My 2JZ Taco Build

So I redid the leakdown and this time I could hear air getting past the valves on the suspect cylinders and number 1 was actually sealing pretty good.

So seems I need to get some valve work done on this head and the bottom end and rings might be fine. Gonna get it back to the machine shop and see if I can get these valves sealing better and try again. Good news is it might save a bunch of time if it's just the valves.

 

You don't think you just need to grind them?

 

Well this seems neat.



@Wulf you two should be thriends

 

OP I am digging the truck and the plan. How do you plan on keeping the truck emissions compliant and registered with the swap?

I have a 1UZ I'm contemplating for my Tacoma but the fact that it is OBD1 means it would be easy to wire up but not emissions compliant unfortunately

 

Yeah they need to be ground but I think the machine shop will do a better job than what I can do here, and I want it to seal up the first time.

Thanks, what is this emissions compliant thing you speak of??

I am not 100%, but It used to be if the car is like older than 10 years and they cannot communicate with the ecu, they just throw it on the rollers and if it passes it can pass overall.
You made me check again and now the website is saing something different so I am not positive anymore how that will work out.
You may want to double check, worst case I can use an IS300 obd2 ecu with the vvti head or a supra obd2 ecu with the non-vvti head which I have been debating actually.

When my audi had a bunch of lights on and issues with the ecu they still put it on the rollers. Maybe that has changed though in the last 2 years, will ask next time I go.

The easiest would be to use the non vvti cylinder head, and use a USDM 2jzgte ecu which has obd2. But I was trying to keep vvti for the extra bit off the line.
I have both cylinder heads sitting here, so I could do either really at this point. Will probably decide over the weekend and drop it off next week.

They do have 1uz non vvti ecus that are obd2 (96-97 sc400/ls400/gs400), and also 1uz vvti ecu's that are obd2.
There are bits of wiring differences, like early 1uz harnesses up to 94 or something had injectors paired off for batch fire, and later they moved on to sequential injection. all the obd2 stuff 96+ will be sequential injection so make sure your harness has the injectors separated out, and isn't an early harness.

The various ecu's might have slightly different redlines, harness setups as mentioned, but it is possible with the right harness, ecu, and crank and cam setup.

 

If you are willing to do some searching i believe there is an OBD2 VVTI ECU that was available on the later JDM Supras and Aristos that does not have an immobilizer. I am currently working on a similar swap The ECU i have is for an MT though i am not sure if it has an immobilizer circuit or not. i know my ECU is not USDM though at the moment i cant remember what its out of.

 

As far as I know none of the JDM ecu's have obd2. they use a standard like JOBD or something that is not the same unless that changed with vvti or something.
Generally the JDM ecu's will turn on and off the check engine light, but just wont connect to an obd2 scanner correctly.

You can use an is300 vvti ecu or a 98+ sc300 ecu that is obd2 and vvti, but they are non turbo and they all have immobilizers I think.
So you need the extra grey plug, the key, and the key pickup ring and also the amplifier to get one of those ecu's to work, which is quite a bit of stuff.

I have an Aristo vvti ecu that is automatic and has no immobilizer. you can only get a manual transmission one from a supra I think, and usually harder to get a hold of one of those.
I have used an auto aristo ecu before with a manual, and it generally works fine but has a slightly lower redline and sometimes the ecu thinks its shifting.
You generally want the one with no immobilizer, if you look at the ecu plugs there will be a grey plug off by itself on the right side, which is the immobilizer plug.
On ecu's that do not have the immobilizer, the ecu will not have that plug and will just be regular metal case there. That is how I tell for the most part.

like this one has no immobilizer


and this one has the grey plug so it has an immobilizer.

 

So the ECU i have does not have the 6th plug for the immobilizer so i dont think it does but i am not sure how to verify.

In the background of the photos you can see the cannon plug i am looking at using to get the harness thru the firewall.

What are you looking to do about a harness? Have you decided yet?

 

So it looks like you have the 02+ IS300 type ecu which has different plugs than mine.
The 01 IS300 used the same ecu plug as the JDM 2jzgte vvti cars, but the 01 IS300 ecu has a built in immobilizer.

