breeze once I learned these tricks. FYI the FSM leaves out these details too.

 

So thanks to these posts I was able to get the panels back on properly. Several things I noticed:
The seat belt height adjuster has a slider and a "ledge" that must fit ON TOP of the finger button in the slider mechanism, I had allowed the slider window to drop and thus that ledge was below the finger and prevented the slider from moving up and down. Still need to go back and fix that on the passenger access cab door. The other thing of note is a vey little tab that must go BEHIND the door handle unit, not in front, otherwise the handle will not open the door properly. When you push on the panel to insert the plastic snaps into the metal door you need to use your finger or a slim tool (plastic interior panel tools are perfect for this) to keep that tab behind the door handle unit. When both of these things were done, the panel went on easily and all buttons snapped in without a problem.

 

Glad to hear you got it sorted bud! Sorry I wasn't of more help, I forgot everything aside from the upper clip headache. Since you're doing some audio work, you may want to read up on removing the center console, as it makes a great place to stuff some amps. Also, there's an inverter sitting up by the shifter, so you can patch in to run a 400w outlet inside of your truck, if you wanted to do so (some people on here makes kits to do this).

 

I found that even the factory assemblers didn't do things perfectly, and I hesitate to remove the center console again. There are two up-turned fingers (shaped like a "J" on its back) on each side of the console and they slide into corresponding slots in the plastic in front of them to hook both console pieces together. On the passenger side the factory had just jammed the pieces together which fatally bent one of the pins on that side, making it useless. I did a semi-repair by wrapping electrical tape around it enough to keep the hook part of the "J" sticking out enough to engage the slot on the other piece of console plastic, but that was just some assembler rushing to get my truck put together. Sadly there is no way to prove I didn't do it, and not worth me buying a whole new console unit. Oh well.

 

That sucks! It's always a big risk disassembling stuff, knowing you could mess it up, but it's be even worse to see something broke from the factory with no way to contest it. If I were you, I would still try to box with the dealership though. You never know, they may concede.