In 02+, the IS300 went to a ecu which had a seperate immobilizer box somewhere under the dash (I think), so the ecu has different plugs and stuff and harness is different a little.
I actually don't know too much more than that about the 02+ IS300 harness and ecu, but I think you need to use that 02+IS300 harness or swap ecu plugs if you have the other kind.

Are you running a turbo? cause that is a non-turbo ecu in your picture.

I was planning to use a 98+ sc300 vvti harness which plugs into the JDM 2jzgte ecu (same as 01 IS300 ecu plug) and runs all the way into the cab.
I am actually thinking I will go ahead and put the non vvti cylinder head on now as I will have more options with emissions etc.. I don't want to deal with the immobilizer stuff if I have to use a US ecu.
after I have it working and stuff, I may go vvti down the line but that is the current plan.

I took the head off to clean up the valves, so will give that one last shot and see what leakdown numbers I am getting after that.
IF this engine gives me any more trouble though, I will junk it and get a 1uzfe to drop in there instead.

 

Yes this ECU's pin outs are different than most of what i could find thru google so i broke down and bought a OEM Electrical wiring diagram book for an 03 GS300 (Pub No. EWD505U for anyone wanting ref.) it has helped immensely for figuring out whats going where. I am in the process currently at laying out and building a harness for my particular setup. At the moment no i do not have a turbo set up, my goal is to get the motor in the frame and get the bugs worked out since i know the motor runs strong (drove it before i pulled it) then later come back and freshen up the motor with studs, rings, bearings and all the good stuff while putting on the turbo and at that time i will likely go to an aftermarket ECU.

What are you looking at doing for a clutch set up? Stock flywheels are just as expensive and some aftermarket light weight units and in my case I am looking to eventually run 35-37's which will be hell on a light weight flywheel, i am not sure stock will have enough mass for the tires.

 

Yeah I didn't want to actually build the whole harness, I like to just reuse the toyota engine harness and repin the body connectors by the ecu for the dash harness, so maybe like 10-20 wires is all I have to sort out.

You seem to be doing it the hard way, because that 02+ ecu is not turbo, and there isn't a turbo ecu that plugs right into it like the 01 type I am using.
So when you go standalone, you will have to build a jumper harness also, unless there is a patch harness for 02+ is300.
We might be getting a little off track here on wiring, so maybe PM me and we can talk about the wiring details, I am pretty sure we are boring everyone lol.

I think the stock R154 flywheel will be fine for 33's and probably even 35's.
Just make sure to get a grippy clutch and pp setup.
I wouldn't go with the light weight one with 35's.

I will be starting it off as a non vvti build I decided, so I am actually going to throw my 94 supra harness on the engine and wire up the coilpacks and body plugs. I have an aem ems that plugs right into the non vvti harness, and for emissions probably going to use a 96-98 usdm 2jzgte ecu.

So I decided to see how the rings are the old fashioned way, put some oil in each cylinder last night and am keeping an eye on it.
As of this morning, doesn't look like any has leaked out but will be checking it over the weekend while I slowly clean up all the valves and hopefully get this thing sorted out soon.
IT seems to me like my issues have just been with the head/valves. If the block is in good shape then I can still get this build back on track.

 

So I did manage to get the clutch pedal installed, so there is that I guess
And yes... I did rip the carpet out

 

Will a 3.4 flywheel fit? I think it's lce who makes heavier ones.

 

I got curious about the same thing so i bought a Rockauto 3.4L stocker for $30 to just try it. So far what i have found is that the pilot bearing opening is the same and although the bolt holes appear to to line up perfectly there is a 3mm difference in bolt circle diameter. Meaning that the bolt can not catch threads even though they appear to line up. Additionally the starter gear teeth for the 3.4 are too large in diameter to accommodate the 2JZ starter. The flywheel puts the outer dia. of the starter teeth on the starter center line.

Both of these issues can be fixed with some machining and re balancing though it would be a custom job that would need to be redone every time the flywheel has to be replaced.

 

I would just use one of the 2jz flywheels.
The 2jzge w58 flywheel will have the right PP bolt pattern for a push type clutch.
The 1jz R154 flywheel will have the right PP bolt pattern for a pull type clutch that is unique to the R154/r154 bellhousing.

If you are using the R154 bellhousing on your 96+ R150f (with the long input shaft), you can use all the R154 parts including flywheel , pull type clutch setup, fork, throw out bearing, slave cylinder etc..

You can also convert to a push type clutch (like the r150/w58 normally uses), but you need a different throw out bearing setup as the R154 is setup for a pull type, so its facing the wrong way.
You can use an adapter to install a hydraulic throw out bearing and use a push type clutch setup (w58 flywheel and clutch), and this is kind of how the GM versions of the R154 in the solstice/sky work and also how LS transmissions work (without an adapter of course).
They also have an aftermarket bellhousing for an r150 to a 2jz that uses a regular push type clutch and clutch fork, which is how a r150 is stock... but its for a short shaft r150f so pre 96 and transfer case would drop the wrong side for us.

There are so many ways to do it but you do need to keep track of what length input shaft you are using, what bellhousing you are using (for long or short shaft), and then the pull vs push setups will use different flywheels.

Usually people use all the R154 stuff with a 96+ R150f, and use the pull type r154 clutch, flywheel, bellhousing, throw out bearing, etc... but that is not the only way to do it.
Some say the pull type setup will hold more power and it came that way on a 1jz so its a bolt on and go affair which is nice but parts are less available and more expensice.

If you are looking for off the shelf parts and especially dual or tripple disc setups, they are usually of the push variety so if you know you want a dual disc look into a custom setup.
IF you get all the r154 stuff and then a push alteration kit (os giken etc..), you will be in a bunch of $$ and it might not be as good as a custom hydraulic bearing setup.

 

I have both a long and short input shaft R150 i could use currently the truck is running a R150F with a short input shaft swapped into it backing the 3RZ using a 2TR bell housing. but the donor trans and long input shaft are sitting ready for mock up with the 2J and second frame that is currently under the knife to move the front suspension forward 1". I have the idea in my mind to run the long input shaft with a short bellhousing to retain truck slave cyl and a push style clutch. However to do this i will either need to buy or fab a 30mm spacer to install between the bellhousing and the front case. then behind that i have been thinking about a doubler crawl box. this would allow me to use either tail housing (pre or post 96) and then just mate the taco transfer case behind it.

I am wanting to run this to push more of the weight towards the back end of the truck to try to balance out some of the weight gain the truck will experience by this. ( i already have a bull bar up front and like the stance with the TRD tundra springs on bilstein 5100 setup)

Luckily i have a second frame to do all this modification and fab work on while its exposed and not buried under the cab.

 

So the doubler will bolt to both patterns? That's good to know.

That could work with the spacer but I don't think those are easy to find or make.
I was thinking about doing a push setup with the longer r154 bell housing in the long shaft r150f and use the hydraulic throw out bearing from a solstice trans and use the solstice front bearing retainer plate. Those should swap right onto the r150f and no clutch fork needed, just run the lines maybe have to shim. I figure this could work because the solstice trans is an R series box with the long input shaft which is a hair longer than a r154 input shaft. I haven't tried it but was thinking about it just to have the simpler push setup.

So either one of those or just use all the r154 pull stuff. It can be pricier and has less options but does work.

I am actually thinking about getting a short shaft R155f so I can use one of the newer gen transfer cases like the hybrid FJ full time case I put together.
You could also use a FJ auto case and that would be part time like normal and have a manual lever. Apparently the bolt pattern on the newer transfer cases is wider than the r150f 96+ on several bolts which I didn't know before.

 

Na, use a AR-5. I usually don't give away transmission info but here you go:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/build-threads/704838-2jzgte-rebuild.html
http://www.supramania.com/forum/threads/ar5-trans-take-two-the-solstice-solution.25024/

 

If you don't mind the truck 3rd vs the car 3rd, the H3 version has carbon synchros.

 

If you're doing 4WD the output shaft is 27, so can't use Toyota t-case but will open you up to all the GM t-cases